Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
|Author||Topic: Bottom painting!!|
posted 08-13-2002 06:29 PM ET (US)
Is bottom painting something that is needed?? My 13 sport has none but you can see were there was paint at one time. Should I paint the bottom??And the reason for the paint is?? I am new to boating, so sorry if this seems like an elementary question. Thanks,Ron
posted 08-13-2002 07:36 PM ET (US)
The boat only needs bottom paint if it is going to be kept in the water full time.
To answer your question about bottom paint, it is a paint with special chemical additives that either prevent marine growth on the hull, or cause it to come off while the boat is underway.
posted 08-13-2002 08:04 PM ET (US)
the boat is trailerd 90% of the time.
posted 08-13-2002 09:06 PM ET (US)
You may come across antifouling bottom paints that claim they are for trailerable boats or single-season use. I agree with Brian that your boat only needs it if it is stored in saltwater.
posted 08-14-2002 12:39 AM ET (US)
At the recommendation of just about everyone I've talked to, I'm painting my whole boat with interlux 2-part polyurethane, because I have done extensive fiberglass repairs (west system works awesome) to the bottomside as well as the topside. Of course the preparation is the most important thing, but there'll be a coat of primer, then interfill, then primer again, then 2 or 3 coats of the interthane plus (all rolled and tipped). My sources all recommended 2-part because it's mostly going to be on a trailer, and 2-part poly is more durable for that.
posted 08-14-2002 09:30 AM ET (US)
You may want to consider Awlgrip or Imron. I think they are both epoxy based and may be stronger than poly.
You must be very talented to paint over extensive repairs. I have decided on bottom paint because the gloss of the paint on my repairs will stand out like a sore thumb.
posted 08-14-2002 01:40 PM ET (US)
When you say "stand out like a sore thumb," do you mean glossy rather than flat like the worn gel coat looks? I guess I'd rather the boat look normal. I looked at adding interlux' flattening agent, but the jar said don't add it to 2-part polyurethanes.
Will awlgrip or imron stand up to being trailered? That seems to be the main reason for the recommendations for interlux. Are the others more flat appearing when they dry? Which bottom paint are you using? (I have west system epoxy filler on about a dozen small areas that I repaired).
Thanks for complicating my decision!
posted 08-14-2002 06:47 PM ET (US)
thanks to you all for the advice,No bottom paint for me. Although i did have a ?'s about all of the spider cracks in the gel coat,oops, ill start another thread..
posted 08-15-2002 09:03 AM ET (US)
I'm no expert, however on a new Whaler or an old Whaler with buffed and waxed gel coat, they shine like a car. The ultimate paint would be to regel coat the boat, buff it out and wax it.
I don't know much about Interlux finish paint, but I'm sure it will be fine. After all they are the world leader in boat paint.
I think we all can go a bit overboard repairing and resoring are Whalers. The correct thing to do is what YOU feel is right. If you don't like the way the bottom looks you can always bottom paint it.
posted 08-16-2002 01:13 PM ET (US)
I Use a antifouling paint on my 79/13' sport because boat is in water 70% of year. For preventing plant & other growth this has worked well for past 5 years, however trailering does take a toll on this paint. Am presently in process of having bottom repainted due to gradual rubbing away on bunkers. I live on the ST. Johns river , which isn't salt [at the extreme south end], and if left unprotected a lot of plant life will attach to bottom and drasticaly reduce performance. Before painting , bottom had to be cleaned [a laborous & smelly job] twice a year.With paint , a simple pressure washing takes off most anything.
posted 08-16-2002 02:54 PM ET (US)
Any 2 part is a good strong paint. Imron is what airplanes are painted with.....very hard and VERY expensive. No 2 part should stay in the water for extended periods of time, it will peel. Trailer rollers should not do much to the paint but if it does, who will see it? Do not add flatening agent.
posted 08-16-2002 04:25 PM ET (US)
I wouldn't waste a whole lot of time fairing the surface if you are planning to roll and tip it. Hit it with 100 grit to take down the really high spots, then come back with 180 or 220, and call it good. Brush strokes will be quite evident (despite what the literature says). Having done it both ways, I can say that the only way to get a really good finish is to spray it (something that should not be attempted without a fresh air respirator). Some other tips: follow the directions EXACTLY. The biggest potential pitfall is the adhesion of the paint. Use the 2 rag wipe down method, and don't touch it AT ALL before painting. Any oil from your hand will cause the wet paint to 'bead' and will be very noticable.
Good luck with your project.
p.s. Interlux is probrably the best choice for rolling and tipping. If spraying, I would go with Imron as it is a bit cheaper and easier to work with than AG, and has about the same appearance and durability.
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.