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Author Topic:   Rhino Liner for inside boat
myback posted 08-05-2002 08:37 AM ET (US)   Profile for myback   Send Email to myback  
has anyone tried lining a whaler with Rhino Liner? Does it work? Cost? Non-skid? Weight?
Whaler Proud posted 08-05-2002 10:02 AM ET (US)     Profile for Whaler Proud  Send Email to Whaler Proud     

Try this thread for more discussion on this topic:

world2xplor posted 08-07-2002 11:50 AM ET (US)     Profile for world2xplor  Send Email to world2xplor     
Funny how similar ideas seem to flourish about the same time... I too am thinking about the rhino-liner for the interior of my '69 13'er. Went last week and got two estimates from rhino, $670 and $870, the difference being in the base rate each vendor gets per square ft. $5-$7/ft. plus any add'l charges based on your color choice, and whether a UV topcoat is necessary (for light colors). I'm debating on white, much to the chagrin of the vendors, as there seems to be concern throughout the company, about the white fading out in time to the original base material color, a light yellow/tan. This might be alright though, as it might resemble the desert tan in the end. The UV topcoat that they must use for lighter colors is also said to leave the finished job somewhat slick, so at this point, I'm still undecided about the whole thing. Anybody had any experience? especially white? If so, please E-mail me in addition to posting here..... thanks.
myback posted 08-07-2002 07:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for myback  Send Email to myback     
I found a place where you can get do-it-yourself roll on. its from a company called Durabak. its about 1/3 the price of having it done.
dscew posted 08-07-2002 07:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for dscew    
Not being familiar with the product or its marine application, I wonder if there is a way to add a non skid layer either on top or under the final coat of goo. I've heard that a diamond cut non skid is available.
JoeH posted 08-08-2002 01:51 AM ET (US)     Profile for JoeH  Send Email to JoeH     
I used a do it yourself roll on called herculiner(sp?) on my truck bed. It has been over a year of Michigan summers and a winter and I'm very happy with it. Aggressive non-skid built in. Mine is in black but it's possible they too offer colors now. $70-$80 on sale. Joe
myback posted 08-08-2002 09:38 AM ET (US)     Profile for myback  Send Email to myback     
The Durabak comes in 12 or 14 different colors. As for the nonskid properties, The coast cuard uses it on the deck of their ships
jimh posted 08-08-2002 02:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
This sounds like interesting stuff. See:

If anyone has tried this (or priced this) let us know.

Cpt Quint posted 08-08-2002 05:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for Cpt Quint  Send Email to Cpt Quint     
I had them send a sample in light blue. Too light but Im sure I could color it to a close match for an old deck.
Its harder than a tire but pliable(not rigid like a fitted bed liner. The non skid properties are great.Question would be its adhesion ability?
myback posted 08-09-2002 04:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for myback  Send Email to myback     
I talked to the company about the adhesion ability. They assured me that with proper prep work, the durabak would adhere for at least 10 years minimum. I have a sample of the middle blue which is very close to whaler blue. The non-skid properties seem extremely excellent. I have ordered 2 gallons for a 16 1/2 1962. The cost was $200 total with shipping. I'll reply once I have applied it any let you know how it works
world2xplor posted 08-28-2002 12:30 AM ET (US)     Profile for world2xplor  Send Email to world2xplor     
Since my last posting on this subject, and not being completely convinced that Rhino-liner would meet my needs, I've found another product, called Sani-Tred. Having only just read about the Durabak product a few minutes ago, I believe that the products will be somewhat similar in their end result with the exception being that Sani-Tred and their related products should give a heavier textured surface and be somewhat more cushiony. Sani-Tred is not to be thinned and cannot be sprayed, but is not solvent based, no VOC's, and is supposedly UV stable in lighter colors and white, if using the AL version of the product. Check them out at I am using the product for the inside of my badly stress cracked '69 13'er and have ordered/received 3 gallons of materials and the rubber granules to be added for the textured areas and will try to report back to let everyone know how it works out.
world2xplor posted 08-28-2002 12:35 AM ET (US)     Profile for world2xplor  Send Email to world2xplor     
P.S. The $286 cost including shipping (enough for 4 coats) sure beats the $870 it was going to cost for the non-UV stable Rhino-Liner.
jimh posted 08-28-2002 08:57 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I think you are on the right track. From what I have seen of truck bed liners, they don't look like type of thing to walk on when wet.

