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Author Topic:   Thermostats will not open. Any tricks?

Kurt Gett posted 06-25-2003 01:08 PM ET (US)
It is a 1979 100 HP Evin. The bolts are frozen on the thermostat cover preventing any access to replace the thermostats. In the past, when first started for the season, they would not open at first, but after warming up to the buzzer ~180 deg, I would shut her down and they would open after that. Not this year though. Does anyone know of any tricks to free them up? Pouring oil down into the housing or something? Help. regards, KG
Tom2697 posted 06-25-2003 02:50 PM ET (US)
Kurt,
Depending upon your mechanical abilities, you might consider having a shop remove the bolts. Otherwise, try a penetrating oil like PB Blaster, WD-40, Creep, etc. There are other techniques (impact driver, heat, etc.) but these can (and often do) cause more harm than good. One technique that might work if you do it gently is to GENTLY tap the heads of the bolts (and only the heads of the bolts!) with a hammer. This can often break the corrosion enough to allow a wrench to turn the bolts. There is a good chance though that the bolt heads will break with any of these techniques. Hence why I recommend going to a mechanic.
In any case, get the bolts removed and change the thermostat! It's an easy way to detroy a motor with a bad thermostat. Paying a mechanic to remove the bolts is a lot cheaper than buying a brand new motor...
bsmotril posted 06-25-2003 05:14 PM ET (US)
The best thing for removing steel screws from aluminum castings is an impact driver. They are commonly used on motorcycles and work great on outboards. You can pick up a handheld one for less than 20$ They have interchangeable screw bits, or sockets. You put it on the screw and wack the end with a hammer. It translates the wack into a simultaneous compression force and a twist on the screw. a few good wacks and the screw will release.
BillS
Jarhead posted 06-25-2003 05:54 PM ET (US)
Kurt..
If you take it to a mechanic you'll be paying him, in all likelihood, to use an impact driver to loosen the bolts.
They really are easy to use and work well.
Familiarize yourself with the instructions and you'll do fine. :)
Don't forget to use new bolts with "No-Freeze" or other such product applied to the threads.
Clark Roberts posted 06-25-2003 06:14 PM ET (US)
Try the old "heat wrench" (torch) and heat the blazes out of those bolts (assumming that they are in an accessable position... keep firex handy) and then use the impact screwdriver with socket attachment... Good luck... Clark.. Spruce Creek Navy
Kurt Gett posted 06-26-2003 09:12 AM ET (US)
Thanks for your responses. I did have it to my mechanic a few yrs ago and ask to have them replaced. He was unable to get the bolts off. He tried like heck. He told me he soaked them in acid and every other trick he knew of. The bottom bolt is hard to access and I can barely get a socket on it, or even a torch flame. What I was hoping to hear from you guys is not how to free the bolts, but how to free the thermostats. Regards, KG
Whalerdan posted 06-26-2003 09:15 AM ET (US)
Clark,
Just asking a question here.... Seems like heating the bolt would cause it to expand and make it tighter. I always though, and do, heat the female threads when I try using heat. In this case, if I'm not mistaken, it would seem kind of hard to do as the block would have the female threads.
Danny
Whalerdan posted 06-26-2003 09:19 AM ET (US)
Kurt,
I was reading in another forum about getting to those bolts. I read where some guys drilled hole in the lower cowling so they could access them with a socket. When they were done they duct taped over the outside and filled the inside with expoxy. Then they pulled off the tape (after drying) sanded and painted it. Next time they went to pull the stats they just poped out the plugs with a ball peen hammer and did it again.
Danny
goldstem posted 06-26-2003 09:30 AM ET (US)
I have the 1981 140 hp (humpback) version of that motor.
Lucky for me my thermostats are frozen open. My mechanic told me that getting those old thermostats out would be a major project. after 22 year in salt water, that motor owes us nothing, and when it finally (if ever) fails, it's getting replaced... anything over $200 and its a gonner!
Steve Leone posted 06-29-2003 03:38 AM ET (US)
"SaltAway" and my Backflusher. Easy Peasy. Steve
whalernut posted 06-29-2003 07:42 AM ET (US)
I don`t have the Saltwater issues some of you all have, but i have had some nuts and bolts that were very stubborn and rusty and the PB Blaster have been my saving grace every time, that stuff works like magic to me :) Jack.
acseatsri posted 06-30-2003 01:58 PM ET (US)
Regarding the torch issue- for the most part it works because aluminum expands at a greater rate than steel when it is heated, so the threads expand around the bolt more than the threads on the bolt expand.

