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Author Topic:   Outrage Deck Removal; Photos
Nedmack posted 01-09-2003 06:13 PM ET (US)   Profile for Nedmack   Send Email to Nedmack  
Checked out the fuel fill line on my 85 18' Outrage today and it has to be replaced. After reading tons of posts I think I may bite the bullet and lift the deck plate. I would like to replace all of the lines and solve the mystery of what is going on down there. Does anyone have any pictures of thier Outrage with the deck plate off exposing the tank? I would love to have an idea of what to expect. Thanks.
lhg posted 01-09-2003 08:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
There are some photos of a 25 in the Cetacea section undergoing this renovation. Does not look like fun.
Gep posted 01-10-2003 08:18 AM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
I have some photos of my '81 18' Outrage with the deck plate off.
Look for an e-mail from me.
I use Hotmail and I can't just post a link to them, I have to email you as an invited guest.
P.S. if you have any questions, let me know.
Barry posted 01-10-2003 09:04 AM ET (US)     Profile for Barry  Send Email to Barry     
dreid posted 01-10-2003 01:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for dreid  Send Email to dreid     
Nedmack, before you lift that deck, consider this. We replaced all of the fuel and vent hoses on my '86 O/R 18' without lifting the deck. You will have to remove the small deck panel next to the fuel intake (up on the gunnel) but that is the only deck piece removal required. Come to think of it, we did unscrew the console to get better access to the big fuel intake fitting on the tank, but that was no big deal, just moved the console up a foot once loose and made room for the work. The plastic side cover over the intake hose just unscrews for removal. You can access all of the other hose fittings via the removable round deck plates, just another example of the care and engineering that went into those Daugherty era hulls. We got pretty aggressive wiping down the fuel tank and gauge with a damp rag while we were at the job, but that was for anal-retentive cosmetic reasons only, not really necessary. Should be good for another 15 years or so. Hope this helps.
John W posted 01-10-2003 01:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for John W  Send Email to John W     
If you do have to go through the trouble of lifting the deck plate, I would remove & inspect, & perhaps pressure test the tank. As the thread on tanks discusses, those in deck aluminum tanks will corrode through eventually, and yours is at the age that some tanks start having problems.
Nedmack posted 01-10-2003 04:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for Nedmack  Send Email to Nedmack     
I believe that I could change all of the hoses without removing the deck, but I am afraid of what may be lurking under there. When I removed the side pannels and small tunnel covers the tunnels were almost completely full of sludge. I have noticed some water and small piting on the tank near the fuel line exit, and the gasket that sticks out around the round fuel line nipple is crumbly. All of these items make me think I better get in there and set things straight. My main concern is the throttle cables and engine wiring diconnection. Look forward to any pictures anyone can offer.
eric_from_MD posted 01-10-2003 04:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for eric_from_MD  Send Email to eric_from_MD     
I have done this project and sent some pics that I have with me, I will send more soon. I would be glad to help with any questions.


Nedmack posted 01-10-2003 05:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for Nedmack  Send Email to Nedmack     
Gep and eric_from_md,
I mistakenly entered the wong email address in my profile. Could you please resend any photos you may have mailed to the new corrected email address. I am anxious to see them. Thanks again.
hooter posted 01-10-2003 10:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for hooter    
In our town we jez had a Oriental couple get their brand new baby switched at the hospital with the child of an African American couple. They took him home and named him, Sum Ting Wong.
Gep posted 01-11-2003 09:48 AM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
Check your email.
Outrage18 posted 01-11-2003 03:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for Outrage18  Send Email to Outrage18     
Please forward those pictures as well.
I am planning on doing this, this spring.
I think one of us should document the removal and installation of new floor, fuel tank, hoses.....There are a ton of Outrages out there and this seems to be a common problem of the 1980's vintage.
Think of all of those who would benefit from this information if it were to be added to our reference library.
Just a thought!

Please send pics! and tips!

kingfish posted 01-11-2003 03:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
To those of you who have pulled your decks: what make and color caulk/sealant did you use to re-do the deck joints, and how happy are you with it down the road a piece?


Nedmack posted 01-11-2003 05:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for Nedmack  Send Email to Nedmack     
Decided not to pull the deck. Changed all of the hoses out today through the port hole openings. Piece of cake, 2 hrs max. After seeing pictures of the below deck area, I realized that 70% of the area under the deck plate is finished glass. I was originally thinking it was all foam. I feel a lot more confident about the design now. Of course, I still do not know if I have tank corrosion under the plate, but my fuel water separator never picks up any water, so I am not too worried. I do agree that this is a common issue among Outrage owners and would make a good reference item. Thanks for all of the info. What would I do without this site?
xsailor posted 01-11-2003 05:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for xsailor  Send Email to xsailor     
Maybe this should turn into a rendezvous, as many of us that have "the problem" ! Make a bulk purchase of tanks, hoses and clamps then do an assembly line.

