Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Outrage Deck Removal; Photos
|Author||Topic: Outrage Deck Removal; Photos|
posted 01-09-2003 06:13 PM ET (US)
Checked out the fuel fill line on my 85 18' Outrage today and it has to be replaced. After reading tons of posts I think I may bite the bullet and lift the deck plate. I would like to replace all of the lines and solve the mystery of what is going on down there. Does anyone have any pictures of thier Outrage with the deck plate off exposing the tank? I would love to have an idea of what to expect. Thanks.
posted 01-09-2003 08:57 PM ET (US)
There are some photos of a 25 in the Cetacea section undergoing this renovation. Does not look like fun.
posted 01-10-2003 08:18 AM ET (US)
I have some photos of my '81 18' Outrage with the deck plate off.
Look for an e-mail from me.
I use Hotmail and I can't just post a link to them, I have to email you as an invited guest.
P.S. if you have any questions, let me know.
posted 01-10-2003 09:04 AM ET (US)
posted 01-10-2003 01:18 PM ET (US)
Nedmack, before you lift that deck, consider this. We replaced all of the fuel and vent hoses on my '86 O/R 18' without lifting the deck. You will have to remove the small deck panel next to the fuel intake (up on the gunnel) but that is the only deck piece removal required. Come to think of it, we did unscrew the console to get better access to the big fuel intake fitting on the tank, but that was no big deal, just moved the console up a foot once loose and made room for the work. The plastic side cover over the intake hose just unscrews for removal. You can access all of the other hose fittings via the removable round deck plates, just another example of the care and engineering that went into those Daugherty era hulls. We got pretty aggressive wiping down the fuel tank and gauge with a damp rag while we were at the job, but that was for anal-retentive cosmetic reasons only, not really necessary. Should be good for another 15 years or so. Hope this helps.
posted 01-10-2003 01:56 PM ET (US)
If you do have to go through the trouble of lifting the deck plate, I would remove & inspect, & perhaps pressure test the tank. As the thread on tanks discusses, those in deck aluminum tanks will corrode through eventually, and yours is at the age that some tanks start having problems.
posted 01-10-2003 04:28 PM ET (US)
I believe that I could change all of the hoses without removing the deck, but I am afraid of what may be lurking under there. When I removed the side pannels and small tunnel covers the tunnels were almost completely full of sludge. I have noticed some water and small piting on the tank near the fuel line exit, and the gasket that sticks out around the round fuel line nipple is crumbly. All of these items make me think I better get in there and set things straight. My main concern is the throttle cables and engine wiring diconnection. Look forward to any pictures anyone can offer.
posted 01-10-2003 04:45 PM ET (US)
I have done this project and sent some pics that I have with me, I will send more soon. I would be glad to help with any questions.
posted 01-10-2003 05:26 PM ET (US)
Gep and eric_from_md,
I mistakenly entered the wong email address in my profile. Could you please resend any photos you may have mailed to the new corrected email address. I am anxious to see them. Thanks again.
posted 01-10-2003 10:55 PM ET (US)
In our town we jez had a Oriental couple get their brand new baby switched at the hospital with the child of an African American couple. They took him home and named him, Sum Ting Wong.
posted 01-11-2003 09:48 AM ET (US)
Check your email.
posted 01-11-2003 03:40 PM ET (US)
Please forward those pictures as well.
I am planning on doing this, this spring.
I think one of us should document the removal and installation of new floor, fuel tank, hoses.....There are a ton of Outrages out there and this seems to be a common problem of the 1980's vintage.
Think of all of those who would benefit from this information if it were to be added to our reference library.
Just a thought!
