Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
|Author||Topic: 13' rehab|
posted 05-19-2003 12:35 PM ET (US)
I'm in the middle of a serious rehab on a 1969-1971 13' sport (not sure which year). The little boat has extensive interior gelcoat cracking that I am NOT addressing at the current time (may do so later).
Two owners back, the bottom had antifouling paint on it. The next owner painted epoxy primer over the antifoul and then applied single part Interlux urethane (Brightside). He probably paid a lot for the paint job, but it sucked desperately.
Me and my boy, 12, have spent the last 2 weeks stripping everything out of the boat, flipping it, and stripping the bottom. We used 80 grit on DA air sanders, and probably got the gelcoat much wavier and thinner than before, but the boat had apparently had a hard life and was full of repairs (most of which were good strong repairs, if not particularly smooth).
After stripping to gelcoat (and in some places thru the gelcoat), we applied Interlux watertite filler and sanded smooth. We builtup the rear edge, and extended the little keel strips to match the angle of the transom. We also sharpened the rear corners of the cathedral steps (all in the interest of a more efficient hull). We also added a CNC machined slab of nylon to the transom and attached it with 5200 for a permanent motor mounting point. The original transom was rounded and would not properly support a modern motor. We now have a 17" wide flat transom addition to which we plan to bolt a hotrodded OMC 50 shortshaft with power trim.
Currently we have completed 4 coats of Interlux Intercoat 2000 waterproof barrier coat. We will add another coat 5 hrs prior to the antifouling for proper chemical bond.
The hull sides have been done in DuPont eopxy filler primer and Centauri single stage topcoat in GM white (a slight gray-blue tint). While the sides are a bit wavy from our extensive stripping and sanding, it looks great to me.
We have white TACO vinyl rubrail to attach when we are that far along (we ordered the aqua insert strip to go in it).
** by the way, we ordered the 70 foot rubrail so we would have enough to do TWO Whalers instead of the slightly cheaper 50' kit that would leave us with a bunch of extra but not enough to do another boat. We did this so we could sell the remaining 35' of rubrail to one of you guys and help defray some cost for all parties involved.**
The bow eye and other issues have been properly repaired and the hull exterior will be A1.
The mahogany looks nice now that we have stripped it completely back to wood to rid the parts of the residential cheap crap tinted urethane the previous owner had used in redoing the wood.. Brown mahogany filler stain followed by Captains Varnish will follow (1 coat so far, humidity is slowing the cure time).
All hull holes for fasteners are being opened up and large plugs of marinetex is being put in for a proper bite for the fasteners.
The mahogany "dash" piece has been angled slightly downward for a more "rakish" look.
Full instrumentation will be added using pieces of PCV pipe that the gauges will fit into. These PVC pieces will be cut on a rakish angle and will be fastened to the dash with good ole 5200 after cutting the correct clearance holes in the wood itself.
This will be son's boat, and he will be given full rein to personalize it with flames and shark mouth on the bow (in non-permananet vinyl decals).
I am taking the bow rails to the shop today to replace the Zamak fittings with solid stainless. I will then carefully Tig weld the rail to the fittings and will repolish for a more sturdy feel. I also plan to lower the bow rails to a good height for kids (low enough for them to step over at the docks, high enough for good safety).
Pictures to follow for anybody interested...
posted 05-23-2003 09:03 PM ET (US)
What about those bow rails or have u already gotten rid of them if not how much will it cost?
posted 05-24-2003 10:57 AM ET (US)
Wow, you did a thorough explanation of your restoration. Yes, I would like to see some pictures of your hard work.
posted 06-02-2003 09:20 AM ET (US)
Are you asking to buy my bow rails? I'm not getting rid of them, I'm only shortening them and replacing the cheap cast fittings with solid stainless ones so I can weld it into a solid structural unit.
Having trouble finding fittings where it attaches to the hull.. Those fittings appear to be different than any currently available..
Anybody got a source for OE rail fittings? I may have to settle for Zamak for the bottom fittings (which will be okay if I 5200 the rails into them - cause the top fittings are solid SS and are now welded solid).
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posted 07-14-2003 10:06 AM ET (US)
as with most projects, this one is dragging longer than anticipated. Son and I took a break from it, but are getting back to it.
Hull from rubrail down is finished. Bottom paint is thick and burnished to a smooth surface. Hullsides are shiny 2-part Centauri automotive urethane and look great. Rubrail is white vinyl taco bonded to hull with rivets and white 5200. Rear corners are cut to wrap around for added protection.
Wood has 5 coats of Captain's Varnish. Console pieces have been modified extensively. Using single cable push pull steering and had to clear side support for steering housing. Angle bored gauge holes for PVC gauge mounts (made from 3" PVC couplings and pieces of 2" PVC pipe for gauges). Machined thru holes for switch plates and illuminated rocker switches.
Waiting for bedliner kit to arrive. Ordered it in a lightish blue color. Will experiment with amount of rubber to determine best nonskid versus comfort. Planning to spray floor, front locker, and splashwell.
Will then be installing scupper valve on splashwell bulkhead and aluminum screen over interior floor drain to keep trash out of the scupper.
Have found a diagram for an automatic pump switch that uses copper foil "sensors" to turn the pump on and off. I plan to cut the nose of a livewell pump down to stick down into the splashwell drain "ditch" and attach the foil sensors to the nose of the pump itself to keep the water down below an inch in the splashwell drain which should keep the splashwell completely dry. An added capacitor to the switch should make it run a few additional seconds after dry to keep the water from sloshing back into the well (I'm adding a checkvalve to the pump hose to keep water out as well).
I found solid stainless rail fittings and have changed the plan from welding to siver soldering in case I ever need to take it apart for repairs, etc.. Soldering stainless is trickey but with the proper flux it is entirely possible.
Thinking about adding some LED downlights to the interior. Should be no problem to run necessary wire thru rubrail under the cosmetic insert. Can then drill thru to hullside and fish wire to light location. Might worry about this at a later date (in my switch panel I have a "courtesy light" switch and it is eating me up what to do with it).
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