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Author Topic:   Bilge Pump Replacement
NedsPoint posted 10-14-2002 11:39 AM ET (US)   Profile for NedsPoint   Send Email to NedsPoint  
Any recommendations on replacing the bilge pump on my Newport. Its a cheap Rule with a stand-alone float switch. The problems
1) any connections constantly rust, degrade and eventually break
2) any debris clog the pump.
I am think of a float/pump integrated model to eliminate at least some of the wiring. Any experience?
lhg posted 10-14-2002 04:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
I believe BW's factory installation of late was a self contained float switch Attwood 500gph pump. Not the electronic kind, however, which cycle endlessly. The Attwoods are square boxy looking things, and have been around for many years.
Jay A posted 10-14-2002 04:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jay A    
The connections: 1st Buy some shrink tubing from Radio Shack. 2nd Always solder your connections then clean them with alcohol. 3rd Slip the shrink tubing over the solder joint and heat with a lighter or match. And for added protection wrap the joint with electrical tape. As far as the pump being clogged, I have a Rule 20A (1100 gph) and it is mounted on a 8 to 12 degree angle along with the float switch, this helps prevent clogging. Always check your bilge for debris before and after you use your boat!
daverdla posted 10-14-2002 06:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for daverdla  Send Email to daverdla     
My montauk has the Attwood 500 with a built in float switch. As Larry's said they are boxy which is good. Its fits neatly in the bilge. I would recommend soldering the connections too but for heat shrink, try the Anchor products. They are expensive but they are lined with glue to make them waterproof. Much better than standard.

The wiring as shipped with the pump is long enough to get to my battery box in the stern where the splices are somewhat protected.

Jay is right about looking for debris. A small piece of electrical insulation made its way into my bildge (I can't imagine how) and clogged the pump. No big deal except - I forgot to put a smaller fuse at the panel switch. Consequently, my motor continued to try to run until it cooked itself. Off to the store for bilge pump number 2 in less than a week. I now vacuum my boat after all maintenance procedures.

triblet posted 10-14-2002 08:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
It's fine stuff at home, but on a boat you
want the Ancor heat shrink that's lined with
hot melt glue (it's, BTW, not epoxy) that
ments and glues the heat shrink to the wire
as the heat shrink shrinks.

You can get the Ancor at West Marine, etc.

Also, the Rule pumps have an SS screen.
I have to clean it every 50-100 hours, mostly
to get sand and little bits of kelp off.



NedsPoint posted 10-15-2002 06:38 AM ET (US)     Profile for NedsPoint  Send Email to NedsPoint     
Guys - Thanks, all good tips. I think the important thing you mentioned is to get a pump with the original wiring long enough to get me out of my bilge prior to making connections. BTW, I have used shrink tubing on connection to the pump....they corrode out pretty quickly.
The pumps get clogged with miniscule shellfish (conch-liek shells) that come out of my lobster pots. I need to put a fine screen over the open part of my bilge opening (where the engine cable egress.

Thanks again.

Smallfrye posted 10-15-2002 10:21 AM ET (US)     Profile for Smallfrye  Send Email to Smallfrye     
Heat shrink... ? I prefer liquid PVC. Paint a few lite coats on any electrical connection and it is sealed. This works well on splices (which are much easier and more reliable than solder connections)or directly on terminal blocks or other terminal types.
Most electrical suppliers have this on the shelf.
bluewater posted 10-16-2002 12:50 AM ET (US)     Profile for bluewater  Send Email to bluewater     
Try the attwood 500. I just bought one this year for around $40 and it works just fine. Don't worry about wire length either. The factory installed wire on the pump reaches up to my RPS, even past it. Even so, I just hooked the pump straight to the battery. No fuses, no problems, no nothing. Just a thought...


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