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Author Topic:   Water base Polyurethane Paint - System Three
DaveNJ posted 09-14-2002 10:31 PM ET (US)   Profile for DaveNJ   Send Email to DaveNJ  
Has anyone used System Three water based polyurethane 2 part paint ? I bought their sample paint kit and tried in a a small piece of wood and it seems good. Dried hard as a rock. No toxic dangers of the other 2 part poly paints. I would like to coat outside hull of my boat with it because it is safer to use and apply than Awlgrip, Imron or Interlux. With these paints, you need a fresh air supplied respirator which I don't have.

Any comments on what I should use ?

What safety measures have others used when rolling/tipping 2 part poly paints ?

Are folks here painting their own boats with Imron/Awlgrip or are you having pro shops do it ?

thanks,
Dave

DaveNJ posted 09-16-2002 07:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for DaveNJ  Send Email to DaveNJ     
Any thoughts ?
Cpt Quint posted 09-17-2002 09:46 AM ET (US)     Profile for Cpt Quint  Send Email to Cpt Quint     
I repaintined non skid deck w/ awlgrip 2years ago.Pretty easy there because you can hide flaws in the skid. Used 1/8 nap foam roller.The product is A+. I didnt even have to touch in the edges. I thinned and used 3 coats of primer and 3 coats of paint all 2 part mix so it took 6 applications 24 hours apart but was well worth it.
whalersailer posted 09-19-2002 03:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalersailer  Send Email to whalersailer     
I used the System Three paint on the deck of my last sailboat for the same reasons you mentioned (plus $ - it's cheaper). While I would strongly recommend all of S3's epoxy products (I use them exclusively), I was less than pleased with the finish and durability of the paint. On my current big boat, I sprayed Awlgrip, and it looks infinitely better, not to mention that the durability will be superior as well.

As far as safety concerns for rolling and tipping the 2-part poly's go, if you are working in a WELL ventilated area and wear gloves, you should be fine. The real problems come into play when you are introducing micro-droplets in the air via spraying, or breathing the vapors in high concentration (in an unventilated area)

Good luck!

WS

DaveNJ posted 09-19-2002 03:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for DaveNJ  Send Email to DaveNJ     
Thanks for the information. I will try going with Awlgrip.

Dave

whalersailer posted 09-19-2002 03:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalersailer  Send Email to whalersailer     
Good choice!

pyacht.com has the best prices (by far) that I have been able to find on Awlgrip.

WS

DaveNJ posted 09-19-2002 09:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for DaveNJ  Send Email to DaveNJ     
whalersailor -
Thanks for the pyacht.com information. I was going to do a search tonight for somewhere to buy it because the supplier nearby me no longer carries it.

Dave

JFM posted 09-19-2002 09:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for JFM  Send Email to JFM     
Dave,
In my area (Cincinnati) no one sells Algrip either. It seems that the high end automotive paint suppliers are all selling Imron.

I used Algrip several years ago on my 47' Chris Craft Aqua Home with outstanding results. It was done more than 10 years ago and still looks new. I had a pro spray it.

I just used Imron on my 1964 Nauset with good results. However I think it would have been much better if I used a pro and waited for the humidity to go down.
Regards, Jay

whalersailer posted 09-21-2002 01:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalersailer  Send Email to whalersailer     
One tip (no pun intended!) for rolling and tipping:

before starting on the hull, get a piece of pane glass for experimentation. Do as follows:

1) mix the paint and brushing catalyst as perscribed (this will be your actuall working batch to be applied to the hull).
2) do a test patch of rolling and tipping on the pane (preferably vertically, assuming you will be painting some vertical surfaces): chances are you will see brush strokes at this point.
3) add a SMALL amount of the brushing thinner(this is crucial because once you pass the magic amount, you will have to add more mixed base to make it less runny)
4) repeat step #2. Keep doing this until the brush strokes just disappear. Keep in mind that it's a very fine line in paint consistancy between strokes disappearing and runs developing.

Most of all remember that the key to a good paint job is great preparation.

Hope this helps!

Good Luck!

WS

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