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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Purists: re-gel over the original hull stencil?
|Author||Topic: Purists: re-gel over the original hull stencil?|
posted 08-13-2002 03:32 PM ET (US)
Should I re-gelcoat over the original hull ID stencil on my 1963 13' hull # 8808? This may seem like an absurd question to some, but to purists, collectors, afficianados, etc., there may be a difference of opinion. There is crazing and pitting in and around the ID number. I am doing a "complete" restoration. Should "complete" exclude the original stencil?
posted 08-13-2002 03:37 PM ET (US)
posted 08-13-2002 03:58 PM ET (US)
I am doing the same with my 1970 13' sport and this is what i plan on doing. Gelcoat the entire hull to the original 20mil thick finish, stencil the original number with pencil on the hull, scratch the pencil number out with a hobby knife, and fill scratched out part with white gelcoat paste, sand lightly 600grit and buff. Tada, just like it never received it's makeover.
posted 08-13-2002 04:23 PM ET (US)
I've always known I could simply repaint the hull ID number, just confused about whether to interfere with the "original". With most antiques any alterations or improvements diminish the value of the antique. By the way, did Whaler paint or gel coat the stencil number?
posted 08-13-2002 07:33 PM ET (US)
AC, your 13' completely restored with the restenciled # should be fine.
After all it's not going to be original anymore, and not as valuable to a collector.
If the boat needed resoration it should be looked at as a boat to be used.
I am pretty sure the # was painted.
By the way, your handle, does it have anything to to with my favorite car?
posted 08-13-2002 08:55 PM ET (US)
"AC" comes from my initials. What's your favorite ride?
posted 08-14-2002 12:51 AM ET (US)
I'm painting mine in the next few weeks, and was thinking about the same thing...
I figure I'll cover my hull #5013 while I paint, and then use a clear epoxy for that area (it's in the bow locker) afterwards (or maybe epoxy it first, then cover and paint), so that the original stamp (with it's smeared and flawed paint) can be seen still, yet sealed well. By now, I ASSUME most BW's from that era have been modified in some way...
P.S. I love my 2002 Chevy S-10 ZR2
posted 08-14-2002 09:15 AM ET (US)
My favorite ride is the 1964 AC Cobra 427. I have driven the original once. I have a friend that has a reproduction that is sweet.
The factory that makes the repoduction cars is right down the street from my office. I drool all over my self every time I drive my Silverado by.
posted 08-14-2002 09:56 PM ET (US)
The original numbers were stenciled in. It it not simply painted on top of the gelcoat. The hull number goes right down to the glass.
posted 08-15-2002 01:18 AM ET (US)
dangc78 could you explain that one a bit further. I think you are breaking new ground here.
|Tom W Clark||
posted 08-15-2002 01:55 AM ET (US)
After reading dangc78's recent post above I thought to myself "what a crock". Well curiosity got the better of me and I decided to go see for myself. I just happen to have a piece Whaler transom in my basement with a stenciled hull number on it, so I tried to scratch through the "paint" of the number.
dangc78 is correct. The serial number is gel coat, not paint. A close investigation of one character that happened to fall half way on a chain saw cut through this transom piece revealed that the numbers/letters have a thickness comparable to the gel coat thickness. However, the numbers do not go down to glass. There is an extra layer of colored gel coat beneath them as if the number resides in a recess in the hull.
Upon reflection it is apparent what Whaler does (did) at the factory. They spray the stenciled number with gel coat on the mold and then over spray it with the colored gel coat of the interior of the hull. Because the number already has thickness there the extra gel coat over laying it produces a double thickness of gel coat in that area.
This is why the number remains visible after more than thirty years and much abuse. Another example of the thoroughness of the Whaler building technique.
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