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Author Topic:   3-piece rubrail questions
crosley95 posted 07-20-2002 10:14 AM ET (US)   Profile for crosley95   Send Email to crosley95  
i'm getting ready to install the rubrail. what size stainless screws for the receiver track? what's the cleanest way to handle the ends of the rubrail installation on the transom?


63WHALER posted 07-20-2002 10:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for 63WHALER    
Just completed that task 2 weeks ago. I used the 3/16" alum. rivets supplied to mount receiver track, held really good and very happy with. As far as finishing the ends cut receiver track flush and same angle as the transom, leave the insert 3-4" long on each end and cut off ribs on back of insert so it will lay flat and then radius end like a tongue, fold to transom and used same rivets- kit came with hollow wall anchor and ss. screws but opted for rivet becouse held sooo good. Good-luck
63WHALER posted 07-20-2002 10:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for 63WHALER    
Forgot to mention followed advice in reference article on rubrails, excellent info.
Tom W Clark posted 07-22-2002 11:02 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
crosley95 ,

You don't say what hull you have but if it is a 17' or smaller then you just cut the receiver track flush with the transom and do as 63WHALER describes and trim the ribs off the back of the insert.

Trim the ends of the insert to a semi circular shape and secure with a stainless steel #10 oval head sheet metal screw with a finish washer. Do not rivet this as you may well need to remove the insert for things like running wire to the bow light or simply replacing it or reinstalling it after it gets pulled loose.

You can use screws for the receiver track but I would use pop rivets as the factory does. If you do use screws, use # 6 truss head screws if you can find them. If not, use pan head screws.

Chesapeake posted 07-22-2002 06:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
crosley: Tom is "spot on" on his suggestion. We put a new rail on 5 or 6 years ago. The rivets were the simplest repair and very strong. Further, I expect to have to replace the insert occasionally, but don't expect to have to replace the full rail every ten years - so rivets were just fine for that application. But as Tom mentions, the key is to screw on the insert. I have had to remove my insert at least three or four times for various electrical repair work. This would have been a mess if that repair had been more permanent, ie. rivetted. Good luck, it is a really worthwhile improvement.


crosley95 posted 07-23-2002 07:45 AM ET (US)     Profile for crosley95  Send Email to crosley95     
thanks guys,

put the rail on sunday. let it bake in the sun for 4 or 5 hours. used the provided rivets. finished as suggested. couldn't be more pleased with the result. thanks for the help.


jimh posted 07-23-2002 08:17 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I just updated the Reference article on Rub Rails to include the idea of using the 1999 40th Aniversary Model WHITE rub rail as a replacement on pre-1970 boats.

nar1944 posted 07-23-2002 11:09 AM ET (US)     Profile for nar1944  Send Email to nar1944     
I'm about to install a rub rail, but don't have the rivets. What length came with the kit

Thanks Norm

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