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keltonkrew posted 10-10-2002 11:02 AM ET (US)
Been looking at painting my 13'. I've been going back and forth paint - re-gelcoat, paint...etc.
Many have mentioned alwgrip, imron, interlux, etc. I look at all and they all say above waterline only. The only thing I can find below waterline is antifouling. I don't want anti-fouling as my boat never stays in the water for more than 3 days (fresh water), 1 day in salt water. My boat currently has bottom paint and I cant wait to take it off (most has come off on it's own anyway).
What type of paint can I use on the bottom of my hull that will hold up to being trailered and not having to be repainted every 4-5 years.
I know this has been covered before, but can't seem to find any definite answers.
Thanks guys!
DaveNJ posted 10-10-2002 11:58 AM ET (US)
keltonkrew -
Like you, I considered painting my 1968 13' whaler. When I saw what it was going to cost for Awlgrip (2 part primers, reducers, 2 part White, 2 part Blue, etc. check out www.pyacht.com for prices) and I quickly changed my mind on painting.
I am glad I did. If your hull is just heavily oxidized with a few fiberglass and gelcoat repairs you can bring it back.
See http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000680.html
The teal blue interior of my whaler was almost white, it was so oxidized. But I have tried what was recommended in the above thread and it has worked great. I have not even gotten to the Collinite boat wax step yet and it looks like new. I can hardly believe it! The original gelcoat color is great and it is hard to match either by Spectrum (was a bit too dark on mine, but for small spot repairs - OK) or by painting. It does take some work but at least try a 2' x 2' section and see for yourself. In my opinion I would try to avoid painting. It is very expensive too and if nicked or damaged, it is not as easy to restore as gelcoat.
good luck,
Dave
keltonkrew posted 10-10-2002 01:49 PM ET (US)
I don't think that is an option for mine. My hull has been bottom painted and the remainder has been brush painted, some repair areas etc. I have to either paint or re-gel coat. I don't mind spending $300-$500 to do it, just wondering which paint.
John W posted 10-10-2002 04:46 PM ET (US)
If you keep your boat in the water for a couple of days or less, you can use 2 part epoxy paint on the bottom as well as the hullsides...lots of people do that with trailer boats. But if you leave your boat in the water for a couple of days or more, the paint will get tiny blisters in it that will weaken the adhesion of the paint & eventually lead to premature failure of the paint. Having said that, I've had two boats painted all over with polyurethane topsides paint that I would keep in the water for a week once a year, I would get small blisters in the paint but they dried out after a few days out of the water & never seemed to cause a big problem.
There are a few non-antifouling paints made for below the waterline use...Interlux makes one I believe, I can't remember the name of it, but it's an epoxy paint that is only available in white & cannot be tinted. (It is primarily designed for the bottoms of day-sailed racing sailboats). The finish is dull, not shiny like polyurethane topsides paints, so you won't want to paint your entire hull with it. You'll still have to draw a waterline & paint this on the bottom & use topsides paints on the hullsides, just as if you were repainting the bottom with antifouling paint.
You didn't mention the year of your boat, if it's a blue/white older model, you'd be painting white agianst white...a waterline would show between the two different paints but it would look fine I'd imagine. If it's a later model you'd have a white bottom with desert tan sides, you can see an example of this on Cetacia page 32 on a 20' Revenge on a lift (it looks like the type of paint I'm talking about). I personally wouldn't like the looks of that on a small boat like a 13'.
If you don't want a white bottom, there are non-antifouling bottom paints in "hard racing bronze", but the boat will look just like you have antifouling paint on it. Of course you could use a hard antifouling paint on the bottom, even though it'll stay on a trailer, but I'm assuming you don't want that look.
Regardless of what you paint on the bottom, I would highly reccommend Sterling brand polyurethane paint if you are going to paint the boat yourself using a 2 part polyurethane topsides paint. Do a search on the board for Sterling, I've written some lengthy threads on my experience with 2 part paints.
Bert22 posted 10-10-2002 05:34 PM ET (US)
I have come accross a paint that will hold up under the warer line and looks almost as good as gel coat and is designed for the do-it yourselfer . It is expensive but what you save by doing it your self makes up for it . I first saw it on ShipShape TV and I recently tried it . It is called SIGNATURE Marine Finish . He also has a teak product called Honey Teak.You can get it on the web at www.fabulainc.com or call him and speak with Tom Fabula (Pres.) He is very helpful. His # is 1-772-287-1559 I hope this helps !
Paint Legend posted 10-11-2002 05:33 PM ET (US)
I have an Interlux product called VC Underwater Epoxy on 3 of my boats (2 sailboats). This is a great product - white in color (doesn't match BWs), non-antifouling, it is a water-barrier, has teflon in the coating so it is a hard fast bottom. I tinted it to match my gelcoat, I talked my local Sherwin Williams Commercial store into selling me some tints for epoxies. I have been very pleased and the surface washs well also.
