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  Cook Mfg. Hyd. Jack Plate, Good but.....

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Author Topic:   Cook Mfg. Hyd. Jack Plate, Good but.....
Steve Leone posted 06-08-2003 05:27 PM ET (US)   Profile for Steve Leone   Send Email to Steve Leone  
Some one should patent the following elements combined: Stainless, aluminum and salt water. You will find no better locktite. I just spent 4 hours and $56.00 on drill bits trying to remove the upper stainless compression pin to remove the electric hydraulic assembly. It still is not out yet. I am cursing Cook Mfg for not using a solid clevis pin (slighty smaller of course). I have torched the BeJesus out of it and my right shoulder ball and socket is burning from slamming a stainless steel punch with a 3lb slegde. I am about to cut the dam thing out. Steve
lhg posted 06-09-2003 03:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
I have often wondered how well the Cook units hold up in salt water.

Anybody using an engine bracket in salt water should service the bracket frequently, to avoid this kind of corrosion. Anti-seize compound works well on the ss bolts in the aluminum. Once a year, I crank my engine up and down about 2" to move all the parts and prevent them from freezing.

On my Springfield marine brackets, I have installed 4 of the Mercury aluminum "threaded nut anodes" on each bracket, on the exposed bolt thread ends. These protect the bracket from aluminum galvanic corrosion.
On a recent trip, after only 12 days in the salt, the anodes were significantly degraded, so they do protect the bracket.

Steve Leone posted 06-10-2003 12:26 AM ET (US)     Profile for Steve Leone  Send Email to Steve Leone     
I finally removed the stainless compression pin. Much heat, much force. I removed the electric motor cap and brush assembly only to find salt water had entered the unit. To my dismay Cook had only used a skimpy o-ring with no sealer to waterproof the unit. I sent the armature out and had it rebuilt and changed the brush assembly. I sealed the bugger with Sikaflex. Refilled with 20wt hyd. oil and it worked fine. I replaced the compressionn pin with a 3/8 stainless bolt. There was not enough clearance to thread a nylock nut to the bolt. Instead I drilled a 3/16 hole at the end of the bolt and put a keeper bolt with nylock nut. I run teardrop zinqs on either side of the plate (at the bottom). Cheap and easy. Steve

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