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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
steering conversion on an older 13ft
|Author||Topic: steering conversion on an older 13ft|
posted 06-18-2003 05:19 PM ET (US)
I have heard there is a kit to offset the steering cable so that it does not hit the side of the cutout in the transom. This is used when converting from cable and pulleys to the teleflex system. If any one could tell me where to find some info on them,I would appreciate it. Thanks
posted 06-18-2003 08:11 PM ET (US)
I am assuming from your name that you have a 13. Just put a jackplate on- you will never have to worry about it hitting. Honestly though, I have never seen the offset you are speaking of. It would be tough to do I think, as the rod has to be straight to go through the tube. I would think this would limit your steering if it were turned up at the end.
posted 06-18-2003 11:01 PM ET (US)
I found a stand off kit that teleflex offers, there is a piece that also goes to the front of the motor to match the off- set. I currently have a jack plate, but was going to repower with a 15" shaft to get a more orignal look. I also am adding power trim and tilt and was concerned about the extra weight being 5 inches higher and 3 inches further off the transom. I guess I could have the notch built up, but really don"t want to do that.
posted 06-19-2003 03:17 AM ET (US)
Yes, I can't think of what the name of the part is but, I installed it on my 13' last year. The control arm is attatched to the transom via a "tree" that bolts through the transom. The "tree" as I will call it, is in the teleflex order catalog and I think I paid about $60. I bought the teleflex and tried to install it in the tube but, it doesn't work, as you described. All you need is to drill 4 holes and through-bolt the tree that holds the teleflex arm that pushes and pulls the motor to steer. Sorry, I can't remember the parts' real name but, it works great and it was only 4 holes to drill. Your local shop should be able to find it in the teleflex catalog. It took me less than 15 minutes to install the teleflex after I bought the "tree". I cut out two aluminum plates for both sides of the transom to help disperse any strain that the tree would put on the transom. Good luck
posted 06-19-2003 09:58 AM ET (US)
If your console location has not been modified from factory install location, you will need a 9' teleflex cable.
An 8' cable is too short and the 10' is too long and will hang out the end of the boat. The cable cannot be dressed due to its stiffness. It must be exact and 9' is for the 13 sport.
posted 06-19-2003 10:22 AM ET (US)
The standoff you are asking about is called a clamp block. The Teleflex part number is SA27149P for stainless steel or SA27055P for zinc plated, you will also need a Teleflex part number SA27576P clevis kit
posted 06-19-2003 07:30 PM ET (US)
A friend of mine just bought a '63 13' with a '85 short shaft Johnson 40 hp. It had been converted to a Teleflex cable with a device made by T&R Marine. Unlike the Teleflex or Morse standoff mentioned above that must be bolted thru the transom to the starboard side of the engine, this device is mounted on the steering tube of the motor between the left and right side brackets and provides a steering tube about 4 inches forward of the steering tube on the motor. This device tilts with the motor keeping the new steering tube parallel with the original steering tube on the motor thus not creating any binding or misalignment condition at the motor steering linkage. It appears to be a stout high quality machined aluminum part. I also have a '66 13' that I am working on and if I end up with a transom mounted motor this is the best way I have seen to prevent the steering rod from hitting the offset. (Depending on my final motor choice I may end up with a CMC tilt/trim that will offset the motor aft of the transom and eliminate this problem.) I have done a little searching on the net and it appears T&R Marine parts are available from some of the online part suppliers, but you may need to go to a full service boat deal/rigger.
posted 06-19-2003 11:30 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the info, I currently have a jack plate and a 30 hp mariner. I wanted to go to a 40 with trim and tilt and found out tha nissan(tohatsu) makes a 15" with t & t. I was leaning toward that ,but a 20" is only $50.00 more and leave it on the jack plate. So far I have about $1500.00 in the rig and I wonder if investing $4,000 in a new motor is the way to go. I guess it,s a small price to pay to own a classic.
posted 06-20-2003 01:46 AM ET (US)
If you have a jack plate you will be able to use the stock motor tube and not worry about a stand off. I have the stand off and I mounted it after carefully placing it while the motor was in a raised position so there would not be any binding when the motor is trimmed up or lifted. My motor lifts fine, does not bind with the teleflex stand off and was very easy to install. I like the idea of not drilling holes but, I don't have a perfect refinish and wasn't worried about 4 through bolts in the transom.
posted 06-20-2003 01:12 PM ET (US)
My boat is far from being a full restoration, I sanded it down and repainted, replaced the wood and we use it for scalloping and trout fishing and tube rides. I'm leaning toward the long shaft because of no more mods necessary and the resale of a 20 is not as limited. Thanks for the input.
posted 06-20-2003 01:19 PM ET (US)
If you buy a 20 hp long shaft you will need a jack plate. My brother in law bought a 25 long shaft not thinking of the mounting. He fabricated one of his own but, he is an experienced welder. Your boat won't run right with a long shaft just mounted to the transom.
posted 06-20-2003 01:22 PM ET (US)
Sorry, I missed your previous post and assumed you didn't want to add additional items like a jackplate.
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