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Author Topic:   Mahogany replacement
OutrageMan posted 06-15-2002 01:02 PM ET (US)   Profile for OutrageMan   Send Email to OutrageMan  
I recently picked up the latest issue of Wood Magazine, and one of the articles is about a replacement for Mahogany. I thought it might be of interest to many here with "wooden" Whalers.

The wood in question is called Lyptus. It is actually a hybrid developed by Weyerhaeuser. It is a cross of Eucalyptus grandis and Eucalyptus urophylla.

The pictures of the wood do look very much like Mahogany.

It is less per b/f @ about $4 vs. $5+ b/f for mahogany. The article states that currently it is only available S4S 4/4 & 5/4 random lenghts and widths.

You can special order it from any lumber retailer carrying Weyerhaeuser products.

There is not yet any veneered plywood available.

Brian

Tom W Clark posted 06-15-2002 01:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Brian,

If it comes random widths, how the heck can it be S4S?

Whaler Proud posted 06-15-2002 01:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whaler Proud  Send Email to Whaler Proud     
Brian:

Do you have a link that may have pictures?

whalernut posted 06-15-2002 01:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalernut  Send Email to whalernut     
I am curious as to it`s resistance to moisture, how it holds a varnish finish, it`s flexability(Mahogany is strong) and how it warps or lack of warping when damp??? Alot of questions here, but before I would jump ship for $1 b/f, which isn`t much, I would want to know the pros and cons of both and compare them side by side, maybee this hybrid is awsome or a real dog?? Jack.
OutrageMan posted 06-15-2002 08:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for OutrageMan  Send Email to OutrageMan     
Tom...good point. The srticle clearly says S4S random widths and lengths. I guess I was so busy requrigitating the artice I did not notice its error.

Whalernut...it is my belief that Eucalyptus has very good water resistance. As far as warping and cupping, most can be avioded with good machining practices, although if a board is going to move there isn't too much you can do about it, except give it room.

Brian

vtwhaler1 posted 06-15-2002 10:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for vtwhaler1  Send Email to vtwhaler1     
S4S refers to wood surfaces machined (planed). "S4S" represents "surfaced four sides". Other designations are "S1S2E" (surfaced one side and two edges) and "rough" (rough sawn all around).

So, random width lumber can be S4S.

That is the lesson for today, class dismissed.

OutrageMan posted 06-16-2002 08:14 AM ET (US)     Profile for OutrageMan  Send Email to OutrageMan     
Thanks for holding class on the definition of S4S.

It has been my experience that S4S lumber is sold as dimentional such as 1x6 or 2x4. When I go to my hardwood supplier, that is what I see. Random width is sold S2S or rough.

I find it hard to imagine that the mill has some guy sitting at the table saw resetting the fence for every board so that they can have random widths, and then passing the board to some guy at the jointer. It seems to me that the lumber would be much more than $4/bf.

But then again, what do I, a lowly furniture maker know. So when you hold another class, let me know.

Brian

Einar posted 06-16-2002 02:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for Einar  Send Email to Einar     
Check it out at www.lyptus.com.br . It seems to me to be marketed as an eco-friendly substitute for a variety of hardwood lumber including Genuine Mahogany. The best applications are interior products such as cabinetry and furniture. As with so many plantation woods it will lack the decay and moisture resistence found in the original.
Outrage Man - I agree with your understanding of s4s. While you can order hardwood lumber dressed out just about any way you can imagine (bring your VISA), the most common are rough, hit and miss (sized 4/4 blanked to 15/16" for example) s2s , and s3s (surfaced 2 sides and straight lined 1 edge). s1s2e is usually associated with softwood lumber where the rough face is the graded side and is usually exposed. This is very common in cedar in the northwest.

Al

Whaler Proud posted 06-16-2002 08:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whaler Proud  Send Email to Whaler Proud     
Here is a very good link for Lyptus:

http://www.wzinternational.com/lyptuswood.htm

Go to the home page for this site and they have a large number of topics you choose from for just about anything to do with wood.

Whaler Proud posted 06-16-2002 08:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whaler Proud  Send Email to Whaler Proud     
Sorry: Try this.

http://www.wzinternational.com/lyptuswood.html

OutrageMan posted 06-16-2002 11:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for OutrageMan  Send Email to OutrageMan     
Or even better...

http://www.wzinternational.com/lyptuswood.html

Brian

vtwhaler1 posted 06-17-2002 10:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for vtwhaler1  Send Email to vtwhaler1     
OutrageMan-

I have been lurking on this site for 4 weeks, after I aquired a '67 13 foot Sport. This site has been incredibly informative and an outstanding resource for restoring a whaler. My previous post was to contribute some info. to the site, as it is related to what I do for a profession.

The "class" thing was an unsuccesful attempt at humor after a long hard day. Re-reading it I can see the post looks like it may have been written by a smartass.

I apologize if I offended you, it was not my intention.

-Rick

browning20ga posted 06-17-2002 11:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for browning20ga  Send Email to browning20ga     
Welcome vtwhaler1, No offence taken here, thanks for the info and goodluck with your 13'er.
Darrell
OutrageMan posted 06-18-2002 06:45 AM ET (US)     Profile for OutrageMan  Send Email to OutrageMan     
That is one of the tricky things about the internet. Sometimes without the benefit of hearing the interaction, things can be taken wrong.

No worries...

Brian

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