Please let the forum know how this works out. Your situation--spider cracked gelcoat interior--is a common one in older Whalers. If you get good results, many would like to hear of them.

weaverf posted 08-29-2002 12:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for weaverf  Send Email to weaverf     
World2xplor, let us know how this stuff works. I am at the point of having the inside of mine sprayed with rhino or linex or do it myself. After reading Sani Tred's web page it sounds like something I will want to use. I am interested as to whether you use a brush or roller and where you apply the texture surface. I am looking to use the texture on the rail, inside sides and inside floor unless the texture of the Sani Tred without the beads can hide imperfections. Let me know as soon as you can becuase I am at the ordering point but am waiting to hear from you.
world2xplor posted 08-31-2002 04:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for world2xplor  Send Email to world2xplor     
Saw your post about curiosity about the Sani-Tred. I'll be happy to let you know how it turns out but it is unfortunately going to be several weeks before I will get a chance to use the product. I'm heading to Fla
tomorrow or Monday to have my larger boat gel-coated after spending 3 years on and off working on an extensive blister repair/renovation. Will be back in 7 to 10 days but then know that I'll have to spend a
week or so getting things back to normal after the trip before having a chance to do anything with the Sani-Tred. To tell you the truth, I'm wishing I had ordered the Sani-tred a little differently. I ordered 3
gallons of the AL. It is the UV stable of their two products. However, it must be put on in very thin coats or will not cure properly. Being that I too am trying to cover several surface imperfections, I wish that I'd ordered at least one gallon of the AR, which will cure at any thickness (supposedly), and then done several
finish coats with the AL. I'll probably end up sending one gallon back for exchange, but as I said before, it will be awhile before I'll have a chance to do anything..... Good luck, perhaps you'll just have to chance it
with the product, like I am, if you are on a time schedule to get your boat done and back in the water. In that case, you let us know how it works out. Sea Ya,
weaverf posted 09-11-2002 09:51 AM ET (US)     Profile for weaverf  Send Email to weaverf     
I have gotten the Sani Tred. I have put on the first cost or colorcoat AR as a base, then sprinkled the entire interior with the rubber beads for a non slip surface and to hide imperfections. The AR and the beads application was not difficlut but time consuming. I have applied one top coat of color coat AL with one last coat to go. This coat again was not hard to do but very time consuming. It took about 5 hours to coat the inside of a 18 whaler. I think I will reduce the last coat some to make it easier. I probaly should have reduced the first coat of AL as well. After adding an accelorator the subsatnce stays very workable for a couple hours but thengets very thic. I think reducing with xylene would make it easier. The product itself looks to be very very tough. If it continues to stick to the surface as claimed it should be an excellant product. They do like for the surface to be rough when applied. I will update as I finish the job and let the porduct cure out.
weaverf posted 09-11-2002 09:55 AM ET (US)     Profile for weaverf  Send Email to weaverf     
Sorry for the typos but I put it on in a hurry!
world2xplor posted 09-15-2002 10:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for world2xplor  Send Email to world2xplor     
Well?? We're all waiting with baited breath.... How'd it come out?? Couple questions.?. Is the AR the product to use if I'm trying to hide surface imperfections s.a. missing pieces of stress-cracked gelcoat and smooth finish areas such as the interior hull sides? What did you use for application, brush or roller? How thick a coat of the AL can you put on and have it cure properly? How did the thinning with xylene work out? Anxiously waiting to hear.... World2Xplor
weaverf posted 09-16-2002 10:58 AM ET (US)     Profile for weaverf  Send Email to weaverf     
One gallon was damaged in shipment so I am waiting for one gallon of AL to finish the job. May need an addiitonal gallon to get a rich white color but will not know until the second gallon of AL is applied. I will not know how the xylene works until then. As I understand the AR has to be the first coat as it is sort of the primer and coat that attaches best. After that you could use a second coat of AR or AL (AL being the best for UV protection). I had a little pooling with the AR and it cured fine. I also had a little pooling with the AL on the first coat and it cured fine. Both AR and AL are very thick but will only hide minor imperfections. However when you sprinkle a little of the rubber beads on the first AR coat it hides major imperfections. I used a roller(4" rough surface) for the open spots and a brush on close corners. For the first or AR coat I just applied as any other paint or until I got a consistent color. I then sprinkled the beads on. I used them light on the sides and heavy on the rub rail, floor and flat surfaces. Then next day I vacuumed the loose beads up, and I covered with a coat of AL, using a roller. This took a very long time as it was hard to get good coverage over the beads. However the product is as advertised, very user friendly. Also I have been waiting about five days for the replacement gallon and have noticed how tough the surface is getting. If it sticks as advertised this stuff will be here long after I am gone.

