Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
|Author||Topic: Paint AGAIN|
posted 03-28-2003 01:57 PM ET (US)
I have reviewed and printed most of the threads in this section bearing on the relative merits of painting versus re-gelcoating repaired areas. There is substantial disagreement in the historical threads, so I'm resurfacing the issue (pun intended) to see if the experiences of the last year or so have produced a consensus.
I have patched, filled, and sanded numerous small holes, cracks, and blemishes in my interior gelcoat. I'm now ready to resurface the entire interior of the boat. I had planned to paint all of the smooth surfaces, including the console and the seams between the deck panels, with Awlgrip.
When I called our distributor to buy the Awlgrip he asked me if I was a professional painter. He said that Awlgrip is wonderful stuff, but it's EXTREMELY difficult to apply properly - especially with the "roll and tip" method. After sharing a few horror stories he told me that most inexperienced painters could achieve a better end result using Easypoxy (but the surface would be MUCH less durable). I told him that I had heard bad stuff about Easypoxy and I needed durability. He ultimately recommended priming with the 545 catalyst and then painting with "Amershield", a two part polyurethane. I think that's about the only product that wasn't mentioned in the older threads.
I need durability, obviously, but I also need to find a product that is somewhat forgiving to allow for my marginal competence. Any thoughts?
posted 03-29-2003 08:26 AM ET (US)
Have any of you less experienced painters successfully tried the roll and tip method with Awlgrip?
Any good reports on Sterling or Easypoxy?
Are the polyurethane products less brittle than gelcoat?
posted 03-29-2003 11:17 AM ET (US)
I too asked a few questions about paints etc etc. I decided to go with easypoxy for the same reasons. As far as durability I was informed by pettit that it should have excellent durability as long as proper surface preparation was done. I bought all pettit components to o with it. Time will tell but the amount of money saved on pain I could repaint with easy poxy 3 times before even getting close to the price of the awlgrip. Few dings I can always repaint that area and feather in.
posted 03-29-2003 10:23 PM ET (US)
Shane, since you can't use the two-part, polyurethane paints over the top of the Easypoxy if it ever fails, you'd have to sand ALL of the Easypoxy off before switching to a two part primer and paint. (At least that's what the Alwgrip rep said.) That's why I'm still sitting on the fence. Making the wrong choice on this decision could result in a HUGE amount of work.
posted 03-30-2003 09:42 AM ET (US)
i am finishing up the total refurbishment of my 1984 montauk. i painted the entire boat with interlux two part polyurethane. i preped the hull to their exact standards and then sprayed the boat following their recomendations carefuly. turned out great. the only corner i cut was the substitution of accetone for the west marine 202 fiberglass solvent wash when wiping the hull down prior to spraying. have seen other projects completed with the roll and tip method. looked good but not as nice as spraying. i think the interlux products are more user friendly especialy if you are a novice like me. awlgrip is difficult to apply and more expensive. may be a little more durable but should not be sugnificant. would not use easypoxy. just dont think it will hold up.
posted 03-30-2003 08:54 PM ET (US)
I have painted two boats. The first a 14 mckee.I sprayed with easypoxy. I was impressed with how hard a single part paint could cure. I painted the boat white outside blue inside paint looked great when I sold the boat a year later.
The second boat is a project 15 I am working on now. I have sprayed the bottom with a off white awlgrip paint. I sprayed the sides and smirk with fighting lady yellow. I used all the recomended primers and the paint looks great. I got one run which I plan on sanding and buffing.
The biggest differance I found between the two paints is the easypoxy is much more forgiveing in covering body work. The higher gloss awlgrip is really not that hard to work with but it will show how well you did your surface work. I am not a boat painter these are my only two paint jobs. the first boat I borrowed a spray gun the second I bought a $40.00 gun at lowes. I would say ues a better paint than easypoxy on a boat that will last like a whaler.
posted 03-30-2003 10:52 PM ET (US)
Nobody mentioned a "tie-coat" Do some more research...
posted 03-31-2003 12:32 AM ET (US)
I would advise against skipping the 202 solvent wash. It is designed to remove oils and wax, and the acetone evaporates too quickly to do a good job of this. A quart of the stuff goes a long way, and it ultimately determines if the paint adheres properly or not. Acetone has a tendency to soften the wax enough to let you smear it around, but not enough to let you completely remove it. Also, change rags a lot so you don't just reapply the wax and oil someplace else on the boat.
posted 03-31-2003 11:50 AM ET (US)
I've posted numerous times on the wonderful results I've had using Sterling. If you haven't read them, do a search.
My father is redoing a boat now & is using Awlgrip for the interior & Sterling for the hullsides...he couldn't find the color he wanted in Sterling & he decided to give Awlgrip a try using the roll & tip method. He is not yet done, but his initial impressions are that the Awlgrip isn't that much more difficult to use than Sterling...but the results don't look any better than the Sterling jobs we've done either. But it's early in the process, he may have different conclusions by the time he's done.
Using two part paints is a much bigger job than easypoxy, but the results are very much superior in looks & durability. But you can do a 2 part paint job yourself using the roll & tip method.
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