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  Awl-grip: Can you buff /sand it out?

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Author Topic:   Awl-grip: Can you buff /sand it out?
Chesapeake posted 01-09-2003 10:00 AM ET (US)   Profile for Chesapeake   Send Email to Chesapeake  
The Awl-grip paint job on the console and pilot seat is good... but not perfect in a few areas. Was wondering if Awl grip can be sanded and / or buffed out?

My understanding is that US Paint doesn't recommend it, but car shops buff out paint all the time. Would appreciate any thoughts from Paint Legend or any of the other experts on the site.

Best,

Bob

Bigshot posted 01-09-2003 10:15 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
The longer you wait the harder it gets.
Chesapeake posted 01-09-2003 02:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
BS: Thanks for the thought. This paint job was completed over a year ago, so any sanding and buffing will be on a fully cured surface.

BW

John W posted 01-09-2003 03:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for John W  Send Email to John W     
I hope you get more insightful replies than mine, from someone with more experience with Awlgrip than me. It is my understanding that the pigment in Awlgrip rises to the paint layer surface as it cures. This makes touch-up of the paint almost impossible. I would guess that sanding the paint would be a bad idea for this reason.

It is difficult to touch up any polyurethane paint job & have it look decent, the paint is too shiny & will reveal any imprefections...including the transition from old paint to your touched up area. Perhaps you could make some improvement with rubbing compound, but I would stay away from sandpaper. To get it perfect, you'll probably have to sand & repaint the console, or at least that side of the console.

tarbaby posted 01-09-2003 08:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for tarbaby  Send Email to tarbaby     
US Paints does not advise buffing plain Awlgrip. They have a product called AwlCraft2000 that is buffable. We use it extensively on all the boats we paint. Like most boatyards, it is hard to pick a perfect day to paint(temp,wind, humidity, bugs, etc...) and for these reasons we swear by it .It is also easier to touch up than plain Awlgrip. It blends in with an older paint job better.It seems that every paint job we do, the boat owner comes back a while later and has us fix a spot that they have scratched. You can buff Awlgrip but go slower on the polisher instead of wide open! Use 3M finesse-it and it should be fine. Try it on a lower spot on the console first.Use a NEW high quality pad ($30-$40). Good luck! Shay
DIVE 1 posted 01-09-2003 08:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for DIVE 1    
I have had good results sanding and buffing Awl-grip, but it must be green(less than 48 hours old). Brush on paint application followed by 600-1200 grit sandpaper, high speed buffer with 3M liquid rubbing compound, finesse-it, and finally a good wax.
Jim
Chesapeake posted 01-10-2003 10:11 AM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
Thank you for your responses.

For this go round, I am going to simply try Finesse-it and my P-C random orbital buffer (with a new pad). What I am trying to eliminate is the dusty feel from overspray. No, I take that back -- it is not really overspray, but "fallout" that settled as the booth was clearing. At any rate, I am hoping that polishing might remove it. If not, maybe I will try some really fine paper.

Am interested in the Awlcraft 2000, though. Is it as tough as Awlgrip and how does it differ? Still 3-part? Perhaps on my next go-round, which I hope is not too soon.

Bob

Paint Legend posted 01-10-2003 02:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for Paint Legend  Send Email to Paint Legend     
Bob-

You got some good advice here, everyone is right on track! I can answer a couple of your questions. AWL-GRIP is a polyurethane and AWL-CRAFT 2000 is an Acrylic Urethane. As far as durability, I tell people that if an AWL-GRIP paint job last 10 years and AWL-CRAFT 2000 paint job will last 8.5 years as a comparison. Shay laid out the advantages with AWL-CRAFT 2000 but I'd also mention it is much easier to spray for the not so experienced painter (spray only for AWL-CRAFT 2000).

Lots of guys buff AWL-GRIP (against Akzo Nobel's recommendation) and don't have any problems but most of the boats are white. Where you run into problems is with the darker colors. When the paint sets up the pigments and binders drop down and the resins (QUV) rise to the surface. When you sand and buff you burn through the protective layers and expose the pigments. On red paint job that was spotted you'll see milkiness and fading where the sanding and buffing were done, not immediately but down the road.

Good luck with your project!
Tom

Chesapeake posted 01-10-2003 04:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
Shay: Is the 2000 still a 3-part system? Is it as noxious as Awl-grip? In what way is it easier to spray... less runs and sags?

Will the Finesse-it II be enough to polish out the "overspray" dust that has dried on the surface??

Thanks to all who responded with good advice.

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