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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Mounting of Fishfinder on top of Console?
|Author||Topic: Mounting of Fishfinder on top of Console?|
posted 06-15-2002 09:12 AM ET (US)
[I have edited this text to remove extended characters that are not properly included in ASCII text and are not properly reproduced on NON-Microsoft systems--the goal of the web is platform independent communication, a feature that was carefully included by the architects of hypertext and HTML, and I will resist all attempts by Bill Gates to bawlderize the content of the web so that it only works if you send him money--jimh.]
I purchased a Raytheon 356 Fish Finder but now realize that the power and transducer connections to the monitor require drilling holes in the console top. I assumed that these wires would come up under the mounting platform but it does not appear to be designed that way. This is not the case, the two wires with plug attachments are meant to attach to the back of the fish finder and seem to require separate holes in the console.
As the ends of the two wires have [1/2-inch] diameter size plugs, which attach to the fish finder, this leaves significant holes in the top of the console. Before I drill such large holes in the top of my console I would like to have a way to prevent water from entering the holes since they will be much larger in diameter than the wires. Since the transducer is attached to one end and a large plug attachment to the other I see no choice but to drill a larger hole. Any ideas how to avoid to avoid this problem or how to best fill the holes so water will not leak in when it rains etc?
posted 06-15-2002 09:40 AM ET (US)
[This post reflects the fact that the character originally included, created for the poster by an "automatic" feature of Microsoft WORD, is unreadble by non-Microsoft operating systems.]
I don't have a handle on how big the connector diameter is because in the post above the author used an extended character set glyph to represent the diameter. And it was probably not intentional.
The author probably typed something like 3/4, using the separate characters 3, /, and 4, and then the operating system or program he was running thought it would help him out be transforming this to an extended character set representation it knew about, producing what appears above as " * ".
Actually, I don't know what you are seeing right now for the character " * " because on my operating system it appears in two ways. As I am typing this it appears as the extended character greek letter capital OMEGA, but when rendered in the browser as HTML is appears as the normal character ASTERISK.
It may actually show up as intended by the author if viewed by a browser what contains similar character sets.
I mention all this because it is a really bad (not to mention annyoing) habit for certain software companies to allow things like this to automatically happen, without informing the user that this is being done for him.
In this case it has removed a crucial piece of information from the content of a message, rendering the message significantly less comprehensible.
Now I will ask the author to please repost the portion of the message and refer to the diameter in some way so that his software will not convert his message into something undecipherable.
For example, if you cannot turn off this dumb feature of transforming fractions into extended character set equivalents, then just type the fraction in words, like "three-quarters of an inch."
Once we get this data, we will be able to comprehend the problem better.
posted 06-15-2002 09:46 AM ET (US)
Blue Sea Systems makes just what you need. They are called cable clams and come in three different sizes.
They allow you to drill only one hole and give you a waterproof seal.
I used one when mounting my fishfinder on the Montauk.
I'll scan the catalog page and e-mail it to you.
posted 06-15-2002 10:32 AM ET (US)
Buy a NavPod unit - the fish finder will mount neatly in the face, the wires will be hidden inside the pod and the whole unit is firmly scrwed to the console to deter theft.
posted 06-15-2002 11:11 AM ET (US)
John - on my 17 OR, I did not drill any holes in the console - I brought the transducer cable under the gunwale, down to the floor across the floor (~ 1 - 1 1/2 feet), up the side of the console and slide the cable between the windshield and console. All cable is secured with 3M white plastic tape and the traverse across the floor is covered by a rubber threshold. The power cord is a separate cord (stored in the instrument storage compartment) with a cigarette plug on one end. I mounted two cigarette female plugs on the lower half of the instrument panel. This works fine and without drilling any holes in the console. ----- Jerry/Idaho
posted 06-15-2002 12:19 PM ET (US)
Webmaster: I'm sorry for the frustration. I typed one half inch. Using the numeric key pad for the numerals and the forward slash key. I use ms word via office 2000 then cut and pasted into the web form. Sorry for the frustration. Perhaps the standard should be to write out numerals. On the other hand it appears as I typed it when I read my post online.
posted 06-15-2002 12:23 PM ET (US)
Well, thank you for the replies. Since the fish finder is already mounted I think my best bet will be to find the cable clams or perhaps to bring the wire up along side the console and use the 3m tape.
|Tom W Clark||
posted 06-15-2002 12:48 PM ET (US)
There are any number of ways to deal with this situation. Several manufacturers make special pieces of hardware for sealing the passage of cables through surfaces like the Blue Seas Cable Clams that Dick mentions.
On my Whalers I choose an easier, less expensive, and I think nicer looking approach. I just used a small chrome plated Perko "clam shell ventilator" (Perko part # 315DP1CHR). Even with holes as large as 1" the small clam shell would cover this hole and also lay the cable or wires down and direct them in the desired direction. The opening in the end of the clam shell is maybe 1/4 tall so it's already substantially blocked off.
