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Author Topic:   rps screws pulled out
njboland posted 10-10-2002 11:49 AM ET (US)   Profile for njboland   Send Email to njboland  
Greetings all. I have searched to no avail in the prior postings, so please forgive me if this has already been covered. The mounting screws on my 1986 Montauk RPS pulled out yesterday and the entire unit flipped over. What is the best way to re-seat the screws? Epoxy etc. Thanks for your thoughts. Nick
Cpt Quint posted 10-10-2002 12:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for Cpt Quint  Send Email to Cpt Quint     
in general, slightly larger screw (although note that it only has to be long enough to go through the deck and the embedded wood-see diagram in reference section)and then you can go 5200 or epoxy. This depends on whether or not you entend for this to be truely permenant or not. West Systems Epoxy
on stainless screws into embedded wood will not come out without pulling out the wood and matting.
newt posted 10-10-2002 01:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for newt  Send Email to newt     
Ditto, Cpt Quint is right on. In general, if you overdrill the hole, fill with epoxy, drill a pilot hole, and re-install your screws, they should hold nicely.
njboland posted 10-10-2002 01:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for njboland  Send Email to njboland     
Thanks Capt Quint. If I understand you correctly, 5200 will not be "permanent", meaning if I ever want to remove the rps, I can without destroying the deck. Please advise. Regards.
JBCornwell posted 10-10-2002 02:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for JBCornwell  Send Email to JBCornwell     
Hi, NJB.

I would recommend drilling the holes out to 1/2" and epoxying in Whaleboard plugs.

Then drill and tap the whaleboard for 5/16" X 1-1/2" SS machine screws.

Your screws pulled out almost surely because the wood that was holding them got soft (rot?). It seems to me a good idea to remove the soft wood.

I don't trust epoxy without fiber reinforcing to hold screws.

Red sky at night. . .

newt posted 10-10-2002 02:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for newt  Send Email to newt     

Just curious, have you encountered problems in the past with epoxy and screws? I know you advocate the whaleboard plugs, but you are still trusting the epoxy to hold the plug in.

I wonder if I have set myself up for a future maintanance problem with the epoxy work I have done!

lhg posted 10-10-2002 02:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Use a 1/2" drill to drill out the old stripped out wood underneath the non-skid.

Then carefully mask the holes so epoxy doesn't get on the non-skid, and re-drill.
The new screw will then sit in a waterproof surrounding, and should last a lifetime, with out any further wood rotting underneath. With the seat re-installed, none of the epoxy work will show.

I have found white Marine-Tex the cleanest and easiest epoxy to use, and it bonds well to the plywood underlayment. Spills & excess wash up with water.

Cpt Quint posted 10-10-2002 02:11 PM ET (US)     Profile for Cpt Quint  Send Email to Cpt Quint     
JB's how to is the most popular version of doing this and the most proffesional. As far as the 5200, I think it is a good watertight bedding compound but you can back a screw out of it. You can not with West Systems without the possibility or tearing the wood.
njboland posted 10-10-2002 02:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for njboland  Send Email to njboland     
Thanks to you all for your input!
newt posted 10-10-2002 02:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for newt  Send Email to newt     
Cpt Quint,

I must respectfully disagree with your statement about backing a screw out of the epoxy.

Follow these steps.

1. Drill 1/2" holes to remove rotted wood.
2. Fill holes with epoxy.
3. Allow epoxy to cure
4. Drill pilot holes.
5. Install original screws.(as an option, coat threads with 5200 sealant)

If the epoxy is allow to cure, the screws will back out with no problem.

Whalerdan posted 10-15-2002 03:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdan  Send Email to Whalerdan     
I had this problem on some console holes that I recently redid.

When you do the epoxy file the hole only 1/2 to 1/3 full, and let the stuff start to harden (not fully set up) then fill the remaining.

If you don't do this the epoxy will start getting hot and out gas (i.e. bubbles kind of like boiling water). Then you will have bubbles permenantly in your repair.

weekendwarrior posted 10-20-2002 09:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for weekendwarrior  Send Email to weekendwarrior     
I recently moved a console from one boat to another and the bottom edges of the console were sealed with 5200. A lot of it peeled up OK, some areas took parts of the deck with it. Maybe they make something to release it?
Sammy posted 10-23-2002 01:10 AM ET (US)     Profile for Sammy  Send Email to Sammy     

Not sure if there is a releasing agent. Contact 3M, if anyone has the info they will.

Your experience is the reason that 5200 has earned the nickname 52-million. 4200 - another 3M product - is watertight, is rated for below the waterline applications, stays flexible and doesn't have 52-million's gorilla grip. Life Caulk brand polysulfide caulk has performance characteristics similar to 4200.

acassidy posted 10-30-2002 02:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for acassidy  Send Email to acassidy     
Will epoxy resin hold a screw and not break if it does not have a filler added to it like Marine Tex has? I would think that filling the hole with pure epoxy resin would give you something without strength and brittle to screw into. Or is Epoxy resin strong enough to do this with out breaking? I have used epoxy resin in repairs with fiberglass or to waterproof wood but never alone like this. But I have used Marine Tex for repairs, and it is not doubt super strong stuff. Archie

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