One note, after putting the beads on and putting one coat of AL on I thought the surface was too rough. I went back over the surface with a orbital sander to knock the edges off before appying the last coat. The surface is much more to my liking. I will wipe with xylene before applying the last coat to ensure no seperation.

I will let you know once I put the last coat on and how it ends up. I have about $260 in the materials and even if I have to buy a third gallon of AL to get a rich white color, $330 is not bad. To this point I am very happy I chose the sanitred over the sprayed in bed liners. Will get back after I finish

JeffA posted 09-16-2002 11:54 AM ET (US)     Profile for JeffA  Send Email to JeffA     
I have (naturally) a lot of spider cracks in my Newport, which has a desert sand colored gel coat. This seems like it may be a good solution, but I have three questions:

1) I currently have a non-slip surface on the floor, does this need to be sanded down? I'm not sure how to clean my non-slip surface which would most likely be necessary prior to application of one of these products.

2)Is it still necessary to repair these spider cracks with the gelcoat patch kit?

3) Is this only for the floor or can this be used on the interior sides and transom well etc ?


Cpt Quint posted 09-16-2002 04:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for Cpt Quint  Send Email to Cpt Quint     

we dont know...this is a new use for product with some of our bravest patrons cutting into the grand abyss to discover new horizons for our troops (sorry got carried away there)

I think if you had to go through the trouble of pre-repairing all the spider cracks than why bother and our intended use is to see if this will coat over all the age imperfections without first prapairing each and every crack.

JDH posted 09-17-2002 01:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for JDH  Send Email to JDH     
What was your surface Prep for the Sani-tred?

For your 18 Whaler, are you saying it will take 3 gallons? i.e. 1 base coat/gallon, + rubber granules, + 2 gallons of top coat?

Why did you put the rubber granules anywhere besides the floor?

Would the product look good on the vertical surfaces by iteself (no runs etc) or is that why you put the granules there?

For jimh - maybe we can pull the Sani-Tred info out as it's own topic....



Cpt Quint posted 09-17-2002 03:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for Cpt Quint  Send Email to Cpt Quint     
I had a sample of the "durabak sent to me and was impressed. The price seems comparable to the above mentioned sanitred however it appears to come already put together and would thus cut down your application time. Whether or not it gives up bonding potential because you dont activate it upon application would be a concern.
Im going to call them to see what they say.
Cpt Quint posted 09-17-2002 03:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for Cpt Quint  Send Email to Cpt Quint     
for whats its worth, this appears to be a compairable product if it will adhere to existing gelcoat and fiberglass areas.

JDH posted 09-17-2002 06:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for JDH  Send Email to JDH     
Durabak would be brutal in a boat! I have use Durabak, Herculiner and Line-X on various 4x4 projects, and Durabak would cut your feet up!

I am curious to see the Sani-Tred, but I do fear that the same problem may exist since weaverf had to 'knock it down' a bit.

I wonder if you could use something else as a traction aid instead of the rubber (silica or other standard additives).


weaverf posted 09-17-2002 06:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for weaverf  Send Email to weaverf     
JeffA-1)yes I would sand very rough 2)no, I would just sand. My surface had many spider cracks and it covers them all 3)I used it on the floor, sides and motor well

JDH - 1 gal base(AR), rubber, 2 gal top coat(AL). Boat was really rough so I wanted a surface that would be different, hide imperfections and would wash out easy. I think the product would leave a very attactive semi gloss finish without the beads.

