Forum: WHALER
  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  1968 16' wood window router cut question

Post New Topic  Post Reply
search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   1968 16' wood window router cut question
smirkless posted 01-20-2003 12:35 PM ET (US)   Profile for smirkless   Send Email to smirkless  
I'm making a new mahogany windscrean in accordance with the original Whaler drawings. Parts 12-192-1 & 2, window frames, have a complex set of router cuts. The 1/4" roundover is no big deal, the 1/4" by 1/2" inset is okay, but the 1/8" by 5/16" is my problem. I haven't seen a router blade that will make that cut. Anyone that has done this, please let me know how and what steps or cuts should be done first.

Smirk :-)

Tom W Clark posted 01-20-2003 02:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Ward,

If you need a router profile that is not standard, you can very easily have a sharpening shop grind down a stock bit to meet your specifications. Look in your Yellow Pages under "Sharpening Service".

triblet posted 01-20-2003 04:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
1/8" wide by 5/16 deep? Can you rip it on a
table saw? And I know I've seen 1/8" router
blades. I used on on a project I did that had
an acylic window, though I think I only went
1/4" deep.


Chuck

Chesapeake posted 01-20-2003 07:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
Ward:

I just looked at the drawing to see the piece you were describing.

Originally, I was thinking you could use a biscuit / slot cutting bit. The kerf should be .125" and the depth could be adjusted with larger bearings or with a pattern template.

When I looked at the drawing, however, it looks like Chuck may have the best alternative - with a couple of provisos.

The drawing calls for a 5/16 rabbet, which could be easily done on the table saw by setting your blade height to 5/16" and moving your fence .125 away from the blade. It would give you the profile in the drawing.

The problem is that you need that little "lip" on the bottom with the 1/4" roundover. What you might want to do is change the order a little...

Before you create the 1/4" lip, the diemsions of the board will obviously be 1/4" larger (on one side). I would make the .125" dado or groove needed on the table saw as described above. However, you would need to make the depth of the cut 9/16" (this is the 5/16" you need plus the 1/4" you still need to remove to create the lip. Then go back and cut your rabbet on the edge to create the 1/4" lip. This will reduce the size of your 9/16 dado to the 5/16" required.

Finish it with your 1/4" roundover bit on the outside edge. Should be a real easy procedure when taken in this order.

Bob

Chesapeake posted 01-20-2003 07:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
Correction. In paragraph four of the previous response, I called it a 5/16" rabbet. Incorrect, it is actually a dado (groove).

BW

Tom W Clark posted 01-20-2003 09:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Hello? You guys, Ward is talking about the windshield on a Nauset console. The glass sits in a wood frame. The glass shapes have round corners. It cannot be done on a table saw or with a biscuit joiner. Those tools could only cut a dado in a straight piece of stock. It has to be done with a router or shaper.
smirkless posted 01-20-2003 10:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for smirkless  Send Email to smirkless     
Tom, looks like you have the only viable alternative. Have you or anyone else successfully done this with a custom router bit? I have the window gasket on order from Petro Plastics. I think I will wait until I get it to make sure the shape is correct.

This is one of the most complicated and expensive parts of the whole console to make. I just want to ensure I've got it right. Smirk :-)

sport15er posted 01-21-2003 08:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for sport15er  Send Email to sport15er     
If I'm understanding you correctly, this slot cutting bit should do the trick for you;
Freud #56-108. You can pick them up at any decent builders supply center or try woodworkersupply.com
I deal with this company quite often locally, if you need any more info.
smirkless posted 01-22-2003 01:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for smirkless  Send Email to smirkless     
Boy was that woodworker.com site great!!
They have slotting router bitsof various sizes with bearings to keep the bit depth constant. There goes another 50 bucks :-(
sport15er posted 01-22-2003 04:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for sport15er  Send Email to sport15er     
Smirk, if you're not planning on constant use with the slot cutter; just this project and maybe some occasional work in the future, you can save a little $$ by going with the Woodtek brand if available. Their bits are typically machined to the same standards, but their carbide seems to be a notch below Freud's quality.(imo)
Good luck.
Chesapeake posted 01-23-2003 03:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
Hello! Tom! We recognize Smirkless is referring to a Nauset windshield. Based on the original Whaler drawing, it appears that the piece in question does call for a 1/8" x 5/16" dado.

