Swingback seat construction - seems easy and cheap

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Author Topic:   Swingback seat construction - seems easy and cheap

whalerjake posted 06-28-2002 03:00 PM ET (US)
Call me crazy but I'm thinking of building a original design swingback bench seat for my Whaler. The boat came with just the bottom brackets.
I could use marine ply for the bench and have it padded and covered. I could have a local railing fabricator make the stainless bars. The back portion could be made out of teak.
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/cetacea/cetaceaPage37.html
I'm not sure of cost but it must be less expensive than buying one somewhere.
Am I nuts? Has anyone done this before?
dscew posted 06-28-2002 06:29 PM ET (US)
I don't think the stainless parts will be cheap; the rest of it should be pretty straightforward. If you need them to be measured, let me know, I'll measure mine for you.
Jerry Townsend posted 06-28-2002 07:01 PM ET (US)
Whaler* - I haven't built one - yet, but have given thought to modifying mine or building another one. The reason, I would like to incorporate an underseat storage locker, and leave room underneath for a couple of RubberMaid (or equal) storage boxes. The seat on my 17 OR can be modified without problems, but doing that, I see some other modifications I would want to make.
Welding one up would not be bad at all - providing you have welding equipment - which I have. The only part which would have to be worked out is the side 'guide' which serves to 'lock' the back rest into the forward or rear position. Mine is out of nylon or some other phenolic - but stainless would work too.
I am not sure if there were different sizes of these seats. If you can use the dimensions of mine - let me know. ------ Jerry/Idaho
Tom W Clark posted 07-01-2002 10:54 PM ET (US)
whalerjake,
If you have the legs of the Reversible Pilot Seat then you have the most difficult to procure parts. But this doesn't mean it will be cheap to build an RPS.
I suspect the stainless will be pricey to have fabricated. The Whaler stainless parts are really nice and well done. I would guess maybe $200 for the pair of these.
The seat you can order for $200 from Anderson, Hall's or Whaler Tim.
The Perko handles for the seat back will cost about $14 for the pair and then there's the rod holders you will have to fabricate. As an alternative you could just buy a pair of Lee's flush mount rod holders for about $110.
By the time you pay for stainless mounting hardware and shipping too, it all adds up. And people wonder why the classic RPS is so expensive (and why Whaler has deleted it on the cost cutting new boats).
seagull posted 07-02-2002 08:15 AM ET (US)
Made a modified version from scratch out of aluminum. Check out the pics at this link:
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/001750.html
whalerjake posted 07-02-2002 03:38 PM ET (US)
Nice job Seagull.
Thanks for the info Tom. My choice of material is unfortunately based on cost. You're right, I'm lucky I've got the bases.
Like Seagull I like the design of the original swingback but I'm not commited to making the seat exactly original.
Stainless steal is out based on cost. I'm going to try 3/4" copper with 90 degree elbows. The wood will still be teak just not as much. I'm going to have thick padding on each side similar to the older swingback seats. 3/4" ply will be used for the base and inside the seatback.
padrefigure posted 07-02-2002 08:21 PM ET (US)
Copper is a bad choice because it is soft and corrodes easily. The green patina will rub off on everything. If you are still determined to give this a try look for heavy gauge copper--it is rated as M or L (I forget which is the thick wall). You can clean the copper assembly and spray with clear laquer to try to slow down the corrosion process. Stainless is not all that expensive (approx $2.50 per foot for 7/8" tubing). It is the fabrication (cutting and welding) that is a pain. Find someone that can do these things and barter for assembly and you could come out at a reasonable cost.
whalerjake posted 07-03-2002 12:49 AM ET (US)
I soldered up the copper tonight. Took about 30 minutes to cut and put together etc... I'm surprised it's so sturdy. For $18 in copper I thought it was worth a try. If it doesn't work I'll go Steel. Padrefigure had a good idea to paint it with a clear coat. How about a brush on poly? Sand the hell out of it and brush on?
The seat back and seat base are ready to be covered with padding and fabric. I used maple for the seat back, 3/4" ply for the base. $20 + covering.
Naturally I'm bummed I can't afford stainless and teak etc... but I need to get on the water soon, the local fishing is starting to turn on.

