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Author Topic:   Foam repair

ShadowF4 posted 06-28-2003 12:42 PM ET (US)
My son has removed the floor as he felt it was the best way to stop the leaking of sea water. I return home after a week to this.
Okay, I see they say to add 5 stringers. What material, do you fibregalss them to the hull? There are five longitudinal creases in the hull, do the stringers go in them?
I also read that you should put Biaxial Cloth on the hull interior, do you agree with this? It does seem a rather cheap step.
Finally, do you fill the hull interior with pouable erathane?
Thank you for any advice,
Chris
DIVE 1 posted 06-28-2003 09:15 PM ET (US)
ShadowF4,
What size Whaler are trying to repair? Define leaking of sea water. What is your experience level repairing fiberglass boats? More info required.
Jim
ShadowF4 posted 07-09-2003 05:48 PM ET (US)
It is a 13ft 1979 Whaler and iam wondering what is the best type of foam to use, is Pourable Urethane a good choose and what material do i use for the stringers and does anyone have any tips to putting stringers in.
Leaking of sea water is when i took the boat out of the water and it would not stop dripping of water for months so i removed the floor and all the foam found out it was all waterlogged i fiberglass the bottum in many areas put the boat back in the water no sign of any leakes and iam now wondering how i should refoam it. i have i high level of fiberglassing, does anyone have any tips on what to do next.
doobee posted 07-09-2003 08:22 PM ET (US)
First, you should put your son up for adoption, who knows what he'll do next!)
Then go to your local marine store for some prefabricated stringers. West sells a brand called Prisma. Most boats that size would only have 2 stringers. You'll never duplicate what was there, but more is certainly better. The strength is in the stringers and the fiberglass is just the means to attach the stringers. Biaxial may be more adhesive in nature.
Use a closed cell polyurethane foam to fill the gaps. It won't be as dense as the foam that was there but it will resist water absorption. Capping off the opening with marine grade plywood may also add some strength.
Remove some of the foam around the edge of the deck so you can tuck fiberglass under what's left of the existing deck when you encapsulate the existing foam. By glassing above and below the existing deck, you create a plug that is larger than the opening, which prevents the patch from popping off.
Finally, the source of water intrusion is not likely to be from above deck. It is probably from a crack in the outer hull, or a failed drain tube. If you don't stop the water at its source, you're likely to have the same problem again.
ShadowF4 posted 07-12-2003 06:43 PM ET (US)
I look everywhere and did not find anything on prefabricated stringers i called three different west marine stores none of them carried it or told me where i could get some. Is there anything else i can do.
also after i add the foam do i just fiberglass the floor on top or is there any steps i need to take before this thanks.
chris
DIVE 1 posted 07-13-2003 12:13 AM ET (US)
ShadowF4,
I have never used or seen premade stringers. We use kiln dried lumber and cut our own. To answer a lot of your questions, go to the search funtion and type in "biaxial". There are a few articles about installing stringers and refoaming. Then come back and post any unanswered questions.
Jim
ShadowF4 posted 07-15-2003 12:41 AM ET (US)
So i should put two layers of biaxial cloth with polyester resin straight to the inner outer hull first. Then i should put in 5 stringers secured down using the biaxial cloth and polyester resin running from the front the the back. what type of wood should i use and how tall or thick should it be. (this is where i get confused)Then do i add the 3/8 plywood on top of the stringers or not? How do i make a new deck with the same shape as the original one? Is the best way to add the new foam is to tilt the boat on the transom and to dril 2" holes a couple feet apart to the top and add foam from the stern to the bow untill each hole is full. then to fiberglass over the holes. is this right if iam missing something please tell me. thanks
ShadowF4 posted 07-16-2003 12:01 PM ET (US)
I mean vinyl ester resin instead of Polyester resin.
DIVE 1 posted 07-16-2003 08:20 PM ET (US)
ShadowF4,
You have a good path set for your project. I use any kiln dried 2x2, 2x4, etc, for making stringers. You need to make a cardboard template for each stringer prior to purchasing the lumber. The amount of curvature in the hull and deck height dictates the width of the lumber. You may need a 2x12 to get all of the curvature out of one board. We do not bend or bow the wood for the stringers, each one is cut to shape from a single board. The deck shape is dictated by the stringer shape. The 3/8" plywood is easy to bend to the stringer contours. Foaming is last and yes, you have the concept correct.