Please send pics! and tips!
posted 01-11-2003 03:56 PM ET (US)
To those of you who have pulled your decks: what make and color caulk/sealant did you use to re-do the deck joints, and how happy are you with it down the road a piece?
posted 01-11-2003 05:06 PM ET (US)
Decided not to pull the deck. Changed all of the hoses out today through the port hole openings. Piece of cake, 2 hrs max. After seeing pictures of the below deck area, I realized that 70% of the area under the deck plate is finished glass. I was originally thinking it was all foam. I feel a lot more confident about the design now. Of course, I still do not know if I have tank corrosion under the plate, but my fuel water separator never picks up any water, so I am not too worried. I do agree that this is a common issue among Outrage owners and would make a good reference item. Thanks for all of the info. What would I do without this site?
posted 01-11-2003 05:20 PM ET (US)
Maybe this should turn into a rendezvous, as many of us that have "the problem" ! Make a bulk purchase of tanks, hoses and clamps then do an assembly line.
posted 01-11-2003 05:41 PM ET (US)
I'll forward some pictures to you also. I am somewhat documenting this as I go along, at least with pictures.
posted 01-13-2003 01:02 PM ET (US)
I just got through pulling the deck lids on my 25. Although they looked great from topside moisture and termites had eroded the plywood on the bottom of the decks. Boston Whaler did not do a good job of glassing around the edges of the plywood and rot ensued. We removed all the wood, replaced it on both the front and rear decks and reglassed. At the same time I pressure-tested the tanks and replaced all hoses and fittings. It's quite a job as I had to de-rig the superconsole, remove and replace the t-top before we even started on the deck repairs. Total cost for de-rigging, repairing the decks, and rerigging was about $1,800. Jim
posted 01-13-2003 03:56 PM ET (US)
posted 01-13-2003 04:15 PM ET (US)
Just a bit of a diversion - but I always have wondered why a drain/suction is not provided from the gas tank area.
Consequently, I thought that should I ever have to raise the floor on my OR, I would install suction tube(s) from the gas tank area. These could simply be a tube afixed so the end of the tube is near a low point in the gas tank area and the other end located where one could get a vacuum pump, air ejector, or what-ever to it and suck/evacuate any water from the area. Simple to do and could save many problems. ---- Jerry/Idaho
posted 01-13-2003 05:28 PM ET (US)
I am in process of this very same project on my 86 OR18. I would love to get some of your pictures to help in understanding the "opportunities" that I have before me. I am to the point of pulling up the plate now and really wish I had recieved more info prior to that. Seemed like I removed a million screws. This just doesn't seem like it will be an easy job for a newbie.
In addition, I will have to restore all wiring from scratch as there was no diagram and the wiring was so messy, and mostly disconnected, that my options are limited.
posted 01-13-2003 05:39 PM ET (US)
Dep whould you be so kind to foward me a set of pictures to so i can see whats under my
deck on my 83 outrage.
posted 01-14-2003 10:57 AM ET (US)
I had an email conversation with Tom Clark about that same thing. It seems that if you get water in the gas tank area it won't be able to drain out very easily. I was thinking along the same lines as that.
posted 01-14-2003 11:27 AM ET (US)
I had that in mind as well but chose to go another route. I don't know if it will hold up but I foamed/glassed my tank in so water can't get in the tub. I glassed and epoxied my tank with several layers and then foamed the tank back in and glassed the entire perimeter of the tank to the hull so water has no way to get in the tub anymore. Water can still run across the tank but can't get down next to it. Since the entire tank has been ecapsulated with glass and epoxy the water running across it won't do any harm and if water where to get into the tub again the tank is protected. I have pics of some of it. I have sent them to some of you.
posted 01-14-2003 11:28 AM ET (US)
What if you ever have to replace your tank?
posted 01-14-2003 12:37 PM ET (US)
I don't think that would be a big deal. There is plenty of room around the tank to run a saw/knife without harming the tank or hull if that needed to be done. Again I can't say this is the cure all or the best way, it is just what I chose to do. My tank was 12 years old and showing some signs of corrosion in several spots. The glass around the tank should act as a tank itself and if the aluminum leaked the fiberglass tank would then be holding the fuel.
Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.
Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000