I also sell AWL-GRIP (non-commisoned) and have helped out quite a few guys with their painting projects. Contact me if you have any questions. Tight Loops and Tim Reape (hope you don't mind)come to mind and they had very good results. They sounded like pretty handy guys also. I give guys from this site very good pricing - I'm just trying to help, really. Especially when I hear about the pricing they are getting from other sources. In fact, I also have the BW Blue matched and in stock if needed.
Whatever you decide to do, good luck.
Tom
NHKatama posted 10-11-2002 06:07 PM ET (US)
I have a 1972 17 Katama with the blue interior, I was planning on getting some of the nicks on both the hull and interior repaired before I mount the new engine. After that is done, does anyone have any good ideas how to buff out any minor scratches, and then restore some of the color back to the blue, the interior is not too faded, the boat has been kept under cover most of its life, but the hull could use some good compounding to whiten it up a bit. Anyway if anyone has a product that they have used that works well please let me know thanks,
keltonkrew posted 10-12-2002 08:02 AM ET (US)
Paint Legend
I sent you an email. You've peaked my interest. Would like more info on the VC epoxy with teflon.
John W posted 10-14-2002 05:11 PM ET (US)
The VC Epoxy was the white below-waterline paint that I was refferring to. I did not realize that you could tint it. In any case, if you use that paint, you won't want it on your entire hullsides & you'll want to draw a watreline & use topsides paint on the sides. If you want white hullsides then you obviously won't need to tint the VC paint on the bottom.
John from Sandy Hook posted 10-19-2002 12:18 AM ET (US)
Paint Legend:
I have a 1972 Sakonnet with the blue interior and would like to refinish the non-skid surface. I will send you and email.
Thanks,
John
jsansburn@earthlink.net
timbo posted 10-28-2002 08:49 PM ET (US)
If you realllllllly wanted to spiff up the boat, an attractive way to incorporate the white paint and keep the look is to gel goat the whaler dark blue as in the new pictures on the catacea. Gel coat the boat dark blue than use the white paint, I think it is a very distinct classic look. This is a big project but it would be georgous.
bhoagland posted 05-18-2009 11:49 PM ET (US)
I'm in the process of barrier coating my 1964 13' Sport and purchased VC Performance after reading that it was recommended for trailered boats and boats stored on racks. After reading further it appears that VC may not be suitable above the waterline, probably from UV deterioration. Does anyone have experience using VC Performance above the waterline?

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Author	Topic: Another painting topic
keltonkrew	posted 10-10-2002 11:02 AM ET (US) Been looking at painting my 13'. I've been going back and forth paint - re-gelcoat, paint...etc. Many have mentioned alwgrip, imron, interlux, etc. I look at all and they all say above waterline only. The only thing I can find below waterline is antifouling. I don't want anti-fouling as my boat never stays in the water for more than 3 days (fresh water), 1 day in salt water. My boat currently has bottom paint and I cant wait to take it off (most has come off on it's own anyway). What type of paint can I use on the bottom of my hull that will hold up to being trailered and not having to be repainted every 4-5 years. I know this has been covered before, but can't seem to find any definite answers. Thanks guys!
DaveNJ	posted 10-10-2002 11:58 AM ET (US) keltonkrew - Like you, I considered painting my 1968 13' whaler. When I saw what it was going to cost for Awlgrip (2 part primers, reducers, 2 part White, 2 part Blue, etc. check out www.pyacht.com for prices) and I quickly changed my mind on painting. I am glad I did. If your hull is just heavily oxidized with a few fiberglass and gelcoat repairs you can bring it back. See http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000680.html The teal blue interior of my whaler was almost white, it was so oxidized. But I have tried what was recommended in the above thread and it has worked great. I have not even gotten to the Collinite boat wax step yet and it looks like new. I can hardly believe it! The original gelcoat color is great and it is hard to match either by Spectrum (was a bit too dark on mine, but for small spot repairs - OK) or by painting. It does take some work but at least try a 2' x 2' section and see for yourself. In my opinion I would try to avoid painting. It is very expensive too and if nicked or damaged, it is not as easy to restore as gelcoat. good luck, Dave
keltonkrew	posted 10-10-2002 01:49 PM ET (US) I don't think that is an option for mine. My hull has been bottom painted and the remainder has been brush painted, some repair areas etc. I have to either paint or re-gel coat. I don't mind spending $300-$500 to do it, just wondering which paint.
