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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Drilling Holes in SS Bow Rails
|Author||Topic: Drilling Holes in SS Bow Rails|
posted 07-19-2002 08:14 AM ET (US)
Just bought the wrap-around Super Sport Rails for my 13' Sport from CMI Marine. However, to my dismay and surprise, I discovered that the holes had not been pre-drilled and that it is virtually impossible to drill the holes myself using a regular drill. How should I go about getting these holes drilled. Also, has anyone else bought rails from CMI and had similar problems?
posted 07-19-2002 09:50 AM ET (US)
Titanium or carbide bit. Normal bits will take about a 1/2 a hole. titanium maybe 10 minutes.
posted 07-19-2002 10:56 AM ET (US)
Brad - with any tubing, your big problem will be centering the hole. I use a 'V block' with a hole drilled dead center and square in the bottom of the 'V'. A tool or machinist supply outfit should have the V blocks. Simply clamp the V-block to the rail tubing with vise grips exactly where you want the hole and go to it. As far as the bit is concerned - use carbide tipped, cobalt (these will cut even when hot), or perhaps the titanium bit. Take it easy and don't force it. Use about a 1/4 in (or smaller) diameter hole in the V-block guide. ---- Jerry/Idaho
posted 07-19-2002 11:36 AM ET (US)
I've drilled through those SS tees with a 3/8 hand drill.
Buy the finest Titanium bit you can afford. You get what you pay for in drill bits. You will be amazed at how quickly a good Titanium bit will drill through the SS. There is no comparison, in my opinion, between Titanium and Carbide tipped bits.
posted 07-19-2002 01:24 PM ET (US)
I would have the railings welded - Outrage Style!
No more wobbly railings from loose screws
posted 07-19-2002 04:37 PM ET (US)
Don't listen to them. Just use a COLBALT bit,oil, and very slow drill speed. So slow that you can count the rpm of the drill. This will get you through just fine
My 1,000,000 worth
posted 07-19-2002 10:31 PM ET (US)
The reason you might want slow RPMs is because stainless is more difficult to cut through when it is hot than when it is cold. So if your bit is the right kind of bit, you can go fast and cut through the tubing before it gets hot. It might also help a little to do the job in the shade or at night.
posted 07-19-2002 11:41 PM ET (US)
Wrong answer. The right answer is,keep the bit cool. The colbalt bit prefers to shave the metal. I used this method last year to bore through 1 inch thick stainless in four different locations. I had a neat twistie of stainlesss about a foot long before it would break and start a new one. Believe me,my method is correct.
posted 07-22-2002 12:03 PM ET (US)
This isn't brain surgery or even rocket Science. I'v drilled many holes in ss tubing and fittings. Use a center punch and a 3/8 drill motor with titanium or cobalt bit ( commercial grade) Best bet is to go to a screw products industrial hardware dealer.Get a couple of carbide thread cutters. Helps to use a vee block if you are mechanically challenged. A drill press is best but a hand drill is ok. You might slide the fitting in place and use them as a guide for the holes in the tubing. Ive use the latter technique ti drill a couple of dozen holes when i built the bow and side rails for a 16-7. Go slow. It's a piece of cake. JIM
posted 07-22-2002 09:53 PM ET (US)
Cobalt and cutting oil or light oil. Slow speed. V-block with center hole sounds like good idea. At least center punch. Titanium is just an oxide coating. Cobalt is still cobalt steel alloy I think. I just got done drilling lots of ss plate and a console rail. I was toasting my new cobalt bits with my cordless drill because bad switch no longer has slow speed. I got out the old corded drill when my battery was low on the cordless and voila, slow speed plus liquid wrench as a cutting oil really helped. My bit lasted many holes. Plus I have resharpened some old bits on the grinder and with slow speed and oil have gotten many holes out of them as well in 16 ga. ss. Tim
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