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Author Topic:   Teak restoration basics
glp72659 posted 11-08-2002 09:57 PM ET (US)   Profile for glp72659   Send Email to glp72659  
New to board. I'm restoring a 1979 20 foot Outrage for a friend in exchange for use of boat. Friend wants to use Cetol (this is a given). Would someone please walk me through the steps necessary to do a really good job. Thanks, Greg
Sixer posted 11-10-2002 06:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for Sixer    
Try this site;

Barry posted 11-10-2002 08:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for Barry  Send Email to Barry     
Or better yet, search continuousWave.
Taylor posted 11-11-2002 01:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for Taylor  Send Email to Taylor     
Greg, welcome to the forum. This is one of the really popular topic's here. More poular even than PWC's and Merc's :) Use the search tool and look for teak. You should find threads with lively discussions on the topic. We've debated varnish vs oil, different types of oils, refinishing on or off the boat. There was even a discussion of how to and if you should take the gunwale boards off an Outrage. (I can't recall the outcome). Have fun, search, them feel free to ask follou-ps.
Barry posted 11-11-2002 06:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for Barry  Send Email to Barry     
What condition is the wood in now and was how was it previously maintained (oil, Cetol, varnish)?

According to the preparation instructions on the Cetol can for:

Exterior/interior - previously coated wood
Remove all previous coatings by either: A) sanding with 80-120 grit sandpaper. Finish sanding interior brightwork with 180-220 grit sandpaper. Remove all sanding dust. OR B) using a wax-free marine chemical stripper. And then sanding using 80-120 grit sandpaper and dust off using a brush, vacuum or tack rag.

Exterior - weathered wood, or previously oiled wood
Remove all dirt and oil from the surface using a teak cleaner. Let the surface dry and sand with 80-120 grit sandpaper.

You will get/find different opinions on this site on the subject of wood prep, whether or not to use teak cleaners, and if you use them what kind to use. Regardless of whether you use teak cleaner or not you will probably need to sand. My only question is how much to sand.

I'm actually in the process of doing this on my '88 22' OR WD. I first removed all the wood except for the gunnels. This included all the wood on the console (doors, door trim, fire extinguisher pocket trim, and rod holders), the under-gunnel rod racks, cooler brackets, and the wood trim pieces around the rear deck. I actually removed the pieces that make up the enclosed area in front of the full transom.

I then sanded the wood to remove the old finishes. Previously the teak had been oiled and the mahogany varnished. I used a random orbital sander connected to a shop vac (to collect the dust) for most of the work. I initially sanded with 80 grit and then finished with 220. I also used a detail sander with triangular head with 80 and 150. After sanding I vacuumed and wiped to get rid of the dust.

I then applied the Cetol. While the instructions say to "apply liberally using a long-haired natural bristle brush", I found a small foam brush works fine. Be careful on the "liberal", you don't want the stuff to pool. I typically do the underside first, then flip and do the top side. Underside in this case being the side toward the deck, back, or inside of console. Obviously you need to rig something to set the coated underside on that will minimize contact until dry. This allows me to do a complete coat in one shot and since it says to allow 24 hours drying time between coats, this means less days per piece.

The can recommends three coats. For the smoothest finish you will need to lightly scuff between coats. Note that if you do this a fourth coat is recommended. Cetol is fairly dark and the more coats the darker it gets. Also, while this finish is supposed to be a satin or semi-gloss, the more coats the glossier it gets. If you want a very high gloss use Cetol Marine Gloss on top of this.

This is the second boat I've used Cetol on. I seriously considered oil but based on the amount of work to get the wood off the boat, how easy the Cetol is to apply and how well the Cetol on the Montauk has lasted I decided to do it again. I also considered the two-part Bristol Finish and three-part Honey teak but they sounded like more work, seemed more expensive, and were not as readily available.

