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Author Topic:   screw anchor inserts
gcl posted 05-29-2003 08:34 AM ET (US)   Profile for gcl   Send Email to gcl  
I have been hearing about plastic/rubber inserts that can be set into fiberglass to serve as anchor/inserts that expand when a screw is driven into it.

My Nauset has an "after market" cooler seat. Some of the anchor points for the seat are into the 4" wide embedded wood strip - and others are merely set through the fiberglass and into the foam. My thought is if these inserts are effective, setting them into the areas without the wood backing and having them serve as anchors for the seat fasteners.

Anyone have an experience or thoughts on this they would like to share ??

ratherwhalering posted 05-29-2003 11:38 AM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
The rubber anchor inserts on my Montauk did not function well. They were placed by the dealer when the original engine was installed, and hold the battery cable and VRO oil line brackets to the hull, along the base of the splash well and the base of the transom. They invariably pulled out, exposing a nice big hole for water intrusion into the foam. If you do a search, there is pretty simple way to create a secure epoxy backing that involves drilling a small hole, removing foam with a coathanger or similar device, then filling the void with epoxy and tapping it with a screw. I've never done it, but others here have submitted detailed explainations of the process.
gcl posted 05-29-2003 12:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for gcl  Send Email to gcl     
Ratherwhaling -thank you for the response.

You reference "tapping" the epoxied area with a screw - do you know if the area needs to actually be tapped or if a self tapping screw fastened into a drilled guide hole would work ? Thanks.

newt posted 05-29-2003 04:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for newt  Send Email to newt     
The previous owner of my Montauk cleverly used the blue plastic drywall anchors with wood screws to mount the bimini legs to the hull. They looked terrible and caused radial cracks in the glass.

To set a screw into epoxy, just drill a hole the same diameter as the shank of your screw. I have had good luck with regular coarse thread fasteners. There is no need to actually tap the hole first.

gcl posted 06-02-2003 04:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for gcl  Send Email to gcl     
Ok, I have my drill handy and the bent finishing nail that I'm going to place in the drill chock, insert into a drilled hole in the fiberglass,turn the drill on to gouge out some foam to create a void, vacuum out the foam particles, fill the voids with epoxy, drill a pilot hole in the hardened epoxy and set my faseners into it. Any horror stories out there relating to this activity ??????
lhg posted 06-02-2003 05:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
BW specifically used to recommend that only LIGHT duty connections be made, by whatever means, into non-backed glass.

The concern has always been that heavy duty fastenings, such as for rails, seats, consoles, batteries, consoles, cooler seats, etc., will pop/pull the glass away from the foam, destroying the boat's structural integrity. With a Whaler, once you have skin delaminated from foam, you have a problem.

The famous "West Systems" epoxy plug detail, in reality only a "Molly" toggle principle, is not recommended at all for Whaler's foam hulls, except for a light loads such as a drink or fishing rod holder, etc. The epoxy plug will definitely hold well behind the glass, so well in fact that the glass can be separated from the foam.

gcl posted 06-02-2003 07:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for gcl  Send Email to gcl     
hmmm, it seems the epoxy plug may not be the answer. I've put my drill down while I solicit others thoughts on this matter. Any comments ? (please)
daverdla posted 06-02-2003 07:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for daverdla  Send Email to daverdla     
The rubber nuts you refer to are called "well nuts". If you search for them on this forum, you'll find some more information. They are used for light duty. I got some last year at Sears Hardware. The local boating supply did not have any.
Dave
ratherwhalering posted 06-04-2003 04:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
gcl: I think you might be O.K. with the process described for cooler seat mounts. I stress might, and welcome other members input on me reasoning here. The mounts keep the cooler from sliding around, I assume, and the cooler is probably bungeed to the mounts. There are many systems for mounting coolers, but ask how much lateral and upward stress are you really putting on it. If a 200+ person sits on the cooler, there is no real stress on the mount. In addition, at least some of the mounts are embedded in wood backing. Now if that same cooler is full of salmon, ice, and 2 cases of (empty) beer bottles, and you are in choppy seas with the same 200+ guy sloshing around atop the cooler, that may very well be a problem. I think some questions are in order. One, what are you gonna to use it for? Two, can you obtain original mounts (or redesign the existing mounts) so that all are embedded in the wood backing? If not, do you want to just remove the cooler? If you must have the cooler, then secure it by the best method available, which is as described. Good luck!

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