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Author Topic:   Yamaha Cowling Paint Job
Doug Weaver posted 02-12-2003 07:09 PM ET (US)   Profile for Doug Weaver   Send Email to Doug Weaver  
I've read some of the threads concerning this and learned quite a bit. I am in the process of sanding the cowling on my 225 Yamaha. I've started with a 150 grit and would like some advice on how to go from this to a grit that is going to leave the smoothest surface for priming. What grit sandpaper should I use? Also, do I need to worry about using paint stripper or solvents on the fiberglass cowling? This particular engine had a large sticker running around the bottom of the cowling that is hell on the sandpaper and I would prefer ot strip it. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Doug

lhg posted 02-12-2003 08:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Basically, what I have heard is that re-painting an engine cowling is the same as automotive paint work. I'd take it to a body shop. They'll know how to do it.
Doug Weaver posted 02-13-2003 07:49 AM ET (US)     Profile for Doug Weaver  Send Email to Doug Weaver     
I appreciate the idea, but not looking to go crazy with the money. The engine is an '89 and it was just looking a bit faded. I'm really looking to do the work myself. I've painted a van before, and it came out pretty good. Just trying to do a little better job this time. Thanks again.
Bigshot posted 02-13-2003 09:59 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
were the decals still good? If so I just tape them off and give a light sanding and then spray. To get a smoothe surface a 600-1000 will be great. You can get Tempo matching paint at any boat store, they only make 1 color for Yamahas. New decals can be made at any sign/decal shop for about $70-100.
nvrtoomanyboats posted 02-13-2003 11:43 AM ET (US)     Profile for nvrtoomanyboats  Send Email to nvrtoomanyboats     
Just did the same job with help from a friend who owns a body shop. I started with 180 grit paper then went to 320 grit and finished it with 1000 grit wetpaper.

The surface needs to be cleaned with an acetone or quick dry enamal reducer prior to painting.

Hope this helps.
Rich

Doug Weaver posted 02-13-2003 12:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for Doug Weaver  Send Email to Doug Weaver     
I purchased the Tempo paint from West Marine and was polanning on using an automotive primer. Decals were pretty much shot after twelve years in the florida sun, so will need some sort of replacement. I'll check into the decal shop and see what they can do for me. Thanks for the help with the sandpaper. I'm hoping to get a nice smooth finish and that seems like the trick along with the acetone bit prior to painting.

Doug

Bigshot posted 02-13-2003 01:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
Doug...there is a place called Auto trim Design in Bradenton, give them a buzz for decals. Hope to see you at the next rendezvous. It will be in late march or early April at Shell key so no excuses that it is too far:)
Doug Weaver posted 02-13-2003 07:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for Doug Weaver  Send Email to Doug Weaver     
Thanks for the info bigshot. I'll check them out for the decals. Shell Key is never too far for me. One of my favorite watering holes is Billy's Stonecrab. Let me know when you guys head down there. I missed Gasparilla this year. Could not talk the wife into getting out that morning as it was so overcast and cool.
andygere posted 02-14-2003 01:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
Doug,
Make sure you move up through each sanding grit range, eg 180, 220, 320, 400 etc, not skipping any in between. This will ensure that you get all the scratches out from the previous grit and have a really nice glossy finish. Use a rubber sanding block, and rinse the paper often so it doesn't get loaded up. Also, get a small rubber squeegee (2"x3") at any auto parts store and wipe the water away as you go to see and feel if you are ready for the next grit. If you have any deep gouges or scratches, you can fill them with a fairing compound like red lead (not really lead) and wet sand to feather into the rest of the work. Make sure you select a primer that is compatable with the fiberglass and your finish paint. Others here may have specific advice on that.

Also, I would use something like a citrus degreaser to remove the old decal glue before sanding or you'll load your paper up instantly. If you heat the decals with a blow dryer, you may be able to peel them off in pretty large chunks.

where2 posted 02-14-2003 06:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
With all the great advice here, I should let one of you paint my engine cover... Every step is listed here, like you guys do this every weekend or something.
Bigshot posted 02-15-2003 12:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
Not every weekend but too many times to mention. Nothing makes a boat look better than a shiny engine. Why people drive around with the paint flaking off is a mystery to me.
Doug Weaver posted 02-16-2003 10:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for Doug Weaver  Send Email to Doug Weaver     
This particular engine has a plastic type air intake cover that is pretty rough and sandpaper does not really do much in the way of smoothing it out. I was thinking of using a bondo/fiberglass type application to build it up and then sand it smooth to match the rest of the cowling. Any other ideas?? Thanks agian.

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