Sixer posted 11-11-2002 07:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for Sixer    
Anyone ever try Deks Olje?
Barry posted 11-11-2002 08:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for Barry  Send Email to Barry     
There is an article on that describes Deks Olje. The article was "Teak Trimming Tips, Caring for teak with sealants and oils" by David Brown. Go to and search for "teak" in "boat reviews, boating news, and more...".
newt posted 11-11-2002 09:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for newt  Send Email to newt     
Barry, what brand detail sander are you using? I bought a Ryobie triangular head detail sander, and found it rather ineffective. Kinda anti-climatic after the belt sander with 80 grit.
glp72659 posted 11-11-2002 09:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for glp72659  Send Email to glp72659     
Thanks everyone for the help. Greg
Barry posted 11-11-2002 11:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for Barry  Send Email to Barry     
newt, I'm using a Sears Craftsman Detail Sander. The stick-on detail sanding sheets that I picked up for it at Lowes says they fit Ryobi DS1000 and DS2000 units. It works OK but very slowly compared to my belt sander or the random orbit.
Sixer posted 11-13-2002 07:33 AM ET (US)     Profile for Sixer    
It appears the Deks is similar to the Cetol. W@ould you know if Cetol be 'touched' up or removed, the way Deks can?
lhg posted 11-13-2002 04:11 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
For applying varnish or Cetol to Whaler wood items, HANG them. I untwist, cut up and straighten a standard clothes hanger with the cardboard pants tube. Each makes two hangers for Whaler wood. Fashion the lower end into an "L" and slide it through one of the screw holes in the wood. With the varnish, work your way back to a handhold place on the wood, then slide it onto the hanger, and finish up the last bit. I hang mine off of open kitchen wall cabinet door handles overnight. Works real well, and you'll get perfect work each time.

Currently in the process of applying ten coats of varnish to my console teak and RPS.
Looks B-E-A-U-T-I-F-U-L.

Barry posted 11-13-2002 05:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for Barry  Send Email to Barry     
Cetol maintenance:

"Make regular inspections to all coated areas. Problem areas should be attended to immediately and maintenance coats should be routinely applied. If the coating is allowed to weather beyond the regular maintenance period of one year, returning this surface to excellent condition will be more difficult.

Exterior: A maintenance coat of Cetol Marine should be applied annually. If the boat is stored in a boat house or is covered when not in use, maintenance coat may be extended for two years. More frequent application may be necessary depending upon the use and environmental conditions.
Before the application of the maintenance coat, clean all surfaces with a mild detergent solution. Scrub vigorously using a nylon scuffing pad and rinse well with clean water and allow do dry thoroughly. Make sure to apply the maintenance coat within one week after the cleaning to prevent surface contamination."

So it can be maintained fairly easily. I'm not sure how easy it is to remove. I would assume that would involve sanding.

The stuff does last. According to the Powerboat-Reports test done outdoors in New England, their Cetol sample looked good after 3-1/2 years. Although I think they said it was starting to look like it needed another coat.

A couple more tips. Make sure you have adequate ventilation. Work in a well lighted area. After the first coat, try looking across the wood for dry spots when you check your next coat. Also, not all foam brushes are created equal. Last night's coat didn't go as well. I kept getting small black dots on the wood in the new coat. Turned out the foam brush I grabbed was breaking down. Of course right on the handle of this brush it says "Not for shellac or lacquer".

lhg posted 11-14-2002 03:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
I, too, have discovered differences in foam brushes. However, they all say not for shellac or lacquer, so the Cetol must have some of those ingredients in it. They do not break down with varnish or paint.

First having bought these in a Boat US store, I later dicovered how badly overpriced they were at $1.25 each. Then I discovered them for 22 cents at Walmart. But I have noticed that the Walmart ones have a more porous black foam, less desireable. You want the dense foam variety for a good job. Finally, I have found them at a good Builder supply house (Menards, from WI) in my area for the same Walmart price, and with the super dense, grey foam. Home Depot also stocks the good ones, but for more like 50 cents each.

OutrageMan posted 11-15-2002 12:08 AM ET (US)     Profile for OutrageMan  Send Email to OutrageMan     
It wouldn't be the laquer or shellac that harms the brush, but the denatured alcohol that is used as the liquid for these finishes.


PaperLess posted 05-15-2006 11:26 AM ET (US)     Profile for PaperLess  Send Email to PaperLess     
Sixer, I have a Ryobi DS2000 and am unable to locate paper for it. I would very much appreciate it if you could email me the Sears Craftsman Sander Model # and/or the Sand Paper Product # that referred to the Ryobi Ds2000 on it.


"newt, I'm using a Sears Craftsman Detail Sander. The stick-on detail sanding sheets that I picked up for it at Lowes says they fit Ryobi DS1000 and DS2000 units. It works OK but very slowly compared to my belt sander or the random orbit."

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