Guys remember I am in unchartered waters. However since I took a whaler that was awful and rebuilt it I figured why not try some new ideas with cost effective results.

so far I am very pleased. The replacement gallon is to be in on 9/20 and I will put on 9/21. Will let you know. Later.....

weaverf posted 09-17-2002 06:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for weaverf  Send Email to weaverf     
JDH- you are right, before I knocked it down with a sander it would be rough on the feet. However it is very comfortable now and with the last coat will be great on the feet and skin.
world2xplor posted 09-18-2002 11:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for world2xplor  Send Email to world2xplor     
Am so glad to hear that the sani-tred is working out as I had hoped. Couple questions:
Now that you've sanded after the AL coat, (knocked the edges off), will the last coat of AL not cover over too much of your texture?
You indicate that you too ordered the white, what are your thoughts that the finished product will/will not stain, or will wash easily. Should I consider trying to go toward a desert tan color, either from the factory, or tinting myself (if possible). North Carolina red clay is hard to get out of anything.
I'm wanting to try to smooth coat the inside of my boat except for the floor. Do you think I can achieve a smooth enough finish with a brush or should I just plan for texture throughout?
To what extent did you sand before starting with your first coat of AR?

Thankfully, thus far Sani-Tred seems to be living up to it's manufacturer's claims. Perhaps this will be the answer that many of us, with boats that would otherwise be too costly/time consuming to restore, have been looking for.
Am looking forward to hearing your end results and using mine as well, but still have to return the one gallon of AR for one of AL.

JDH posted 09-19-2002 01:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for JDH  Send Email to JDH     
I am interested to hear your comments too.

2 other questions:

What grit did you use to prep the boat? Heavier grit on the non-skid?

What grit did you use to 'knock down' the rubber granules?

I am still thinking of using flass beads or silica forthe non-skid.

I was also wondering about the color because their light tan is too dark as is their light gray, and I doubt that I want white....

I am really hoping that with the Sanitred on the inside, some hull paint on the outside and a new rub rail and console I can make my ugly duckling look better.


JDH posted 09-19-2002 01:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for JDH  Send Email to JDH     
GLASS beads.....
weaverf posted 09-19-2002 02:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for weaverf  Send Email to weaverf     
world2xplor-No--texture will still be very present. Just not offensive to the skin. I assume I will have some stain, I just like white boats. It will still wash very easy with the texture. I would think tan would look really good. A brush would get a very smooth finish, just stay with it it prevent runs. I used 60 grit disk sander to prepare bottom and 60 grit orbital to knock the texture down.

JDH- 60 grit all the way. I can tell you with the sani tred, hull paint and rubrail you will think you had a reborn experience.

later -- after I apply the last coat

Eric posted 09-19-2002 09:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for Eric  Send Email to Eric     
It seems that the old whalers like mine would all have issues with some moisture coming up through the gelcoat cracks. How's the adhesion of these coatings if that happens?
weaverf posted 09-26-2002 02:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for weaverf  Send Email to weaverf     
I have put the last or second coat of white on (AL Colorcoat) and the boat will set for 7 to 10 days to cure. I thinned the last coat about 5 to 10% with xylene and added the accelorator and it was much easier to cover. Went on easy and looks great. Obviously time will tell on the bonding but to this point I am very happy. Texture is also what I was looking for. If you like email me at and I can send a couple of pictures. I think it will show up ok.
JDH posted 07-03-2003 05:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for JDH  Send Email to JDH     
Bump to the top for an update.


Wally posted 07-04-2003 12:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for Wally  Send Email to Wally     
Has anyone ever tried painting their floor (or any other boat surface) with Evercoat's Skid-No-More? We're seriously considering using it and would like the input of anyone who has used this product. Thanks!
Duckin Whalers posted 07-04-2003 02:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Duckin Whalers  Send Email to Duckin Whalers     
I have a Rhino Liner in my pick up bed. The Rhino Liner does not have good non skid properties. The Rhino Liner becomes slick when wet. It is very durable and I am happy with it although, I wouldn't want it on surfaces I walk upon on a boat. Then again, I like to fish barefoot in my boat and I don't think I would want a aggressive non-skid surface like those used on Coast Guard and Navy vessels.
Eric posted 07-06-2003 05:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for Eric  Send Email to Eric     
It's good to see this post rise to the top again. I've been wondering how the projects have held up after a few months. Weaverf, if you're still following this thread, what's your opinion now?
gamerunner posted 07-06-2003 09:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for gamerunner  Send Email to gamerunner     
Rhino-liner is very similar to LINEX, which looks great, although I don't know how well it works as non-skid.

alkar posted 07-07-2003 01:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for alkar  Send Email to alkar     
We had my boat out off the coast again last weekend. The fishing and crabbing were mediocre, and the ocean was lumpy again, but the sunshine and salt air were a delight. The 22' really handles the slop well.