On my Montauks and the Outrage I didn't worry about sealing this small opening up because the console is far from water tight anyway and I never left the boat uncovered when not in use. But you could fill the opening with clear silicone to make it water tight.
Another way to use a clam shell and make it rain tight is to run the wires or cable over the edge on the console and drill your hole in the side of the console. Install the clam shell with the opening facing down. Route the wires or cable down and then back up to fit into the clam shell. This creates what is known as a “drip loop” and is a very important and effective means of keeping water out.
You should be able to pass both of your cables through a 1” hole and cap the hole with a small clam shell. If you choose to use a through deck fitting you will end up having to use two of them with two separate holes. I think a single hole with a clam shell will look a hell of a lot better. A single clam shell will cost $2 -$4 while a pair Blue Sea Systems cable clams will cost $33 - $44.
posted 06-15-2002 01:27 PM ET (US)
John, I faced the same dilema 2 years ago when mounting the fishfinder to my new Montauk console. I just couldn't bring myself to drill a large hole to route the power and x-ducer cable.
Since I was mounting the locator on the starboard side, I drilled a one inch hole at the top inside of the fire extinguisher pocket and covered the hole with a Big Jon wire cap. I routed the cables in the gap between console and the windshield.
posted 06-15-2002 02:41 PM ET (US)
Connectors that are only 1/2-inch diameter don't seem very large to me. You can pass them through a hole, one at a time, that is only slightly larger, assuming the cable associated with them is not 1/2-inch in diameter, too.
A 5/8-inch hole would seem to be plenty, if you can squeeze the second connector through with the first cable in place already.
I have a hole like this, covered by a clamshell as others noted, and cables for the VHF radio (antenna and power) the GPS (antenna and power) and the SONAR (transducer and power) all pass through it. You cannot send them all through at once, and some only have a connector on one end so I could thread the pigtail end through, but they all fit.
posted 06-15-2002 03:35 PM ET (US)
I went ahead and drilled the 1/2' hole in my console and used a rubber bushing (from an automobile anti-sway bar connector bolt bushing) to fill the hole (need to cut it longitudinally to get the cables in the center hole)... This required a bit of force to push the rubber into the hole flush with the console deck (holds itself there real well)... This method leaves just a very little area for any water to get in around the cables (you could use a silicon sealer if desired)... I then got one of the RAM ball mounts mounted just in front of the now bushed hole and it looks and functions very well... I really like the postitioning options the ball mounts provide... Here's a link to what I'm referring to: Hyperlink
posted 06-15-2002 08:59 PM ET (US)
posted 06-16-2002 03:04 AM ET (US)
Jim - any interference problems between the VHF and the sonar? I've been advised to keep the cables as far apart as possible.
posted 06-16-2002 07:10 AM ET (US)
Re SONAR and VHF interference:
Tightly bundling the cables together for long runs might increase the potential for interference, but just passing them through the same hole in the console is probably not going to create a problem.
posted 06-16-2002 10:02 PM ET (US)
What if the tranducer cable is going through the same channel from the stern to the console an battery and other cabling. I have a new 2002 Montauk and need to mount a transducer, therefore leaving me the task of routing the cable through this channel. Will this be problem with interference ?
posted 06-17-2002 08:12 AM ET (US)
My 2002 Montauk has a Garmin 182 GPS Map Sonar mounted on the console and the transom mounted transducer wire goes through the bundle with no problems. I mounted the transducer below the starboard scupper hole which is a handy place for the wire to run as the bundle is just inside the scupper. I didn't use any wire hold-downs on the transome itself so it is a clean and easy installation.
I very much recommend the Garmion 182, btw.
posted 06-17-2002 09:12 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the info. I was wondering how I was going to get the cabling to the port side without hold-downs, which I hear is the preferable side. From what you are saying, locating the transducer on the starboard side of engine is no problem and makes the cabling easier, console to channel with rest of bundle, out from the transom end of bundle, to scupper and to the mount....
posted 06-17-2002 12:03 PM ET (US)
I agree with the solution to not drill the console, but run the wires between the windshield and console from the outside. In addition, I solved the locator/radio attachment problem by affixing two fairly large suction cups to the bottom of the mounting brackets for the locator and radio, I just wet the cups a little, stick 'em on where I want on the console, and when I'm done, they pop off and store...
No holes, no problem....
posted 06-17-2002 04:24 PM ET (US)
On both of my Outrage consoles, I have been using DGP's method for years now. I have no holes in the top of the console (see photo on Cetacea Page 2). I think drilling a hole in the TOP of the recessed Fire Extinguisher box, and tucking the wires under the plexiglass windshield looks just fine.
posted 06-17-2002 06:28 PM ET (US)
AnthonyT: I myself posed the same question a couple of days ago. I've had numerous good answers - the link is titled "glueing vs. screwing transducer...
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