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Author Topic:   Replacing switch plates and wiring
rsgwynn1 posted 03-24-2003 10:46 PM ET (US)   Profile for rsgwynn1   Send Email to rsgwynn1  
I have a 1983 22' Revenge Cuddy, and I can't keep any of the switches--deck lights, navigation lights, instrument lights, etc.--working. The space under the steering wheel is a nightmare of old wires--many of them left over from discarded devices--corroded fuse blocks, and bad connections. I'm about at the point where I'd like to yank all of this old wiring and switch panels out and start over. Has anyone had any experience with this? The control panel has two switch plates--about 4x8" each--with the standard pull and toggle switches. Who makes a good replacement panel. I assume that state-of-the-art stuff would dispense with all of the fuses and have circuit breakers. Has anyone had any experience with this kind of rewiring job? Who sells switch plates? I'd probably get my mechanic to do most of the work, but I need an idea of how complicated it would be. All of the controls for the ignition, tilt and trim, and trim tabs work fine; it's just the lights that are giving me fits.
doobee posted 03-24-2003 10:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for doobee  Send Email to doobee     
Blue Seas makes a good quality product.

Hella Marine makes a waterproof switch panel.

White Bear posted 03-25-2003 12:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for White Bear  Send Email to White Bear     
Wiring is simple and intuitive. Get a decent book on marine electrical systems, rip out all of the old work and start from scratch.
Not only will you have new components that you can trust, but if something does go wrong you will know exactly where to look for the fix. As it is your boat, I'm sure that you will do a more thorough job than anyone you hire to do the work. Wiring is truly a learning experience and it is fun.
Morocco posted 03-25-2003 02:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for Morocco  Send Email to Morocco     
Everything electrical on my 25 Revenge that has been intermittent (except the windshield mounted wiper motor, which was literally filled with a solid chunk of rust) has been repaired by using a multimeter at the end of the circuit to check for continuity, then following the wires back until I found the broken/loose/wrong/shorting connector installed by the previous owner's.

It became so predictable that I now laugh about playing 'find the connector' -- even with all the talk of marine wire, etc, I have yet to find a broken wire in mid-run or a place where corrosion has gone more than an inch or two up from a connector.

I've thought about doing the same as you, replacing everything with new switches, breakers, etc, but don't have the time, and I like the old style switches (yeah, I like the old wood too).

The trick, if you do it 'bit by bit' like me is to keep track of everything, and upgrade the connectors, routing, etc. as you go. The stuff looks a lot better after the first third of the work, since a little cleaning up goes a long way -- i.e. removing old unused wires, bundling and hanging groups, and cleaning connections.

If you haven't done any electrical work, I also suggest any of the excellent 'boatowners/sailors' electrical manuals available at West, BoatUS, etc. -- just remember the basic safety rules cited there.

Most of the wiring on a Revenge style boat is pretty simple and once you get the hang of it, it is easy to do and do well.

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