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Author Topic:   Using Non OEM parts

rayl posted 12-08-2002 11:35 AM ET (US)
Hi all!
I have several questions to ask regarding my refurb project. I have a 1986 OR18 with 1989 Yamaha 130. I am in process of removing everything to get to the floor so that hoses and wiring can be replaced. I have several questions for you all on the following:
Since most of the wiring is destroyed and disconnected, and the guages and such look badly worn, I would like to replace all guages, starter switch plate, throttle control, steering, wiring, etc. Should I deviate from the standard Yamaha parts? Are there issues with sending unit matches, wiring harness, etc. with using parts other than std Yamaha? What are the "gotchas" for such an endeavor?
Thanks in advance!

JBCornwell posted 12-08-2002 12:58 PM ET (US)
Ahoy, RayL.
First: you do not need to remove the floor to replace cables, wires, etc. If your fuel tank is sound, get an electrician's fish tape and if necessary get a sparky to show you how to use it.
I would be inclined to replace what needs replacement with Yammy stuff, but that is only one option. Others here can better advise you on that.
Red sky at night. . .
JB
Dick posted 12-08-2002 01:30 PM ET (US)
I am sure you can save some money not going with Yamaha branded replacements.
Steering: it's Teleflex
Guages: Teleflex will work well.
Throttle control: Morse/Teleflex will work, anything set up for 33C cables.
Throttle/shift cables: Teleflex CC172 or CC633.
Starter switch: Sierra makes several, just have to pick one that has the same number of contacts as the old one.
Gep posted 12-08-2002 09:27 PM ET (US)
Rayl,
Sounds like we have the same things going on. I have a 1981 OR18 with a 1992 Yamaha 130. My wiring was pretty bad also, as was my throttle cowl. The gauges aren't too bad. My steering wasn't too bad except for the cowl also. I was planning on replacing with as much OEM as possible within reason. Scroll back through the Repairs/Mods forum and find the post for the Yamaha wiring harness. He's got them for dirt cheap (nice guy too), this is the ten pin harness and should fit your motor.
JB's right though, you shouldn't have to pull the tank deck cover to fish your wires through, unless your planning on replacing the gas lines or something.
Mike
jimh posted 12-09-2002 09:15 AM ET (US)
Some gauges are mated with a sending unit, while others are self contained.
VOLTMETER: self-contained; no sending unit.
WATER PRESSURE: if connected by a hose, self contained; if connected by wiring, needs sending unit.
TEMPERATURE: typically connected to a sending unit.
TILT-TRIM: connected to a sending unit.
TACHOMETER: connected to fairly standard "tachometer" connection; can be interchanged if the non-OEM gauge has calibration adjustments (and most all do).
rayl posted 12-09-2002 10:04 AM ET (US)
All,
Thanks for the responses. I am removing the deck so that I can replace hoses and see if the floor backing is rotted. This boat sat out uncovered for many years and the sealant around it has been deteriorated for some time. I expect it will be pretty nasy under there.
I need to get more info on the Yamaha Engine harness, electronics, etc. Are the clymer manuals good? Would this suffice as opposed to the actual shop manual from Yamaha?
Thanks,
Ray
tbirdsey posted 12-09-2002 11:49 AM ET (US)
rayl
Would love to hear what you find under the deck. I have an '84 and am considering same project for the spring. Good luck, Tom
Gep posted 12-09-2002 01:52 PM ET (US)
tbirdsey,
I have my deck pulled off and my bare hull flipped upside down for a major restoration.
I found about 5 years worth of dirt and grime, the padding under the gas tank dirty and wet, the deck cover is in good condition, a couple of dings in the gelcoat near the tunnel, and somebody foamed the perimeter of the gas tank in with the spray foam (the kind you can get at Home Depot in a can). The gas tank is in semi-good condition as it was changed in 1997.
I was also going to do mine in Spring but decided to do it over the Winter so I don't lose a whole summer of boating. I'm glad I chose to do it now,it's taking me longer than expected.
Mike