In terms of it's "stickiness", the Line-X is a vast improvement over the well worn whaler non-skid it replaced.

We had fish blood and slime all over the place, so we had to wash the deck down plenty. The Line-X was easy to rinse and, once clean, was a secure surface to walk on. I couldn't be happier with the product.

Eric posted 07-08-2003 09:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for Eric  Send Email to Eric     
Alkar, I have some questions, please.
Is line-x a user installed product? How long have you had it in your boat? What color? Was the boat heavily spider cracked? What year is your boat?
While we have had some input from those who have done different coatings, I don't know of any that have been in long term.
alkar posted 07-08-2003 09:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for alkar  Send Email to alkar     

Line-X is a professionally installed product. I'm told that the application process is more or less forgiving, depending on the material the line-X is being applied to. As I understand it, any idiot can apply Line-X to a steel pickup bed, but technique and primer application can be important on other surfaces, like fiberglass and plastic.

I've had the Line-X on my boat less than a month, but I have extensive experience with it elsewhere. (in pickups) It is extremely durable stuff.

My boat is a 1989 22' Outrage with Whaler-drive. I chose the dark gray Line-X.

I had numerous imperfections in my decking and the Line-X covered them very well - but I wouldn't want to use it EVERYWHERE.

shoctor posted 07-09-2003 09:43 AM ET (US)     Profile for shoctor  Send Email to shoctor     
Durabak works wonders. Use in my lobster boat and works like a dream. Good non slip agent and cleans up nicely.
weaverf posted 07-09-2003 10:03 AM ET (US)     Profile for weaverf  Send Email to weaverf     
I am still thrilled with how the sani-tread did. It is tough, non skid and does not stain as I had feared. You can control the amount of non skid by the number of beads used.

I can certainly recommend for the worst interiors. In fact I had a small amount of the product in a pan and I could hardly pull the stuff out and cut it with a razor knife.

I spent only $250 and my labor which is 1/3 to 1/4 of what the sprayed in liner was going to cost.

qhg posted 07-09-2003 01:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for qhg  Send Email to qhg     
How deep do you need to sand for prep work? Do you need to grind down the original non-skid down to flat?


rb posted 07-10-2003 10:32 AM ET (US)     Profile for rb  Send Email to rb     
I painted the interior of my old 16'7 hull with durabak about three months ago. I used 2 1/2 gallons of light blue and applied it with a 3" brush instead of the rollers that they supplied. I used a beltsander to prepare the surface removing most of the old gel coat right down to the glass. It takes two coats to cover, put the first one on thin to avoid drips. I put the second on very thick to smooth out some of the texture on the floor"easier on the feet". I highly recomend this product if the gel coat is to far gone to bring back. Adhesion is very good if the prep work is done right. You must use a thinner called zylene to clean the surface before you paint and it takes about an hour in between each coat. rb
JeffA posted 07-11-2003 12:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for JeffA  Send Email to JeffA     
Has anyone tried the Ultra-tuff non-slip coating yet? I used it for my Newport; they matched up the desert tan color fairly well. The original non-slip on the bow deck and along the sides was beat up. I am happy with the results.
Cpt Quint posted 07-11-2003 12:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for Cpt Quint  Send Email to Cpt Quint     
Ultratuff customed 2 gallons of the blue for my 63 but I havent yet gotten time to do this. What i liked was its water soluablity and one part formula. also 25% less expensive than competitive products that require premix formulas. they have the blue already in stock now! hope its durable.
JayR posted 02-07-2004 07:41 AM ET (US)     Profile for JayR  Send Email to JayR     
ok... it's been a while now. How is it holding up? Would you still recommend?
high sierra posted 02-07-2004 11:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for high sierra  Send Email to high sierra     
I have a 15.4 Whaler vintage 1976 which had literally thousands of spider cracks in the gelcoat inside. I took it to the local Diamond Liner dealer,[same as Line X ]. . I took out all the wood interior before and the dealer did all the sanding and prep and spraying.. The cost for the entire job was $375 after a little negoiating. The material has a lifetime warranty against failure and turned out great. A slightly pebbly finish and lots of traction. I have it in my truck and have never had a problem in 4 years. high sierra
coleman posted 02-09-2004 12:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for coleman  Send Email to coleman     
Used less than one gallon of DURABAK to do two coats in my 13' open whaler in November. Just cleaned the inside with xylene and rolled it on. Brushed corners. Used two coats of enamel on floor only to make the non-skid less abrasive on skin. You can order color you want or paint over. It's PERMANENT, so plan ahead! Great product.
alkar posted 02-10-2004 10:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for alkar  Send Email to alkar     
Line-X works wonderfully. I've had it on my gunwales and deck for months, and it has been regularly bathed in fish slime & blood. I have no complaints. See links below for photos.