John W	posted 10-10-2002 04:46 PM ET (US) If you keep your boat in the water for a couple of days or less, you can use 2 part epoxy paint on the bottom as well as the hullsides...lots of people do that with trailer boats. But if you leave your boat in the water for a couple of days or more, the paint will get tiny blisters in it that will weaken the adhesion of the paint & eventually lead to premature failure of the paint. Having said that, I've had two boats painted all over with polyurethane topsides paint that I would keep in the water for a week once a year, I would get small blisters in the paint but they dried out after a few days out of the water & never seemed to cause a big problem. There are a few non-antifouling paints made for below the waterline use...Interlux makes one I believe, I can't remember the name of it, but it's an epoxy paint that is only available in white & cannot be tinted. (It is primarily designed for the bottoms of day-sailed racing sailboats). The finish is dull, not shiny like polyurethane topsides paints, so you won't want to paint your entire hull with it. You'll still have to draw a waterline & paint this on the bottom & use topsides paints on the hullsides, just as if you were repainting the bottom with antifouling paint. You didn't mention the year of your boat, if it's a blue/white older model, you'd be painting white agianst white...a waterline would show between the two different paints but it would look fine I'd imagine. If it's a later model you'd have a white bottom with desert tan sides, you can see an example of this on Cetacia page 32 on a 20' Revenge on a lift (it looks like the type of paint I'm talking about). I personally wouldn't like the looks of that on a small boat like a 13'. If you don't want a white bottom, there are non-antifouling bottom paints in "hard racing bronze", but the boat will look just like you have antifouling paint on it. Of course you could use a hard antifouling paint on the bottom, even though it'll stay on a trailer, but I'm assuming you don't want that look. Regardless of what you paint on the bottom, I would highly reccommend Sterling brand polyurethane paint if you are going to paint the boat yourself using a 2 part polyurethane topsides paint. Do a search on the board for Sterling, I've written some lengthy threads on my experience with 2 part paints.
Bert22	posted 10-10-2002 05:34 PM ET (US) I have come accross a paint that will hold up under the warer line and looks almost as good as gel coat and is designed for the do-it yourselfer . It is expensive but what you save by doing it your self makes up for it . I first saw it on ShipShape TV and I recently tried it . It is called SIGNATURE Marine Finish . He also has a teak product called Honey Teak.You can get it on the web at www.fabulainc.com or call him and speak with Tom Fabula (Pres.) He is very helpful. His # is 1-772-287-1559 I hope this helps !
Paint Legend	posted 10-11-2002 05:33 PM ET (US) I have an Interlux product called VC Underwater Epoxy on 3 of my boats (2 sailboats). This is a great product - white in color (doesn't match BWs), non-antifouling, it is a water-barrier, has teflon in the coating so it is a hard fast bottom. I tinted it to match my gelcoat, I talked my local Sherwin Williams Commercial store into selling me some tints for epoxies. I have been very pleased and the surface washs well also. I also sell AWL-GRIP (non-commisoned) and have helped out quite a few guys with their painting projects. Contact me if you have any questions. Tight Loops and Tim Reape (hope you don't mind)come to mind and they had very good results. They sounded like pretty handy guys also. I give guys from this site very good pricing - I'm just trying to help, really. Especially when I hear about the pricing they are getting from other sources. In fact, I also have the BW Blue matched and in stock if needed. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. Tom
NHKatama	posted 10-11-2002 06:07 PM ET (US) I have a 1972 17 Katama with the blue interior, I was planning on getting some of the nicks on both the hull and interior repaired before I mount the new engine. After that is done, does anyone have any good ideas how to buff out any minor scratches, and then restore some of the color back to the blue, the interior is not too faded, the boat has been kept under cover most of its life, but the hull could use some good compounding to whiten it up a bit. Anyway if anyone has a product that they have used that works well please let me know thanks,
keltonkrew	posted 10-12-2002 08:02 AM ET (US) Paint Legend I sent you an email. You've peaked my interest. Would like more info on the VC epoxy with teflon.
John W	posted 10-14-2002 05:11 PM ET (US) The VC Epoxy was the white below-waterline paint that I was refferring to. I did not realize that you could tint it. In any case, if you use that paint, you won't want it on your entire hullsides & you'll want to draw a watreline & use topsides paint on the sides. If you want white hullsides then you obviously won't need to tint the VC paint on the bottom.
John from Sandy Hook	posted 10-19-2002 12:18 AM ET (US) Paint Legend: I have a 1972 Sakonnet with the blue interior and would like to refinish the non-skid surface. I will send you and email. Thanks, John jsansburn@earthlink.net
timbo	posted 10-28-2002 08:49 PM ET (US) If you realllllllly wanted to spiff up the boat, an attractive way to incorporate the white paint and keep the look is to gel goat the whaler dark blue as in the new pictures on the catacea. Gel coat the boat dark blue than use the white paint, I think it is a very distinct classic look. This is a big project but it would be georgous.
bhoagland	posted 05-18-2009 11:49 PM ET (US) I'm in the process of barrier coating my 1964 13' Sport and purchased VC Performance after reading that it was recommended for trailered boats and boats stored on racks. After reading further it appears that VC may not be suitable above the waterline, probably from UV deterioration. Does anyone have experience using VC Performance above the waterline?