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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Toughest finish for montauk bow locker?
|Author||Topic: Toughest finish for montauk bow locker?|
posted 09-22-2002 03:49 PM ET (US)
After diciding to give up oiling all the teak on my montauk, I have finally finished varnishing almost all the wood on the boat. I am now turning my attention to the teak bow locker. As I regularly stand on it to cast and people are always running the anchor chain across it, I am looking for opinions as the the absolute toughest finish I could apply. I had originally decided on a 2-part polyurethane varnish like the one from interlux. However, reading the back of the can, it said it could be applied over clear epoxy such as epiglas (I understand this to be a clear fiberglass resin). The back of the epiglas can says it can be used for sealing wood. I am now considering either several coats of epiglas with 2 or 3 coats of the 2 part polyurethane varnish over the top -or- If the epiglas looks good enough, maybe 3-4 coats of that would provide a suitable finish. Has anyone out there tried this approach? I am willing to give up a moderate amound of cosmetic perfection for a finish I can really fish on top of. Thanks for any help.
posted 09-22-2002 05:49 PM ET (US)
In a word......don't.
No matter how hard the two part stuff is advertising as indestructable, it isn't. Even using the West system clear epoxy, it will still start to show scratches from shoes that have sand and other stuff in them.
Since you've taken care of the oiling hassle and traded it for the varnish hassle, I'd just keep the bow hatch oiled.
posted 09-22-2002 08:30 PM ET (US)
I expect that any finish I put on the front locker is going to get scratches. I am looking for a finish that will not require complete overhaul (ie. sanding all the way to the wood) every few months. I am hoping that a harder finish like epiglas or 2-part polyurethane will only require a light sand and a recoat once a year. Has anyone out there actually used the epiglas as a finish for wood? Thanks again-
posted 09-23-2002 08:21 AM ET (US)
You also could try adding some nonslip particles to the top coat of the varnish or polyurethane. This would give a durable finish that looks good and is easy to repair or touch up as needed. The frosted looking finish also would protect wet feet or boat shoes from slipping.
posted 09-23-2002 09:25 AM ET (US)
I have used Interlux Interthan Plus for the rub rails of a John boat I built. The stuff is amazingly tough. However, it does have a drawback you should be aware of. It must be maintianed. Annual sanding and a coat or two will be fine. Yet, if cracks develop and it becomes necessary to re do the whole piece, the stuff can not be chemically removed. It must be sanded off.
posted 09-23-2002 09:43 AM ET (US)
I agree with DFM, Speck.
I don't think any coating you can put over the teak will hold up as well as oiled teak.
Red sky at night. . .
posted 09-23-2002 11:14 AM ET (US)
That is why I opt for Starboard, not as pretty but much easier on the head and hands.
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