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Author Topic:   Johnson 2-HP Gear Case Lubricant Service
raygun posted 03-22-2003 09:49 PM ET (US)   Profile for raygun   Send Email to raygun  
I just picked up a 1974 Johnson 2HP outboard at a yard sale. I want to use it on my dingy to get to my Montauk when I have it moored in winter. We have to store our dock float elsewhere during the winter months or it gets beaten to death. This little motor runs fine, but I wanted to change the lubricant in the lower unit. I can only find the drain and fill plug, I don't see a level or vent plug, like on my 90-HP. Anyone have a little advice on this? Is there one? Thank you.
Steve Leone posted 03-22-2003 11:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for Steve Leone  Send Email to Steve Leone     
It is there. Just look a little more carefully. It should be at the top on the same side as the drain. Steve
raygun posted 03-22-2003 11:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for raygun  Send Email to raygun     
How high up would you say, Steve?
captbone posted 03-23-2003 12:54 AM ET (US)     Profile for captbone  Send Email to captbone     
I have looked for along time, I have four OMC 2-HP motors. I guess I sort of collect them. They are the most reliable engines in the world. There is nothing to them. There is no vent plug for these models going to the mid 1990's. I just turn them upside down after all the old oil is gone and refill until I can not get anymore in it. I have been through some weird times with these engine. I have one seize up on me because of rust. I took off the half cowl grabbed the flywheel and unfroze it with my hands and it has run great every since.
raygun posted 03-23-2003 01:24 AM ET (US)     Profile for raygun  Send Email to raygun     
Thanks captbone, [inverting the engine to help adding lubricant to the gear case is] so simple I wouldn't have thought of it. The seller didn't have the owner's manual unfortunately, but now I should be good to go. It does seem like a great little engine.
raygun posted 03-25-2003 02:49 AM ET (US)     Profile for raygun  Send Email to raygun     
Thanks again, that did the trick. One more question if you don't mind, does a little motor like this have a water flow indicator?
captbone posted 03-25-2003 06:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for captbone  Send Email to captbone     
It has four holes in the mid-section that sprinkle water. It does not come out good at all, even with a brand new water pump. It does not have [a confidence stream], either. I have one with the 1979 original water pump and it still runs great for hours and almost no water discharge. I think that it runs as almost air-cooled anyway. The heads get hot but not blazing. I would run it for a while and see how hot it gets. If it gets too hot then you should change the pump. Also I thinks it is funny that the minimum octane fuel is 67 and the oil that is need is TC-W not even the TC-W2. If you have any problems with it then it is the carburetor--always is. Just unbolt it and get it too sit in carburetor cleaner and slap it back together. These engine really are bullet proof.
Baseline posted 03-27-2003 02:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for Baseline  Send Email to Baseline     
This is a little bit off the topic, but related to your 2-HP Johnson.

I have a 1977 2-HP Johnson that a friend gave to me. It was stored for years and seized up. The local Johnson dealer wanted $400 to fix it. She gave it to me and within an hour I had it running. I have run it every year for the last 15 years, they are very good motors.

The only problems I ever with it was poor low speed performance and damp points, which I fixed by doing two things.

I increase the diameter of the above-water exhaust holes. I drilled out to about a 3/8-inch. two of the four exhaust holes in the midsection, to eliminate the exhaust back pressure above the water at low speed Made a world of difference, no more chugging, sputtering and dying at slow idle.

I replace the points and condenser on the motor with a replacement Electronic Ignition Unit for a lawn mower: Yes, a lawn mower. The electronic ignition is waterproof and makes the motor run great at all speeds, all the way down to a heart beat. The unit discharges 5 to 14 times per revolution; the first discharge starts the combustion process and the other discharges increases efficiency, burning more of the available fuel without knocking or pinging. All the motors that I tried these units on have run better than at any other time. They also increase reliably and last for years. If I remember correctly my 2-HP model had a [positive] ground. The ignition unit is designed to operate with both a [positive] ground or a [negative] ground, no problem.

The first time I tried this in an outboard, was because I was having trouble locating points for a 20-HP 1967 Chrysler outboard. To date my Chrysler runs great, I have put about 1,000-hours on it since I bought it in 1979. I have these ignition units on several old outboard motors up to 25-HP, from the 1950's, 1960's, and 1970's, and they work great every time. Two cylinder engine need two units, one for each coil. Try them at your own risk, but they are the best $13 I have spent on an old motor.

Below is the information on the Electronic Ignition unit.

Electronic Ignition Unit Replaces Points and Condenser: Fires small engine spark plug 5 to 14 times with each impulse. Fits most 2 and 4-cycle, air-cooled engines. Maintenance-free. About the size of a quarter.

Search on Electronic Ignition or try the link below.

raygun posted 03-27-2003 05:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for raygun  Send Email to raygun     
Thanks a bunch Baseline! Sounds like good advice.
vincentsail posted 07-07-2010 10:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for vincentsail  Send Email to vincentsail     
I am resurrecting one of these motors [and also this discussion], from a long hibernation. Mine a 1976 2hp Seahorse.

Had a ignition [malfunction] that is fixed. Now it runs fast and slow but loads up on [fuel] when it warms up and floods out. Figure the carburetor should be gone through, as I have not even removed the bowl.

I got the OEM/Johnson carburetor rebuild kit (from Crowley Marine) Part # 0398532, and there are no instructions. I would at least like to know exactly which ring goes where instead of guessing. I have done some British SU carburetors, but this is my first carburetor like this. Most of the stuff makes sense.

Crowley and other sites post the original diagram

of parts and exploded view of the carburetor and other components. How can I find out exactly where each part goes? Or even which of the rings was provided in the kit? Crowley said some kits come with instructions others do not. I am making a call to Johnson who makes and markets the kit even though they say they do not accept technical calls for products made before 1996.

Thanks to any of you who have purchased and installed the carburetor service kit.

vincentsail posted 07-08-2010 10:26 AM ET (US)     Profile for vincentsail  Send Email to vincentsail     
I got a Johnson Tech to speak with me yesterday. He said all the little rings go with the needle valves. So I guess the mystery is solved. I kept the call short and concise and he was very happy to help. Hats off to Johnson. He said if I had a service manual the kit is explained in there.

I took the carb off and took the bowl off this morning and set it in some paint thiner. I found that the 'gland' nut for the upper needle was totally loosened up and letting in air, so it's good I gave up trying to make it run without a carb service. The old float looks like wood, can this be?

I'll hopefully post in a day or two that it is running like a champ. They I am heading to South Haven Michigan with it a the safety kicker on my 17' homebuilt Eastern Shore Sharpie Sailboat design Ruel Parker.

vincentsail posted 07-13-2010 10:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for vincentsail  Send Email to vincentsail     
As promised here is my update: [The 1976 Johnson 2-HP motor] runs great and starts easily in my driveway. See you on [Lake Michigan]. My sail [octothorpe] is "327."

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