Whalerdan posted 02-11-2004 07:48 AM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdan  Send Email to Whalerdan

Looks good to me.

Danny Shaw

Steve Leone posted 02-15-2004 12:59 AM ET (US)     Profile for Steve Leone  Send Email to Steve Leone     
Skid-No-More is a good product but it is acrylic based. It does not cure like the Durabek or others. It is "enviroment" friendly and dries overnight. Two to three coats is suffice. Make sure you take your fuel tank out of your boat. Gas eats it before it is completely dry. They also use ground up recycled tires. It is also forgiving on the bare foot warrior. The floor seems to be somewhat cushioned after applying this product. A good trait when things start pounding. You have to stir it frequently when you paint it on. Buy some cheap disposable brushes and tape off the drain channels that are located on the edges of the floor. Steve
paid4 posted 02-21-2004 06:55 AM ET (US)     Profile for paid4  Send Email to paid4     
This has been a valuable read for me.... however, nobody has addressed the weight issue other than to ask about it... can anyone who has lined their boat with durabak, line-x, sanitred, etc. say how much additional weight this has added and has it been an issue at all?
Whalerdan posted 02-21-2004 07:13 AM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdan  Send Email to Whalerdan     
I doubt the weight matters much. Think about it. Pick up that can of paint. How much does it weight? 10-20 lbs? Couple of tweleve packs max? Even a can of bottm paint that weighs a ton (maybe 40-50 lbs) wouldn't mak a difference.


paid4 posted 02-21-2004 07:35 AM ET (US)     Profile for paid4  Send Email to paid4     
Thanks Danny– the weight of a twelve pack is something I can grasp... good analogy that makes sense... thanks, p4
paid4 posted 02-21-2004 07:37 AM ET (US)     Profile for paid4  Send Email to paid4     
Thanks Danny– the weight of a twelve pack is something I can grasp... good analogy that makes sense... thanks, p4
paid4 posted 02-21-2004 07:48 AM ET (US)     Profile for paid4  Send Email to paid4     
Thanks Danny– the weight of a twelve pack is something I can grasp... good analogy that makes sense... thanks, p4
paid4 posted 02-21-2004 07:49 AM ET (US)     Profile for paid4  Send Email to paid4     
Thanks Danny– the weight of a twelve pack is something I can grasp... good analogy that makes sense... thanks, p4
alkar posted 02-21-2004 01:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for alkar  Send Email to alkar     
Line-X is very light. Holding a small sample-square feels about like holding a saltine cracker. I would be surprised if all the Line-X on the deck, compartments and gunwales of my 22' Outrage weighed more than 20 pounds.

I also have a custom-shaped keel-guard made of Line-X, and it's holding up perfectly. Maybe that's a subject for another thread.

Line-X is sprayed on hot and is chemically similar to super-glue. It cures/dries in about five seconds, so the decks are ready for use as soon as the boat can be rolled out of the application bay.

inlinelures posted 08-24-2005 11:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for inlinelures  Send Email to inlinelures     
I am sooooo glad to be part of this web site now. I finally bought my first whaler, not sure of the year and didn't come with a title (but I'll have to get past that). The previous owner starting repairing holes and damage around the rub rail. I am going to paint the entire bottom of the boat with Herculiner - black. I'm not too concerned about restoring this back to original, but just want to make it tough. Glad I read all of your posts... I am definately exicited about getting the bottom finished and then begin the top. I know what you are all thinking... putting this stuff on the bottom will slow the boat down - not a concern of mine. I'd rather drive a sherman tank than a speed boat down the river. Should have the done in a couple of weeks and will let all of you know how it went.
alkar posted 10-19-2005 07:53 AM ET (US)     Profile for alkar  Send Email to alkar     
Anything to report?

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