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Author Topic:   Flywheel removal
California Whaler posted 04-30-2003 11:22 PM ET (US)   Profile for California Whaler   Send Email to California Whaler  
I am tring to replace a bad regulator on my 88 Johnson 90hp. Easy right? Wrong. After purchase of the almost 200.00 regulator, the 25.00 gear puller and the 10.00 1 5/16" socket, I find the nut is frozen. I searched a few sites for help. This fine site mentioned an Impact wrench. I borrow one and still no good. I soak nut with every lubricant in the garage cabinet. No go. I am almost ready to buy the tool which holds the flywheel in place and get out the breaker bar. I can't beleive something which I invisioned to be a simple task became so tough. I guess my investment in time and money is the reason Marine mechanics command 60 to 100 dollars an hour. Any ideas?


bsmotril posted 05-01-2003 09:44 AM ET (US)     Profile for bsmotril  Send Email to bsmotril     
Screw a couple of lifting eyes into the bolt holes in the flywheel. Attach hoist and suspend motor an inch over the ground with a piece of soft wood under the skeg. Get another nut the same size as the flywheel nut, and back them both against each other at the top of the shaft so they protect the shaft threads. Now tap the nuts with a bronze hammer with the motor suspended by the flywheel. Sometimes, heat applied with a propane torch will help. Be ready to catch the motor and keep it from tipping when the shaft drops through the flywheel.
newt posted 05-01-2003 10:48 AM ET (US)     Profile for newt  Send Email to newt     
When you say impact wrench, did you borrow an electric or air powered wrench or did you have a manual hit-with-a-hammer type? I ask, because the electric or air powered are the way to go.
California Whaler posted 05-01-2003 01:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for California Whaler  Send Email to California Whaler     
I used an air impact wrench. 100lbs at the discharge, but 3/8" hose might be restricting the flow. Did'nt seem to be providing too much torque. Maybe larger hose or better quality impact wrench. Maybe, put the cowling back on and take it to a shop.

Still frustrated
newt posted 05-01-2003 04:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for newt  Send Email to newt     
Well you are using the right sounds like you have a real stubborn nut. I have an electric impact that I bought from Sears about 10 years ago, and while it really doesn't have much torque, the repeated hammering usually will loosen up stubborn nuts eventually.

A note of caution, don't make the mistake that I made (after which I bought the impact wrench!). I was trying to replace the clutch assembly on my motorcycle, and lacking the proper tools, I used a large screw driver wedged in just right to hold one part of the clutch while I went after the nut with a large breaker bar and socket. Sure enough, I snapped off a piece of the clutch assembly!

Anyway, sorry I can't be of much help. Good luck!

Salmon Tub posted 05-01-2003 05:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for Salmon Tub  Send Email to Salmon Tub     
Uh, did you remember to get a spanner wrench? Even on little outboards, those nuts are torqued down real tight, some even beyond 100 lbs, so, you will need one to hold the flywheel in place. It basically bolts onto the other threaded holes in the flywheel so you can hold it and keep the flywheel from turning.
Whalerdan posted 05-02-2003 07:54 AM ET (US)     Profile for Whalerdan  Send Email to Whalerdan     
I did this same job a little over a year ago. With mine the air impact and WD40 (sitting over night) worked. I was thinking you might try some heat. But of course you'd have to be very careful with flame and fuel lines.
California Whaler posted 05-02-2003 11:10 AM ET (US)     Profile for California Whaler  Send Email to California Whaler     

I have thought about heat, but am afraid of damaging something else.

Salmon tub,

I have looked for a spanner wrench (flywheel holder) am not sure of the correct tool #. If it's not off by today, it goes to Diablo Marine in Martinez. The sevice department say it could take up to two hours to remove. You would think with the correct tools it would take about 30 seconds. Oh, well she's worth it.


Salmon Tub posted 05-02-2003 01:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for Salmon Tub  Send Email to Salmon Tub     
You can try to make one:

Buy two pieces of flat steel stock, at least 1/4 inch thick. One say 12" long, the other 30" long. lay pieces flat on top of each other with one end together. drill hole through both at each end of the 12" piece. Bolt them together at the "middle" hole will look somewhat like scissors, missing one handle. Take a piece of PVC that fits snuggly around the stock, so with 1" flat stock, use PVC with a 1" inner diameter. Slide over the 18" single piece to form a handle. Use the two holes at the other two ends to mount to Flywheel via bolts into bolt holes. Make sure you mount it so that the force on the smaller arm is a pulling force rather than a pushing force so it does not buckel. The thicher the stock the better.

This is the Gilligan's Island Spanner.

You can make the "span" shorter (what I specified here as 12", depending on how much clearance you need.

California Whaler posted 05-02-2003 02:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for California Whaler  Send Email to California Whaler     
Salmon Tub,
Great tip. Heading out to purchase the steel. I'll post the results.


simonmeridew posted 05-02-2003 09:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for simonmeridew  Send Email to simonmeridew     
Forget heat and a bigger wrench.
Take a spark plug out and stuff a foot or so of clothesline rope into the spark plug hole when the piston is in the down position. Put a wrench on the nut and turn it off. The rope keeps the flywheel from turning, after the rope is compressed under the head.
California Whaler posted 05-02-2003 10:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for California Whaler  Send Email to California Whaler     
I'm so happy, I could s***. You da man. The regulator is out. Cleaning old gasket material off now. Should I use adhesive along with the new gasket?
Thanks for the tip,


Steve Leone posted 05-03-2003 01:08 AM ET (US)     Profile for Steve Leone  Send Email to Steve Leone     
You are real lucky the rope did not get caught in the rings or ports. By all means use a sealer. Preferably Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket. Next time heat the nut up with a small propane torch. A flywheel holder is a recomended tool. Steve
simonmeridew posted 05-03-2003 06:44 AM ET (US)     Profile for simonmeridew  Send Email to simonmeridew     
Luck has nothing to do with it. Obviously you aren't trying to fill the whole engine with rope-just enough to provide a cushioned block inside the chamber to keep the crankshaft from turning. Clothesline rope is good because it has a nice soft cotton outer wrap and a strong nylon core.
May I say you're lucky you didn't torch the whole engine when you applied a flame about 4 inches from carbuerators filled with gasoline? Every outboard I've ever seen has an oily hydrocarbon film over everything. Flammable?
Steve Leone posted 05-04-2003 12:03 AM ET (US)     Profile for Steve Leone  Send Email to Steve Leone     
26 years fixing outboards. Never a problem. By all means do it your way. That offset extra pressure on that aluminum piston crown is real good too....and I am sure the wrist pin needle bearings just love it. Some one mentioned a substantial torque to tighten that nut. I wonder how much ungiving pressure your putting on the top of that piston? Steve
California Whaler posted 05-04-2003 11:58 AM ET (US)     Profile for California Whaler  Send Email to California Whaler     
I did not mean to cause controversy. I will say the job is done and I ran the boat yesterday. The charging system is working great. The gauges are back to normal (they were not prior to regulator change). No, illefects from the tip from Simonmeridew. But I do have a new problem.

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