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Author	Topic: Thermostats will not open. Any tricks?
Kurt Gett	posted 06-25-2003 01:08 PM ET (US) It is a 1979 100 HP Evin. The bolts are frozen on the thermostat cover preventing any access to replace the thermostats. In the past, when first started for the season, they would not open at first, but after warming up to the buzzer ~180 deg, I would shut her down and they would open after that. Not this year though. Does anyone know of any tricks to free them up? Pouring oil down into the housing or something? Help. regards, KG
Tom2697	posted 06-25-2003 02:50 PM ET (US) Kurt, Depending upon your mechanical abilities, you might consider having a shop remove the bolts. Otherwise, try a penetrating oil like PB Blaster, WD-40, Creep, etc. There are other techniques (impact driver, heat, etc.) but these can (and often do) cause more harm than good. One technique that might work if you do it gently is to GENTLY tap the heads of the bolts (and only the heads of the bolts!) with a hammer. This can often break the corrosion enough to allow a wrench to turn the bolts. There is a good chance though that the bolt heads will break with any of these techniques. Hence why I recommend going to a mechanic. In any case, get the bolts removed and change the thermostat! It's an easy way to detroy a motor with a bad thermostat. Paying a mechanic to remove the bolts is a lot cheaper than buying a brand new motor...
bsmotril	posted 06-25-2003 05:14 PM ET (US) The best thing for removing steel screws from aluminum castings is an impact driver. They are commonly used on motorcycles and work great on outboards. You can pick up a handheld one for less than 20$ They have interchangeable screw bits, or sockets. You put it on the screw and wack the end with a hammer. It translates the wack into a simultaneous compression force and a twist on the screw. a few good wacks and the screw will release. BillS
Jarhead	posted 06-25-2003 05:54 PM ET (US) Kurt.. If you take it to a mechanic you'll be paying him, in all likelihood, to use an impact driver to loosen the bolts. They really are easy to use and work well. Familiarize yourself with the instructions and you'll do fine. :) Don't forget to use new bolts with "No-Freeze" or other such product applied to the threads.
Clark Roberts	posted 06-25-2003 06:14 PM ET (US) Try the old "heat wrench" (torch) and heat the blazes out of those bolts (assumming that they are in an accessable position... keep firex handy) and then use the impact screwdriver with socket attachment... Good luck... Clark.. Spruce Creek Navy
Kurt Gett	posted 06-26-2003 09:12 AM ET (US) Thanks for your responses. I did have it to my mechanic a few yrs ago and ask to have them replaced. He was unable to get the bolts off. He tried like heck. He told me he soaked them in acid and every other trick he knew of. The bottom bolt is hard to access and I can barely get a socket on it, or even a torch flame. What I was hoping to hear from you guys is not how to free the bolts, but how to free the thermostats. Regards, KG
Whalerdan	posted 06-26-2003 09:15 AM ET (US) Clark, Just asking a question here.... Seems like heating the bolt would cause it to expand and make it tighter. I always though, and do, heat the female threads when I try using heat. In this case, if I'm not mistaken, it would seem kind of hard to do as the block would have the female threads. Danny
Whalerdan	posted 06-26-2003 09:19 AM ET (US) Kurt, I was reading in another forum about getting to those bolts. I read where some guys drilled hole in the lower cowling so they could access them with a socket. When they were done they duct taped over the outside and filled the inside with expoxy. Then they pulled off the tape (after drying) sanded and painted it. Next time they went to pull the stats they just poped out the plugs with a ball peen hammer and did it again. Danny
goldstem	posted 06-26-2003 09:30 AM ET (US) I have the 1981 140 hp (humpback) version of that motor. Lucky for me my thermostats are frozen open. My mechanic told me that getting those old thermostats out would be a major project. after 22 year in salt water, that motor owes us nothing, and when it finally (if ever) fails, it's getting replaced... anything over $200 and its a gonner!
Steve Leone	posted 06-29-2003 03:38 AM ET (US) "SaltAway" and my Backflusher. Easy Peasy. Steve
whalernut	posted 06-29-2003 07:42 AM ET (US) I don`t have the Saltwater issues some of you all have, but i have had some nuts and bolts that were very stubborn and rusty and the PB Blaster have been my saving grace every time, that stuff works like magic to me :) Jack.
acseatsri	posted 06-30-2003 01:58 PM ET (US) Regarding the torch issue- for the most part it works because aluminum expands at a greater rate than steel when it is heated, so the threads expand around the bolt more than the threads on the bolt expand.