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  Repairing holes in non-skid gelcoat

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Author Topic:   Repairing holes in non-skid gelcoat
spartan posted 08-16-2002 08:12 AM ET (US)   Profile for spartan   Send Email to spartan  
I would like to repair several screw holes in the deck of my boat left from previous seating arrangements. Is It possible to make such a repair that matches the texture of the non-skid surface?
jameso posted 08-16-2002 08:33 AM ET (US)     Profile for jameso  Send Email to jameso     
Here's what I did, got the gel coat kit from Spectrum. Applied as per instructions then while still wet I used the edge of a putty knife to scribe the "non skid" pattern. After the gel dried I sanded and polished. Yes close inspection shows it's repaired but from 6 feet it looks good.
Jim Armstrong
DJS posted 08-16-2002 09:05 AM ET (US)     Profile for DJS  Send Email to DJS     
Spartan,

Look at the post below.

continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/002425.html

David

Tom W Clark posted 08-16-2002 10:01 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Also see:

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000485.html

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/001191.html

spartan posted 08-18-2002 08:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for spartan  Send Email to spartan     
Thanks for the help guys!
fgb posted 08-28-2002 09:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for fgb  Send Email to fgb     
When repairing non-skid one can make a flexible mold rather easily-using products primarily for repairing automobile bumper covers or other non-metal parts. #3m,Lord Fusor,Dominion Sure Seal,Duramix,and others make such products. Because of the contour variations in B/W floors try to find an area that is similar elsewhere in the boat. Clean this area thoroughly,apply mold release wax and mix up one of the above mentioned products as per manufacturers recommendations. All are two-part products and some come packaged in dual parallel tubes that meter correct amounts of product and catalyst.Using a plastic spreader wipe an area slightly larger than the area you wish to repair. Apply good pressure when wiping to ensure that the material is forced into all of the recesses in the floor pattern.Allow to dry and peel up. It will not break as these materials are flexible and now insoluble. Mix your resin apply to the screw hole and place the mold (with fresh mold release agent on it) over the repair gently moving it around until it "keys" into the floor. Place weight on patch and allow to dry. Peel up and detail as necessary. It works well for small fixes like chips and screw holes.
David Jenkins posted 08-28-2002 11:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for David Jenkins  Send Email to David Jenkins     
fgb, Thanks for the great advice. I want to repair extensive crazing in non-skid areas then re-gelcoat. Can I use the mold you described to redo the entire non-skid area with a new layer of gelcoat? Would it be a good idea to first spray or roll on some type of primer to fill all those hairline cracks? Can I apply gelcoat over primer?
JeffA posted 08-29-2002 06:50 AM ET (US)     Profile for JeffA  Send Email to JeffA     
Does this work for a large area? My Newport has a small bow deck where the windshield rests and which had a textured surface. This area was sanded down and painted. I would like to try and restore this area.

Thanks,
Jeff

fgb posted 08-29-2002 06:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for fgb  Send Email to fgb     
I have no experience doing this type of repair on a large area. Two factors have prevented this: 1) The costs of the materials and the amount that would be required; and 2) The difficulty in applying even pressure, of sufficient force, to the entire area.Again, the contour variations become a factor.The application of weight is key to the appearance and durability of the repair. The material is kind of like a "flexible bondo" but even it has its limitations. If it could be accomplished, I would be concerned about the heat generated by the cross-linking of the resin with its catalyst. Complete coverage with the mold would not allow for heat to dissipate at an acceptable rate,possibly affecting cure and performance. Regarding priming, hairline cracks cannot be filled with paint. The solvent tends to run towards the crack and the pigment tends to run away from the crack. It can be bridged but that usually only lasts a few months-then the spider cracks tend to reappear.

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