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Author Topic:   new drain tubes
brads13ft62whaler posted 08-07-2002 10:22 AM ET (US)   Profile for brads13ft62whaler   Send Email to brads13ft62whaler  
I'm new to this place, and I'm so glad I found it. You guys know everything!

Anyways, I'm restoring (to the best of my ability) my 1962, and I'm to the point where I have removed some wet foam around the drain tubes (it was soaked and delaminated under the motorwell), and need to replace the tubes (brass).

1) What should I use to make a watertight seal (besides the rubber rings)--west epoxy or something?, and

2) How do I bend the straight end around the rubber ring once the tube has been inserted? Is there some special tool to round it off?

Thanks for your insight...Brad

Gep posted 08-07-2002 10:51 AM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
Try this thread.

I just bought a flanging tool myself, as I plan on replacing the tubes on my Whaler.

John O posted 08-07-2002 12:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for John O    
I did this to my 88 Newport in the spring. I used a flaring tool from Hamilton Marine in Maine. I used 3m4200 around the ends of the new tube. 5200 may be better. The only difficulty I ran into was the tube in the lower transom had an odd angle and the straight tube that I bought from BW dealer was straight. I had to get a plummer buddy to bend it. Brass will break if you try to bend it without the correct tools. I don't know why the through hole was at such an angle.
brads13ft62whaler posted 08-07-2002 12:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for brads13ft62whaler  Send Email to brads13ft62whaler     
Thanks, I knew you guys would have the answers! I'll try not to annoy you with all my future questions...Brad
Gep posted 08-07-2002 01:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
I don't think you've annoyed anyone, yet :)
Wait until you find out the flaring tool is $40.00.
Gep posted 08-07-2002 01:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
P.S. Brad, check out my '59 13' sport in the cetacea. Page 51
brads13ft62whaler posted 08-07-2002 05:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for brads13ft62whaler  Send Email to brads13ft62whaler     
Mike, before I bought my '62 for $500, I looked at your page (51) and it motivated me to be able to go for it-thanks for that!

As for the flanging tool, I checked out my local plumbing supply store, and they only had 1" and 3/4", which led me to believe that the brass tube I have is about 7/8"-does that sound right?

Therefore, I tried Hamilton Marine and another place, and they referred me to their supplier, and no luck yet--I guess I'll try my local BW dealer before I try the old ball-peen hammer method...

brads13ft62whaler posted 08-07-2002 05:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for brads13ft62whaler  Send Email to brads13ft62whaler     
Mike, I have to say It's really cool to see how yours started out and how the finished product turned out, I have been taking pictures all along during the process of my restoration, and maybe I'll scan and post them...
Tom W Clark posted 08-07-2002 11:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     

You want the 1" drain tube. The flanging tool is designed for this size.

Gep posted 08-08-2002 09:07 AM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
Are the drain tubes 1" on all whalers?

P.S. When I get done doing my drain tubes, I was thinking of renting out my flanging/flaring tool. To help defray the costs. I was thinking kind of a roving tool amongst the forum members. It might save somebody else from having to spend $40.00 on a tool you probably won't use again.

Gep posted 08-08-2002 09:12 AM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
Thanks for the compliments. I pretty much did the same thing. I found this site one day, and the next day ripped everything out of my boat and had it painted.
My two only regrets were:
Not taking more time and doing the prep work myself. I could have saved alot of money.
And painting instead of re-gelcoating.
70_Katama posted 08-08-2002 11:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for 70_Katama  Send Email to 70_Katama     
The 3 drain tubes on my 17 are all 1"
brads13ft62whaler posted 08-08-2002 04:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for brads13ft62whaler  Send Email to brads13ft62whaler     
My drain tubes (that I was sent from Chesapeake Whalertowne in Baltimore) must be 7/8", because I found a 1" hammer-type tool at a plumbing supply store (too big) and a 3/4" (too small).
Even though the 1" flange tool is tapered about an inch from the part where it curves around and starts to bend the tube, I could force the 1" tool on but I believe it would make the brass split. I suppose I could re-drill the holes in the boat so that a 1" tube would fit and exchange the ones I have.
Mike, I'd definitely be interested in renting your flaring tool if it fits 7/8" or if I switch to a 1"...
Morocco posted 08-09-2002 02:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for Morocco  Send Email to Morocco     
Take the plug that fit the tube to your marine parts store and match it with a new one -- that will tell you the size.

Or you could use a ruler.

I replaced my metal tubes with PVC -- easy to work with, no corrosion and no flaring tube. Sure it's not original, but it is also out of sight...

63WHALER posted 08-09-2002 11:11 AM ET (US)     Profile for 63WHALER    
Just received new drain tube and flaring tool from Twin Cities Marine. The brass tube measures 1" outside dia. and roughly 15/16" inside dia.. The o-rings look heavy duty. Haven't installed yet, maybe this weekend. Replacing long one about 13" or so, already removed the original it was deteriated and only half was left.

The flaring tool is very simple , can't believe this thing cost $40.00. Would be happy to rent, loan, or sell after I install the tube. The tool consists of 2 dies, like washers with radius, & bolt with nuts that sandwich tube to roll ends. I had to get a piece of all-thread rod(1/2")since I am replacing the long tube. Kit came with about a 3-4" long bolt, the all-thread I cut to 15"long.

Since I work at a machine shop Iv'e been toying around idea of making these dies on CNC eguip. to match radius. Price should probably be 1/3 the price of new.

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