Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
|Author||Topic: Damage control|
posted 08-08-2002 09:15 AM ET (US)
I just removed a trolling motor mount from the left front of my Montauk. I have about 4 1" diameter holes and 9 smaller screw holes in a 9" by 6" area. There are also a couple of broken off brass screws in the area as well.
Other than filling the holes with epoxy, I was wondering if anyone had any ideas of something else I could use to coverup the damaged area. Some kind of dohickey that wouldn't look too out of place.
posted 08-09-2002 11:45 AM ET (US)
Man, that was some mounting job--13 holes left to fill!
I had the same situation, but fortunately only 4 holes. I filled them with epoxy and topcoated with gelcoat. It did not match the non-skid pattern, but it looked fairly decent.
For the smaller holes you could try this approach: install a stainless steel flathead screw in the holes and set it flush with the deck. This fills the hole and give a decent appearance, too. LHG is the one who suggested that to me; he has done this in a couple of spots in his boat's cockpit floor where some gear was removed. It looks very nice. You can first fill the hole with some epoxy so the new screw is binding into fresh material.
Now for those 1-inch diameter holes you will have to fill and re-gelcoat. Not much other alternative available. You might try to make a mold and match the nonskid pattern, too, since the area is so large.
posted 08-09-2002 02:25 PM ET (US)
Duct tape :)
posted 08-09-2002 03:53 PM ET (US)
I like jimh's idea, and went one step further. I use beveled screws and a finishing washer (like on the RPS arm). If you put a rubber/plastic washer underneath the finishing washer, it adds to the seal, and won't let the finishing washer dig into the gelcoat. This works and looks great on varnished teak, too.
posted 08-09-2002 03:54 PM ET (US)
posted 08-09-2002 04:38 PM ET (US)
I had the same problem, so I just put the mount right back on :)
posted 08-09-2002 04:49 PM ET (US)
If it is up on the bow wing/step; you could mount a 1/4" thick step/pad.
Make it the shape of the non-skid area either of starboard or teak depending on the boat's look and groove it for taction. Or, you could modify the square ones that are in the chandleries.
posted 08-09-2002 04:52 PM ET (US)
That would be traction for good taction.
posted 08-09-2002 04:59 PM ET (US)
Could you get the bracket modified to look good? Paint it and put it back with stainless bolts and screws. Perhaps, you could use it again.
posted 08-09-2002 09:09 PM ET (US)
Right now I have duct tape over the holes. The trolling motor mount is going to stay off. Not much use for one and this one is a fresh water one anyway.
I was looking through the cetacea photos and ran across a neat looking little samson post. I am also looking at a mount for a removable spot light. Would be good for shrimping or flounder gigging.
I will probably follow Jimh's advice and then cover it with the step pad if it looks too bad.
posted 08-10-2002 05:40 PM ET (US)
Have not personaly dealt with one inch holes but have dealt with smaller ones. I went to a good harware store (owned by my brother) and bought wooden plugs usually used for use in replacing screw holes that have rounded out and won't hold a screw tight any more. i.e. screw turns and turns and dosen't get tight. Cut them to the right depth and sink below gelcoat bottom level. They make a nice surface to adhere gelcoat to to make the top water tight, Gelcoat adheres to wood like a bad reputation to a loose lady (wait till the PC crowd reads that). Then go to any number of sites here that discuss matching the color of the gelcoat repair. I have been very lucky (apparently) with matching my gelcoat color on my 86 Mountauk but others report some problems. If you can't find the plugs in one inch size you might consider going to a lumber yard and purchasing a good harwood dowel for the same prupose. By the way coating the plug/dowel in resin before insertion makes the wood water tight.
posted 08-10-2002 05:46 PM ET (US)
P.S. Fiberglass resin (reread didn't appear clear) hope jimh agrees are I'm going to catch all sorts of hell. "Breathes there a man with soul so dead that every said, I don't like a Montauk" shot him, hang him or be kind and just ignore the ignorant _______
posted 08-11-2002 10:56 AM ET (US)
Hi, Tin Man.
Had I decided to remove the mount before selling the boat, I would have:
1. Pull the broken off screws by hole-sawing around them with a 1" hole saw.
2. Drill the screw holes out to 1/2".
3. Fill each hole (including the one through the gunnel) with appropriate size epoxyed wood plugs about 1/4" below surface level.
4. Epoxy to about 1/8" below the surface.
5. Use a rubber moulding material to make a female copy of the non-skid about 4"x4", then use that to make a copy of the surface in gelcoat.
6. Cut 1" and 1/2" "plugs" of the non-skid copy and epoxy them into the holes with enough epoxy underneath to keep them level with the surface.
Sounds complicated, but it would restore the pad to near-new appearance.
Red sky at night. . .
posted 08-12-2002 01:27 PM ET (US)
Cheap fix. Fill holes and cover with white or black non-skid tape or teak wood.
posted 08-12-2002 11:24 PM ET (US)
There are two pieces to the problem:
1. Keeping water from coming in the hole.
2. Making it look prety/decent/tolerable or
whatever your aesthetic threshold is.
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