Jim

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Author	Topic: Foam repair
ShadowF4	posted 06-28-2003 12:42 PM ET (US) My son has removed the floor as he felt it was the best way to stop the leaking of sea water. I return home after a week to this. Okay, I see they say to add 5 stringers. What material, do you fibregalss them to the hull? There are five longitudinal creases in the hull, do the stringers go in them? I also read that you should put Biaxial Cloth on the hull interior, do you agree with this? It does seem a rather cheap step. Finally, do you fill the hull interior with pouable erathane? Thank you for any advice, Chris
DIVE 1	posted 06-28-2003 09:15 PM ET (US) ShadowF4, What size Whaler are trying to repair? Define leaking of sea water. What is your experience level repairing fiberglass boats? More info required. Jim
ShadowF4	posted 07-09-2003 05:48 PM ET (US) It is a 13ft 1979 Whaler and iam wondering what is the best type of foam to use, is Pourable Urethane a good choose and what material do i use for the stringers and does anyone have any tips to putting stringers in. Leaking of sea water is when i took the boat out of the water and it would not stop dripping of water for months so i removed the floor and all the foam found out it was all waterlogged i fiberglass the bottum in many areas put the boat back in the water no sign of any leakes and iam now wondering how i should refoam it. i have i high level of fiberglassing, does anyone have any tips on what to do next.
doobee	posted 07-09-2003 08:22 PM ET (US) First, you should put your son up for adoption, who knows what he'll do next!) Then go to your local marine store for some prefabricated stringers. West sells a brand called Prisma. Most boats that size would only have 2 stringers. You'll never duplicate what was there, but more is certainly better. The strength is in the stringers and the fiberglass is just the means to attach the stringers. Biaxial may be more adhesive in nature. Use a closed cell polyurethane foam to fill the gaps. It won't be as dense as the foam that was there but it will resist water absorption. Capping off the opening with marine grade plywood may also add some strength. Remove some of the foam around the edge of the deck so you can tuck fiberglass under what's left of the existing deck when you encapsulate the existing foam. By glassing above and below the existing deck, you create a plug that is larger than the opening, which prevents the patch from popping off. Finally, the source of water intrusion is not likely to be from above deck. It is probably from a crack in the outer hull, or a failed drain tube. If you don't stop the water at its source, you're likely to have the same problem again.
ShadowF4	posted 07-12-2003 06:43 PM ET (US) I look everywhere and did not find anything on prefabricated stringers i called three different west marine stores none of them carried it or told me where i could get some. Is there anything else i can do. also after i add the foam do i just fiberglass the floor on top or is there any steps i need to take before this thanks. chris
DIVE 1	posted 07-13-2003 12:13 AM ET (US) ShadowF4, I have never used or seen premade stringers. We use kiln dried lumber and cut our own. To answer a lot of your questions, go to the search funtion and type in "biaxial". There are a few articles about installing stringers and refoaming. Then come back and post any unanswered questions. Jim
ShadowF4	posted 07-15-2003 12:41 AM ET (US) So i should put two layers of biaxial cloth with polyester resin straight to the inner outer hull first. Then i should put in 5 stringers secured down using the biaxial cloth and polyester resin running from the front the the back. what type of wood should i use and how tall or thick should it be. (this is where i get confused)Then do i add the 3/8 plywood on top of the stringers or not? How do i make a new deck with the same shape as the original one? Is the best way to add the new foam is to tilt the boat on the transom and to dril 2" holes a couple feet apart to the top and add foam from the stern to the bow untill each hole is full. then to fiberglass over the holes. is this right if iam missing something please tell me. thanks
ShadowF4	posted 07-16-2003 12:01 PM ET (US) I mean vinyl ester resin instead of Polyester resin.
DIVE 1	posted 07-16-2003 08:20 PM ET (US) ShadowF4, You have a good path set for your project. I use any kiln dried 2x2, 2x4, etc, for making stringers. You need to make a cardboard template for each stringer prior to purchasing the lumber. The amount of curvature in the hull and deck height dictates the width of the lumber. You may need a 2x12 to get all of the curvature out of one board. We do not bend or bow the wood for the stringers, each one is cut to shape from a single board. The deck shape is dictated by the stringer shape. The 3/8" plywood is easy to bend to the stringer contours. Foaming is last and yes, you have the concept correct. Jim