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  Rotten wood in Whalers and use of GIT ROT

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Author Topic:   Rotten wood in Whalers and use of GIT ROT
shoctor posted 09-11-2002 09:45 AM ET (US)   Profile for shoctor   Send Email to shoctor  
I am interested in the use of the GIt rot product and am curious if anyone has used this at all. I was informed that the heat from this product could melt the foam on the inside of whalers. This is obviously not the result I am looking for. The product also claims to restore wood to it's origional stength. Also would you have to after use then use a west system epoxy? I am just unsure of the proper procedure due to fact the floor in my 65 currituck has some delamination in spots if I inject this into the wood would this replace me putting a west systems epoxy in the floor etc etc?
Cpt Quint posted 09-11-2002 09:49 AM ET (US)     Profile for Cpt Quint  Send Email to Cpt Quint     
Rot cure products will melt the foam not becuase of the heat but because of thier properties. West systems as bedding compound for screws or to relaminate deck will cure around applied areas and not melt the foam.
Caution... Dont use as bedding compound unless you are absolutely making a permanent
fixture to anything becuase it is not reversable.
Seabrook posted 09-11-2002 10:43 AM ET (US)     Profile for Seabrook  Send Email to Seabrook     
GitRot: My results were mixed.

The Problem: I used it to repair a small area of the floor (1'x2')of my Outrage that was soft. This area was part of the cover for the fuel tank and contains no foam. The wood encapsulated in the fiberglass flooring had gotten soft from water intrusion.

The Process: After drying out the wood as best as possible, I used GitRot to add strength back to the wood. I did this by drilling about 12 holes in the top later of gelcoat/fiberglass and into the wood to inject the GitRot. To my surprise after injecting GitRot into the area for about an hour, I found out that most of it had simply found an area over the rear sump to drain out. I had to quickly clean this area before it set up, which is not all that difficult (use vinegar). So I bought another $28 bottle of GitRot and repeated the process, but much more slowly this time. I put a little in each night for 3 nights. Finally, I filled all the drill holes with MarineTex colored to match the deck color.

The Results: The wood is not much firmer and will support my weight without sagging. There is still a void between the upper layer of fiberglass and the wood which will push down a little when stepped on. However, the structure of the floor is fine now.

Total Cost: About $58 for GitRot and $15 for MarineTex and coloring.

Would I do it again: Sure. Although I wised the fiberglass would have re-laminated to the wood but structurally the floor is now solid. Hope this helps. And an interesting note, I never noticed the heat buildup that others have spoken about.

dfmcintyre posted 09-11-2002 07:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for dfmcintyre  Send Email to dfmcintyre     
West and other products cure by an exothermic reaction, or heat production. The intensity of the reaction is dependant on the amount liquid volume vs the area covered. In other words, if you mix up, say five ounces of the stuff, and spread it out on a board to coat or laminate it, the reaction _may_ not even be noticable.

However....

Take that same five ounces, pour or mix it in a small container, say a cut down (usually available locally) beer can.

And leave it.

Pretty soon, the beer can will start smoking.

Better living through chemistry....

Don

triblet posted 09-11-2002 09:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
The heat from a pot of West System will cause
it to set faster, and get hotter, and set
faster yet, and get hotter yet, etc. The
pot will set much more quickly than your
work piece.

West Marine has a plastic pot that the West
System won't stick to. You let the poxy
set, and just pop it out. Not as much fun
as a beer can though.


Chuck

where2 posted 09-12-2002 12:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
In reality, many of the epoxies won't stick to a plastic container like a yogurt cup, a cottage cheese container, or a butter tub. So, buy the west container if you want, or use the poor man's tupperware in your garage. Prior to figuring this out, I was using waxed paper dixie cups... Since I don't drink, beer cans aren't plentiful. However, epoxies don't stick to Gatorade bottles, but the ribs on the inside make it hard to get the plug out.

One of the working principles behind Git-Rot is the fact that it is meant to be runny. I've watched my dad use this stuff for years on his 1961 Drift-R-Cruz houseboat. As a runny mess, it flows into the places where the wood has rotted out. Sometimes it does run out where you didn't want, and it takes a couple of batches to get the holes that originally allowed the stuff to run out filled, but after that you can work the cavity full of the stuff.

Not sure if anyone has tried it, but you might try pouring a batch of Git-Rot in a styrofoam cup to see if it eats it. Anyone quizzed whaler on the main component of their foam? Is it styrene?

DCPeters posted 09-21-2002 07:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for DCPeters  Send Email to DCPeters     
The foam is polyurethane...no styrene.
Road Runner posted 09-21-2002 08:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for Road Runner  Send Email to Road Runner     
Seabrook I did the floor over the fuel tank of my 73 Outrage by drilling holes in the bottom side and used West Systems with 407 filler. Inject it in the holes and clamp the wood to the fiberglass.Then fill the holes sand and paint.It glued it all back together and is solid and no holes to fix on the top side.

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