Please check out the drawing. You're right, a biscuit joiner would not be a rationale approach. A slot cutting bit in a router would also take some creativity, unless it was in a table. But for that particular cut, the table saw would probably be perfect, in my opinion -- expecially if you don't own a shaper or router table.

sport15er posted 01-23-2003 03:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for sport15er  Send Email to sport15er     
Smirk, please don't attempt this on your tablesaw...
-Block the surface of your workbench to the same height as your windshield material; to allow your router plenty of surface to ride on.
-I'd suggest that you do your roundover prior to slotting, this will prevent the bearing of your roundover bit from entering your new slot.
(email me if you need to, I work with routers every day.)
Tom W Clark posted 01-23-2003 03:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Bob,

How are you going to get a table saw (or biscuit joiner) up into a 1.5" radius inside corner?!

crosley95 posted 01-23-2003 05:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for crosley95  Send Email to crosley95     
hi fellas,

you've found the most difficult part of the sakonnet/nausett woodworking. the windshield... the #$%^%$ windshield. my boat partner frank spent many hours on this piece. finally using a dremel to get the size of the cut just right for the gasket. it has to be right or it just won't work.

good luck,

crosley

smirkless posted 01-27-2003 11:35 AM ET (US)     Profile for smirkless  Send Email to smirkless     
I have sent for the Freud router bits that should be here in a day or two. The window gasket should also be here in a week or so. I'm tempted to go ahead and cut the "as-dimensioned" dado and slot shown on the Whaler drawings unless anyone thinks I should wait for the gasket to verify required shapes.

Also, I am still working on a set of accurate technical drawings including every angle cut and dimension required. The Whaler drawings are great but leave some information out, particularly some of the most difficult angles to determine. I can't say exactly when they will be done because I need to get through this build-out to ensure all is correct.

Smirk :-)

Chesapeake posted 01-28-2003 05:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
Tom: Was looking only at the cross section diagram and missed the big picture. See your point regarding the 1.5 " radius. You and Sport 15 are right. Obviously making the slot in the radius could only be done with an appropriate router bit / slot cutting bit. Sorry smirkless. I'll avoid answering and leave the woodworking questions for the carpenters next time.

Bob

thistle3585 posted 01-29-2003 12:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for thistle3585  Send Email to thistle3585     
I am building a sakonnet console and windshield. I am going to have the windshield cut by a a company I do business with that has a CNC shop. I don't know if this is the same configuration you need, but if it is let me know. I could get a couple cut at once since the machine will already be set up. I am taking my existing one to him next week to take a set of measurements. I don't know what he will charge, but if interested feel free to email me.
smirkless posted 01-30-2003 07:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for smirkless  Send Email to smirkless     
thistle3585, I'm going to scribe mine directly from the configuration I have. Although it is based on the original dimensions, I have had too many issues with tolerances lately. I'm waiting on the gasket to arrive to determine final dimensions. Does anyone know how thick the gasket is and how much play (expansion and fitting room or extra tolerance) is required between the edge of the glass and the gasket?

I received the Freud bits and they worked perfectly for the shapes involved. This turned out to be easy.

Smirk :-)

thistle3585 posted 01-31-2003 10:07 AM ET (US)     Profile for thistle3585  Send Email to thistle3585     
Where do you get the new gaskets from? Are they molded to shape or come in linear footage? I was planning on just using linear stock.
smirkless posted 01-31-2003 11:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for smirkless  Send Email to smirkless     
Window gasket: $3/ft, Petro Plastics, Inc., (908)789-1200, 450 South Avenue, Garwood, NJ 07027

Must send a check and letter with part request.

Just got mine today.

This works with 1/4" glass, recommend tempered. The glass shape is just a hair less than the 1/4" router inset. The gasket does not fit between the wood and glass.

Smirk :-)

thistle3585 posted 01-31-2003 04:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for thistle3585  Send Email to thistle3585     
How doesn't it fit? I assume that the gasket is wider than what it should be. Can you adjust the location of the dado to get it to fit by moving it away from the glass?
smirkless posted 02-03-2003 01:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for smirkless  Send Email to smirkless     
Let me rephrase what I said.
The glass fits between the gasket and the wood frame. The gasket does not wrap the edge of the glass, keeping it off the wood.
This may be obvious to some who have it in front of them but it is not apparent from the drawings.
In any case... all is well, the sky only falls for some :-(

Post New Topic  Post Reply
Hop to:


Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.