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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
rps screws pulled out
|Author||Topic: rps screws pulled out|
posted 10-10-2002 11:49 AM ET (US)
Greetings all. I have searched to no avail in the prior postings, so please forgive me if this has already been covered. The mounting screws on my 1986 Montauk RPS pulled out yesterday and the entire unit flipped over. What is the best way to re-seat the screws? Epoxy etc. Thanks for your thoughts. Nick
posted 10-10-2002 12:59 PM ET (US)
in general, slightly larger screw (although note that it only has to be long enough to go through the deck and the embedded wood-see diagram in reference section)and then you can go 5200 or epoxy. This depends on whether or not you entend for this to be truely permenant or not. West Systems Epoxy
on stainless screws into embedded wood will not come out without pulling out the wood and matting.
posted 10-10-2002 01:35 PM ET (US)
Ditto, Cpt Quint is right on. In general, if you overdrill the hole, fill with epoxy, drill a pilot hole, and re-install your screws, they should hold nicely.
posted 10-10-2002 01:37 PM ET (US)
Thanks Capt Quint. If I understand you correctly, 5200 will not be "permanent", meaning if I ever want to remove the rps, I can without destroying the deck. Please advise. Regards.
posted 10-10-2002 02:04 PM ET (US)
I would recommend drilling the holes out to 1/2" and epoxying in Whaleboard plugs.
Then drill and tap the whaleboard for 5/16" X 1-1/2" SS machine screws.
Your screws pulled out almost surely because the wood that was holding them got soft (rot?). It seems to me a good idea to remove the soft wood.
I don't trust epoxy without fiber reinforcing to hold screws.
Red sky at night. . .
posted 10-10-2002 02:10 PM ET (US)
Just curious, have you encountered problems in the past with epoxy and screws? I know you advocate the whaleboard plugs, but you are still trusting the epoxy to hold the plug in.
I wonder if I have set myself up for a future maintanance problem with the epoxy work I have done!
posted 10-10-2002 02:10 PM ET (US)
Use a 1/2" drill to drill out the old stripped out wood underneath the non-skid.
Then carefully mask the holes so epoxy doesn't get on the non-skid, and re-drill.
I have found white Marine-Tex the cleanest and easiest epoxy to use, and it bonds well to the plywood underlayment. Spills & excess wash up with water.
posted 10-10-2002 02:11 PM ET (US)
JB's how to is the most popular version of doing this and the most proffesional. As far as the 5200, I think it is a good watertight bedding compound but you can back a screw out of it. You can not with West Systems without the possibility or tearing the wood.
posted 10-10-2002 02:16 PM ET (US)
Thanks to you all for your input!
posted 10-10-2002 02:18 PM ET (US)
I must respectfully disagree with your statement about backing a screw out of the epoxy.
Follow these steps.
1. Drill 1/2" holes to remove rotted wood.
If the epoxy is allow to cure, the screws will back out with no problem.
posted 10-15-2002 03:05 PM ET (US)
I had this problem on some console holes that I recently redid.
When you do the epoxy file the hole only 1/2 to 1/3 full, and let the stuff start to harden (not fully set up) then fill the remaining.
If you don't do this the epoxy will start getting hot and out gas (i.e. bubbles kind of like boiling water). Then you will have bubbles permenantly in your repair.
posted 10-20-2002 09:28 PM ET (US)
I recently moved a console from one boat to another and the bottom edges of the console were sealed with 5200. A lot of it peeled up OK, some areas took parts of the deck with it. Maybe they make something to release it?
posted 10-23-2002 01:10 AM ET (US)
Not sure if there is a releasing agent. Contact 3M, if anyone has the info they will.
Your experience is the reason that 5200 has earned the nickname 52-million. 4200 - another 3M product - is watertight, is rated for below the waterline applications, stays flexible and doesn't have 52-million's gorilla grip. Life Caulk brand polysulfide caulk has performance characteristics similar to 4200.
posted 10-30-2002 02:07 PM ET (US)
Will epoxy resin hold a screw and not break if it does not have a filler added to it like Marine Tex has? I would think that filling the hole with pure epoxy resin would give you something without strength and brittle to screw into. Or is Epoxy resin strong enough to do this with out breaking? I have used epoxy resin in repairs with fiberglass or to waterproof wood but never alone like this. But I have used Marine Tex for repairs, and it is not doubt super strong stuff. Archie
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