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Author Topic:   Soft Floor in 18 Outrage
Seabrook posted 09-03-2002 02:13 PM ET (US)   Profile for Seabrook   Send Email to Seabrook  
I have noticed several posts warning of soft floors in Outrages, and the 18 Outrage in particular. While I realize that you never want rotten wood anywhere in a boat, repairing/replacing the wood in the floor would not seem to be that big of a chore since it unscrews and can be removed. I know of a couple fishing guides that run larger mid 80s Outrages and they both replaced replaced the wood in the floor (or had it replaced). My OR 18 has one soft spot right next to the starboard drain. I am considering repairing it by the following method, but would appreciate it if anyone has any better ideas.

1. Remove the floor over the fuel tank
2. Cut out the fiberglass bottom with a dremel tool.
3. replace the wood to the top fiberglass floor piece and secure it with 5200 and then reglass over the wood.

Any better ideas or past experiences are appreciated.

skibis88 posted 09-03-2002 10:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for skibis88  Send Email to skibis88     
I successfully repaired a floor in a 20 Revenge by using a product called Git-Rot wood treatment (page 329 in Boatus cat.)

You drill a bunch of small holes in the effected area and mix up the epoxy in the sqeeze bottle and inject into the wet wood below. As I remember I was suprised at how much heat is generated as it reacts. Some of the epoxy will weep out of the holes during the reaction. So be ready with some cotton rags to wipe up the spills before they harden.

Good luck

Seabrook posted 09-04-2002 10:56 AM ET (US)     Profile for Seabrook  Send Email to Seabrook     
skibis88, thanks for the reply. I will try your method first. How did you cover up the holes you drilled?
skibis88 posted 09-05-2002 09:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for skibis88  Send Email to skibis88     
When the epoxy hardened I used a counter sink bit in my drill to cut a cone in each hole and filled with tan gelcoat.

Clean as much expanded epoxy as you can before it hardens. Have plenty of rags and MEK or acetone solvent to clean up.

I was suprised how much the solution expanded and will come out all the holes. The reaction with the water in the damp wood below the fiberglass surface, created alot of heat.

Might be a good idea to apply heat for a couple days after you drill your holes. Allowing some of the moisture to dry out prior to injecting the solution.

slightseas posted 09-07-2002 06:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for slightseas  Send Email to slightseas     
Where is this "wood"? I have an '84 OR and didn't think there was any wood in it.

Also, have you heard of any problems with the fuel tank? I am not having any problems that I know of, but was considering replacing due to age.

Seabrook posted 09-09-2002 01:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for Seabrook  Send Email to Seabrook     
The floor that screws into the deck above the gas tank has wood encapsulated in the fiberglass. One screw hole on the top that does not get sealed properly and the water has no place to go but into the wood. I think it is rather common to have some soft wood in this center section, at least I have heard of several people with the same problem.
shoctor posted 09-11-2002 09:39 AM ET (US)     Profile for shoctor  Send Email to shoctor     
skibis I was told not to use that product on whalers due to the heat you explained can cause the foam to melt. Did you find this to be the case? Or did this not occur I have an older (65) currituck and am planning the rebuild this winter. Would you recomend and does the wood stuff act as an epoxy? or does it just treat the wood? I am going to start a string on this I thing in the repairs I think the name is get rot?

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