Dave W

Gep posted 01-11-2003 05:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
Outrage 18,
I'll forward some pictures to you also. I am somewhat documenting this as I go along, at least with pictures.

I mainly pulled mine off because I am doing a total refurb and it didn't make sense to strip everything out except that.
I also wanted to see what was under there as I didn't have any idea what the layout looked like.
I am glad I pulled mine as there was alot of dirt and grime and also there was a crack in the fiberglass in the side of the tunnel. The gas tank was held in using the aluminum straps but was also foamed into place using that kind of foam in a can that you get in a hardware store (ei. Great Foam). My tank was replaced in 1992, so it's not that old but did look pretty corroded. I think I'm going to clean or sand it down and maybe clear coat it.

It seems to me I remember a thread from about two or so years ago where lhg posted something about using an almond colored silicone. I'm not even close to that point yet and was going to try and find the old post when the time came.


JimU posted 01-13-2003 01:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for JimU  Send Email to JimU     
I just got through pulling the deck lids on my 25. Although they looked great from topside moisture and termites had eroded the plywood on the bottom of the decks. Boston Whaler did not do a good job of glassing around the edges of the plywood and rot ensued. We removed all the wood, replaced it on both the front and rear decks and reglassed. At the same time I pressure-tested the tanks and replaced all hoses and fittings. It's quite a job as I had to de-rig the superconsole, remove and replace the t-top before we even started on the deck repairs. Total cost for de-rigging, repairing the decks, and rerigging was about $1,800. Jim
Gep posted 01-13-2003 03:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
Jerry Townsend posted 01-13-2003 04:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jerry Townsend  Send Email to Jerry Townsend     
Just a bit of a diversion - but I always have wondered why a drain/suction is not provided from the gas tank area.

Consequently, I thought that should I ever have to raise the floor on my OR, I would install suction tube(s) from the gas tank area. These could simply be a tube afixed so the end of the tube is near a low point in the gas tank area and the other end located where one could get a vacuum pump, air ejector, or what-ever to it and suck/evacuate any water from the area. Simple to do and could save many problems. ---- Jerry/Idaho

rayl posted 01-13-2003 05:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for rayl    

I am in process of this very same project on my 86 OR18. I would love to get some of your pictures to help in understanding the "opportunities" that I have before me. I am to the point of pulling up the plate now and really wish I had recieved more info prior to that. Seemed like I removed a million screws. This just doesn't seem like it will be an easy job for a newbie.

In addition, I will have to restore all wiring from scratch as there was no diagram and the wiring was so messy, and mostly disconnected, that my options are limited.


gvisko posted 01-13-2003 05:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for gvisko  Send Email to gvisko     
Dep whould you be so kind to foward me a set of pictures to so i can see whats under my
deck on my 83 outrage.

george viskovich

Gep posted 01-14-2003 10:57 AM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
Jerry T,
I had an email conversation with Tom Clark about that same thing. It seems that if you get water in the gas tank area it won't be able to drain out very easily. I was thinking along the same lines as that.

I'm in the same mess as you, I had to remove a million screws and my wiring was a rats nest. I just hope in two or three months I'm able to remember how to wire it all back up.
I got some baggies and a marker and as I pulled stuff off it went into a plastic bag and I wrote on the bag what it was. I'm hoping this helps on the tail end.
Now I have a million baggies!

I'll send you an email.


eric_from_MD posted 01-14-2003 11:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for eric_from_MD  Send Email to eric_from_MD     

I had that in mind as well but chose to go another route. I don't know if it will hold up but I foamed/glassed my tank in so water can't get in the tub. I glassed and epoxied my tank with several layers and then foamed the tank back in and glassed the entire perimeter of the tank to the hull so water has no way to get in the tub anymore. Water can still run across the tank but can't get down next to it. Since the entire tank has been ecapsulated with glass and epoxy the water running across it won't do any harm and if water where to get into the tub again the tank is protected. I have pics of some of it. I have sent them to some of you.

Gep posted 01-14-2003 11:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
What if you ever have to replace your tank?
eric_from_MD posted 01-14-2003 12:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for eric_from_MD  Send Email to eric_from_MD     
I don't think that would be a big deal. There is plenty of room around the tank to run a saw/knife without harming the tank or hull if that needed to be done. Again I can't say this is the cure all or the best way, it is just what I chose to do. My tank was 12 years old and showing some signs of corrosion in several spots. The glass around the tank should act as a tank itself and if the aluminum leaked the fiberglass tank would then be holding the fuel.

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