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Author	Topic: Using Non OEM parts
rayl	posted 12-08-2002 11:35 AM ET (US) Hi all! I have several questions to ask regarding my refurb project. I have a 1986 OR18 with 1989 Yamaha 130. I am in process of removing everything to get to the floor so that hoses and wiring can be replaced. I have several questions for you all on the following: Since most of the wiring is destroyed and disconnected, and the guages and such look badly worn, I would like to replace all guages, starter switch plate, throttle control, steering, wiring, etc. Should I deviate from the standard Yamaha parts? Are there issues with sending unit matches, wiring harness, etc. with using parts other than std Yamaha? What are the "gotchas" for such an endeavor? Thanks in advance!
JBCornwell	posted 12-08-2002 12:58 PM ET (US) Ahoy, RayL. First: you do not need to remove the floor to replace cables, wires, etc. If your fuel tank is sound, get an electrician's fish tape and if necessary get a sparky to show you how to use it. I would be inclined to replace what needs replacement with Yammy stuff, but that is only one option. Others here can better advise you on that. Red sky at night. . . JB
Dick	posted 12-08-2002 01:30 PM ET (US) I am sure you can save some money not going with Yamaha branded replacements. Steering: it's Teleflex Guages: Teleflex will work well. Throttle control: Morse/Teleflex will work, anything set up for 33C cables. Throttle/shift cables: Teleflex CC172 or CC633. Starter switch: Sierra makes several, just have to pick one that has the same number of contacts as the old one.
Gep	posted 12-08-2002 09:27 PM ET (US) Rayl, Sounds like we have the same things going on. I have a 1981 OR18 with a 1992 Yamaha 130. My wiring was pretty bad also, as was my throttle cowl. The gauges aren't too bad. My steering wasn't too bad except for the cowl also. I was planning on replacing with as much OEM as possible within reason. Scroll back through the Repairs/Mods forum and find the post for the Yamaha wiring harness. He's got them for dirt cheap (nice guy too), this is the ten pin harness and should fit your motor. JB's right though, you shouldn't have to pull the tank deck cover to fish your wires through, unless your planning on replacing the gas lines or something. Mike
jimh	posted 12-09-2002 09:15 AM ET (US) Some gauges are mated with a sending unit, while others are self contained. VOLTMETER: self-contained; no sending unit. WATER PRESSURE: if connected by a hose, self contained; if connected by wiring, needs sending unit. TEMPERATURE: typically connected to a sending unit. TILT-TRIM: connected to a sending unit. TACHOMETER: connected to fairly standard "tachometer" connection; can be interchanged if the non-OEM gauge has calibration adjustments (and most all do).
rayl	posted 12-09-2002 10:04 AM ET (US) All, Thanks for the responses. I am removing the deck so that I can replace hoses and see if the floor backing is rotted. This boat sat out uncovered for many years and the sealant around it has been deteriorated for some time. I expect it will be pretty nasy under there. I need to get more info on the Yamaha Engine harness, electronics, etc. Are the clymer manuals good? Would this suffice as opposed to the actual shop manual from Yamaha? Thanks, Ray
tbirdsey	posted 12-09-2002 11:49 AM ET (US) rayl Would love to hear what you find under the deck. I have an '84 and am considering same project for the spring. Good luck, Tom
Gep	posted 12-09-2002 01:52 PM ET (US) tbirdsey, I have my deck pulled off and my bare hull flipped upside down for a major restoration. I found about 5 years worth of dirt and grime, the padding under the gas tank dirty and wet, the deck cover is in good condition, a couple of dings in the gelcoat near the tunnel, and somebody foamed the perimeter of the gas tank in with the spray foam (the kind you can get at Home Depot in a can). The gas tank is in semi-good condition as it was changed in 1997. I was also going to do mine in Spring but decided to do it over the Winter so I don't lose a whole summer of boating. I'm glad I chose to do it now,it's taking me longer than expected. Mike