What Type Of Drill Bit For A One Inch Hole - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  What Type Of Drill Bit For A One Inch Hole

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   What Type Of Drill Bit For A One Inch Hole

Jimm posted 10-30-2002 07:20 PM ET (US)
I'm adding a larger fuel tank and in the process have to move the 1 " diameter hole through which the fuel line exits the tunnel and non-skid floor. Would a forstner drill bit due the trick or is their another type? When drilling downward I've got to be careful not to hit any existing wires and cables. When patching the old hole which is also an inch wide and about an inch deep is the West System the easy way to go?....Jimm
andygere posted 10-30-2002 07:28 PM ET (US)
I'd suggest a 1-inch hole saw. A forstner bit would probably work, buy the bit will get dulled cutting through the fiberglass.
Drisney posted 10-30-2002 09:59 PM ET (US)
I think that the Forstner bit will chew up the fiberglass beyond the hole. I would use a hole saw also. I would also use a sharp sheetrock knife around a circle guide to scribe and cut the surface/gelcoat to avoid tearout. Dave
Arch Autenreith posted 10-30-2002 10:21 PM ET (US)
I used a forstner bit in the floor to enlargen the RPS leg screw holes (before filling with epoxy to make stronger). There is plywood backing but it didn't splinter that much on the underside anyhow.
I would think the forstner will give a cleaner cut on the surface going through the gelcoat (if that's an issue).
I didn't seem to notice if it dulled the bit but I didn't look at it carefully afterwards.
Just me thoughts.
tully_mars posted 10-30-2002 10:36 PM ET (US)
I just installed one of these on my Montauk and used the hole saw bit. Worked extremely well with a very clean hole. I wouldn't take a chance with anything else, just drill slowly.
Tully Mars
OutrageMan posted 10-31-2002 12:12 AM ET (US)
I would also use a hole saw, but I would do a few things to make a cleaner hole.
1) Mask the area with masking tape. This will help reduce chip-out and protect to surrounding area in case you slip.
2) Once the pilot bit has entered the work and the hole saw is about to make contact, try reversing the drill for a bit. This will have the effect of scoring the surface and again protecting from chip-out. Once the scoring is done, switch back to normal operations.
Brian
OutrageMan posted 10-31-2002 12:14 AM ET (US)
As far as the patch goes,, yes West will be fine. You will need to back up the patch first. I would use putty epoxy first, then after that cures, lay the glass over that.
Brian
ratherwhalering posted 10-31-2002 01:00 PM ET (US)
I used a hole saw with great results for this exact project. Once the main bit begins its hole, stop, shorten the pilot bit, and then continue. This way, your pilot will not damage any wiring or cables in the tube. You may want to check out my article abouit this project in the reference section...
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/onDeckFuelTank.html
Jimm posted 10-31-2002 01:40 PM ET (US)
Thanks, "ratherwhaling", your article is helping a great deal - especially the idea to shorten up on the hole saw bit. For everyones info the hole through the floor into the rigging tunnel on the 2003 Montauk is 1 and 1/16 inches. Naturally the chain stores only carry 1" and 1 1/8 inch hole saws.
triblet posted 11-02-2002 12:16 PM ET (US)
http://www.mcmaster.com/ has
1 1/16" hole saws.
Chuck

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: What Type Of Drill Bit For A One Inch Hole
Jimm	posted 10-30-2002 07:20 PM ET (US) I'm adding a larger fuel tank and in the process have to move the 1 " diameter hole through which the fuel line exits the tunnel and non-skid floor. Would a forstner drill bit due the trick or is their another type? When drilling downward I've got to be careful not to hit any existing wires and cables. When patching the old hole which is also an inch wide and about an inch deep is the West System the easy way to go?....Jimm
andygere	posted 10-30-2002 07:28 PM ET (US) I'd suggest a 1-inch hole saw. A forstner bit would probably work, buy the bit will get dulled cutting through the fiberglass.
Drisney	posted 10-30-2002 09:59 PM ET (US) I think that the Forstner bit will chew up the fiberglass beyond the hole. I would use a hole saw also. I would also use a sharp sheetrock knife around a circle guide to scribe and cut the surface/gelcoat to avoid tearout. Dave
Arch Autenreith	posted 10-30-2002 10:21 PM ET (US) I used a forstner bit in the floor to enlargen the RPS leg screw holes (before filling with epoxy to make stronger). There is plywood backing but it didn't splinter that much on the underside anyhow. I would think the forstner will give a cleaner cut on the surface going through the gelcoat (if that's an issue). I didn't seem to notice if it dulled the bit but I didn't look at it carefully afterwards. Just me thoughts.
tully_mars	posted 10-30-2002 10:36 PM ET (US) I just installed one of these on my Montauk and used the hole saw bit. Worked extremely well with a very clean hole. I wouldn't take a chance with anything else, just drill slowly. Tully Mars
OutrageMan	posted 10-31-2002 12:12 AM ET (US) I would also use a hole saw, but I would do a few things to make a cleaner hole. 1) Mask the area with masking tape. This will help reduce chip-out and protect to surrounding area in case you slip. 2) Once the pilot bit has entered the work and the hole saw is about to make contact, try reversing the drill for a bit. This will have the effect of scoring the surface and again protecting from chip-out. Once the scoring is done, switch back to normal operations. Brian
OutrageMan	posted 10-31-2002 12:14 AM ET (US) As far as the patch goes,, yes West will be fine. You will need to back up the patch first. I would use putty epoxy first, then after that cures, lay the glass over that. Brian
ratherwhalering	posted 10-31-2002 01:00 PM ET (US) I used a hole saw with great results for this exact project. Once the main bit begins its hole, stop, shorten the pilot bit, and then continue. This way, your pilot will not damage any wiring or cables in the tube. You may want to check out my article abouit this project in the reference section... http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/onDeckFuelTank.html
Jimm	posted 10-31-2002 01:40 PM ET (US) Thanks, "ratherwhaling", your article is helping a great deal - especially the idea to shorten up on the hole saw bit. For everyones info the hole through the floor into the rigging tunnel on the 2003 Montauk is 1 and 1/16 inches. Naturally the chain stores only carry 1" and 1 1/8 inch hole saws.
triblet	posted 11-02-2002 12:16 PM ET (US) http://www.mcmaster.com/ has 1 1/16" hole saws. Chuck