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Author	Topic: Swingback seat construction - seems easy and cheap
whalerjake	posted 06-28-2002 03:00 PM ET (US) Call me crazy but I'm thinking of building a original design swingback bench seat for my Whaler. The boat came with just the bottom brackets. I could use marine ply for the bench and have it padded and covered. I could have a local railing fabricator make the stainless bars. The back portion could be made out of teak. http://continuouswave.com/whaler/cetacea/cetaceaPage37.html I'm not sure of cost but it must be less expensive than buying one somewhere. Am I nuts? Has anyone done this before?
dscew	posted 06-28-2002 06:29 PM ET (US) I don't think the stainless parts will be cheap; the rest of it should be pretty straightforward. If you need them to be measured, let me know, I'll measure mine for you.
Jerry Townsend	posted 06-28-2002 07:01 PM ET (US) Whaler* - I haven't built one - yet, but have given thought to modifying mine or building another one. The reason, I would like to incorporate an underseat storage locker, and leave room underneath for a couple of RubberMaid (or equal) storage boxes. The seat on my 17 OR can be modified without problems, but doing that, I see some other modifications I would want to make. Welding one up would not be bad at all - providing you have welding equipment - which I have. The only part which would have to be worked out is the side 'guide' which serves to 'lock' the back rest into the forward or rear position. Mine is out of nylon or some other phenolic - but stainless would work too. I am not sure if there were different sizes of these seats. If you can use the dimensions of mine - let me know. ------ Jerry/Idaho
Tom W Clark	posted 07-01-2002 10:54 PM ET (US) whalerjake, If you have the legs of the Reversible Pilot Seat then you have the most difficult to procure parts. But this doesn't mean it will be cheap to build an RPS. I suspect the stainless will be pricey to have fabricated. The Whaler stainless parts are really nice and well done. I would guess maybe $200 for the pair of these. The seat you can order for $200 from Anderson, Hall's or Whaler Tim. The Perko handles for the seat back will cost about $14 for the pair and then there's the rod holders you will have to fabricate. As an alternative you could just buy a pair of Lee's flush mount rod holders for about $110. By the time you pay for stainless mounting hardware and shipping too, it all adds up. And people wonder why the classic RPS is so expensive (and why Whaler has deleted it on the cost cutting new boats).
seagull	posted 07-02-2002 08:15 AM ET (US) Made a modified version from scratch out of aluminum. Check out the pics at this link: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/001750.html
whalerjake	posted 07-02-2002 03:38 PM ET (US) Nice job Seagull. Thanks for the info Tom. My choice of material is unfortunately based on cost. You're right, I'm lucky I've got the bases. Like Seagull I like the design of the original swingback but I'm not commited to making the seat exactly original. Stainless steal is out based on cost. I'm going to try 3/4" copper with 90 degree elbows. The wood will still be teak just not as much. I'm going to have thick padding on each side similar to the older swingback seats. 3/4" ply will be used for the base and inside the seatback.
padrefigure	posted 07-02-2002 08:21 PM ET (US) Copper is a bad choice because it is soft and corrodes easily. The green patina will rub off on everything. If you are still determined to give this a try look for heavy gauge copper--it is rated as M or L (I forget which is the thick wall). You can clean the copper assembly and spray with clear laquer to try to slow down the corrosion process. Stainless is not all that expensive (approx $2.50 per foot for 7/8" tubing). It is the fabrication (cutting and welding) that is a pain. Find someone that can do these things and barter for assembly and you could come out at a reasonable cost.
whalerjake	posted 07-03-2002 12:49 AM ET (US) I soldered up the copper tonight. Took about 30 minutes to cut and put together etc... I'm surprised it's so sturdy. For $18 in copper I thought it was worth a try. If it doesn't work I'll go Steel. Padrefigure had a good idea to paint it with a clear coat. How about a brush on poly? Sand the hell out of it and brush on? The seat back and seat base are ready to be covered with padding and fabric. I used maple for the seat back, 3/4" ply for the base. $20 + covering. Naturally I'm bummed I can't afford stainless and teak etc... but I need to get on the water soon, the local fishing is starting to turn on.