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Author Topic:   Water Pump replacement/ how to.
bradenton_whaler posted 01-20-2003 11:32 AM ET (US)   Profile for bradenton_whaler   Send Email to bradenton_whaler  
I have already reached the end of my 2003 budget for boat repairs and need to do some work myself. How hard is it to replace the water pump in a mid 1990s Evinrude OceanPro 225? Is this something better suited for the mechanic or something this is relatively simple?

Thanks.

bradenton_whaler posted 01-20-2003 07:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for bradenton_whaler  Send Email to bradenton_whaler     
I guess I have no takers on this topic. I did a little research and it appears to be a relatively easy task... 2 hrs plus the $50 kit. Am I about right?

simonmeridew posted 01-20-2003 08:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for simonmeridew  Send Email to simonmeridew     
bradenton_whaler
Do you have the OMC book or the Chilton's book for your motor? You will need some kind of book to do it right.
The lower unit for this motor is quite heavy; not familiar with the specifics of the 225 but there may be some awkward moments as you try to lift a heavy lower unit vertically while trying to get splines and shifters to line up.
Like any 2 hour job, it may end up being a 2 day job the first time you do it.
simonmeridew
SSCH posted 01-20-2003 09:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for SSCH  Send Email to SSCH     
Since no OMC guys are answering, I'll jump in and tell you that on Mercs and Yamaha's it no major challenge to change water pumps. I've never worked on an OMC. The lower unit on a 200 Yamaha can be handled by one guy fairly easily. The only hard part is the removal of a woodruff key in the drive staff that keeps the rotor from spinning on the shaft. It usually has to be driven out with a chisel. If you want to replace the inner wear plate (which comes in the Yammie kit) you have to remove the key.

Everything else is pretty obvious. The lower unit itself has one tricky bolt. You have to remove the zinc to uncover the last bolt holding the lower unit onto the engine.

It's a little troublesome the first time you have to compress the rotor blades into the pump housing. Once you've figured it out it's easy.

Be sure to lube the bolts as you reassemble the engine so that the next time you do this job it will be easier.

brisboats posted 01-20-2003 10:11 PM ET (US)     Profile for brisboats  Send Email to brisboats     
I've done the OMC, mercs and Yammies and the OMC's are a little harder due to the shift shaft that runs up the midsection, requires removal of bolt under the carburaters.

The R&R procedure always looks easy in the book but it wouldn't be a bad idea to have an experienced wrench nearby when you begin this undertaking. Little tricks come in handy like putting the gearcase in forward before you remove it so you can turn the prop shaft on reassembly to aid in spline alignment. Knowing just how much OMC triple guard to put on the driveshaft so as to just lube it and not place a load on it. torqueing the waterpump base to the wearplate right so it seals. I like to lube the inner waterpump housing with dish soap before reassembly so upon startup my impeller isn't dry. Just my .02 but an experienced o/b mechanic nearby would certainly be better than the manual.
I have seen waterpump jobs turn into nightmares due to frozen driveshafts in powerheads, broken cavitation fins due to impatient shade tree mechanics who were sure they had all the bolts out, and broken skegs from thinking they still had at least one in. Not trying to discourage you from attempting this yourself but take your time and good luck.

Roscoe posted 01-20-2003 11:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for Roscoe  Send Email to Roscoe     
I have an omc when you do remove lower unit the shifter rod is conected to lower unit up to the underneath of the carbs,along with the driveshaft there is a smaller Shifter rod do not turn rod arround and arround when you remove,it is set to spec. Make sure you install rubber pump ears in correct position.
Take apart the old one and keep track of the parts ,little tricky the first time ,then you'll be a pro! Good Luck.
SaintGeorge posted 01-28-2003 06:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for SaintGeorge  Send Email to SaintGeorge     
If you insist on doing this I suggest.

1. Use a Polaroid camera as you dissassemble.
2. Best book is from Johnson or Evinrude, actually now Ken Cook (search the web).
3. It will take you a lot longer.
4. Does it really need it?

bradenton_whaler posted 01-28-2003 11:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for bradenton_whaler  Send Email to bradenton_whaler     
I'm starting with the water pump.... the symptoms are that it "pisses" fine at idle but the stream weakens when boat placed on plane. After a few minutes on a plane, the engine shuts itself down, not exceeded +/- 2,500 RPM. I just got the boat and do not trust the gauges yet, but it appears to be running hot. The pump seems to be the most logical place to start. The first time I put the boat in the water, it did this. I immediately took it to my mechanic. I assumed it was the fuel pump. However, when I put it in the drink, it did the same thing. Any suggestions or comments?
gvisko posted 01-29-2003 07:49 AM ET (US)     Profile for gvisko  Send Email to gvisko     
on my 150 evinrude 1990 v6 it did the same
thing i changed the themostats and ran fine
at idle . underway she stalled right away.
you have to change water pump, not a hard job
but the shift rod is a pain in the butt.
dont forget the bolt under the trim tab.
check your warning horns to make sure there working, george visko
hauptjm posted 01-29-2003 12:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for hauptjm    
I'm curious. For those that have used your mechanic to replace either a pump and or impeller, what are you paying? I've heard some wild variances lately.
bradenton_whaler posted 01-29-2003 06:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for bradenton_whaler  Send Email to bradenton_whaler     
My mechanic quoted $125 to $150 to change the water pump. The repair kit costs $50, so if you figure an hour or 2 at $50-$60/ hour, then you are near his estimate.

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