Forum: WHALER
  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  I broke my bow cleat!

Post New Topic  Post Reply
search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   I broke my bow cleat!
george nagy posted 08-26-2002 11:05 AM ET (US)   Profile for george nagy   Send Email to george nagy  
Well I actually just stripped/ sheared the screws that attach the bow norman cleat to my 18' outrage.

I was in the midst of removing the old rub-rail so I can install the new one and realized that the bow cleat had to be removed.

The first screwI tried sheared the head off. then I soaked it for a few hours with wd-40 and no luck. I had no idea that there is an aluminum backing plate under thr cleat. After 15 years of salt exposure ther is no way to get them out without srtipping the heads off the screws.

I decided to proceed with drilling the heads off so I could at least finnish the rub-rail installation. As it sits now I have half the rail kit installed and 4 stainless studs frozen in the bow.

I wonder if anyone has been in this situation and can guide me through this?

browning20ga posted 08-26-2002 11:21 AM ET (US)     Profile for browning20ga  Send Email to browning20ga     
Hi George, I've had much better luck with Liquid Wrench than WD-40 on coroded screws. If there is enough of the old bolt sticking out I'd try vice grips or a "bolt extractor", your local Sears store should have both tools. If the heads were still intact it would be interesting to see how that new tool Sears has been advertising that digs right down into the head of the screw but I think your too far along for that. (no i don't work at sears or own any sears stock)
Darrell
ShrimpBurrito posted 08-26-2002 12:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for ShrimpBurrito  Send Email to ShrimpBurrito     
I just purchased a pack of those screw extractors from Sears, and they do work. Ideally, however, the head has to be intact.

If you've already drilled off the heads, and the screw still sticks out, use vice grips. If they're flush with the surface (which I suspect), I'd say your only option is to drill the rest of it out. I got the kind of extractors that actually drills a little bit and taps itself into the screw, so if you're talking about a screw that is at least 1/4" in diameter, you MIGHT be able to use the extractors still.

The only way you'll be able to drill the screw out is using a cobalt bit (available at Sears), but you're going to have problems keeping it straight. You'll will very likely drill crooked, so you could let some epoxy cure in the hole before putting in the new screws.

Jerry Townsend posted 08-27-2002 11:21 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jerry Townsend  Send Email to Jerry Townsend     
You have a problem confronting many - it can turn out alright. As some have mentioned, WD-40 is not really a penetrating material. As others have mentioned, use the standard easy-outs - but be CAREFULL. That is, use an easy-out that allows you to use a drill of the size of the root diameter of the threads - and that will mean in your case, a small diameter bit. By using the drill bit of the root diameter allows you to re-tap the holes and frequently, the tap will 'chase' the remaining screw material out of the existing threads. The small diameter means it will break quite easily. Center the hole as best possible and take it easy. Use the proper sized easy-out and attempt to back the broken-off screw out. Here, is is paramount to TAKE IT EASY - because the easy-outs are made of a very brittle material and if you break off the small easy-out, your problems have just started. Good luck --- Jerry/Idaho
george nagy posted 08-27-2002 11:30 AM ET (US)     Profile for george nagy  Send Email to george nagy     
Well it is too late for an easy-out. I bought some of those cobalt bits for stainless steel and the won't even cut. I guess the chromium has work hardened the steel to be harder than my bits. I have snapped off many small bits and larger bits tend to want to walk of the bolt shank and dig through the aluminium.

I'm stuck now!

It is pretty hard to dock/anchor without the bow cleat.

I'm exploring more options, but remain very disapointed!

ShrimpBurrito posted 08-27-2002 11:44 AM ET (US)     Profile for ShrimpBurrito  Send Email to ShrimpBurrito     
George -

I'm not sure why the cobalt bits aren't working for you. I just drilled out several stainless 1/4" screws with them last week, using the Craftsman Professional brand, and they cut plenty fast. The DeWalt brand seemed to work pretty good too, but maybe not quite as fast. You cannot use the drill at a high speed, and you need to apply a little pressure. Once you start seeing some flakes coming out, you know you're at the right speed.

Don't even try using your regular bits on stainless. You'll dull them in less than 30 seconds.

Believe me, I feel your pain. I was right where you were a few weeks ago trying to get stainless screws out of a badly oxidized throttle control case.

Zack posted 08-27-2002 02:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for Zack  Send Email to Zack     
George, down on the Texas coast we use Vinegar to loosen stainless/aluminum. Try to somehow get some around the threads and let it soak for a day or two, then try to back them out. Hope this helps.
jameso posted 08-27-2002 03:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for jameso  Send Email to jameso     
George,
I am cornfused! Are you removing the Norman pin (bronze) the bow eye, or the light and bollock assembly?
Might try using a dremel to start a pilot hole for a bit.
Also as a note of info for anyone replacing the bow and stern lifting eyes/tow ring, my LES has larger ones made from unplated bronze. I am sure these are avail from BW CPD. Might be a good replacement unless ya just gotta have the chrome ones.
Jim (feeling your pain) Armstrong
george nagy posted 08-27-2002 03:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for george nagy  Send Email to george nagy     
James0,
The 18' and larger hulls have a different bow-chock than the 17' and down.

I will try to use a smaller holesaw and go around the steel, like coring an apple, then use some stainless 1/4-20 toggle bolts.

george nagy posted 08-30-2002 03:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for george nagy  Send Email to george nagy     
The holesaw worked great! I found there is wood underneath the aluminum. I think I can get the stainless togglebolts in there and set with some epoxy they should hold just as good as the original.

Post New Topic  Post Reply
Hop to:


Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.