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Author Topic:   Caulking tips for floor of Outrage 22
whalerdude posted 06-30-2003 04:57 PM ET (US)   Profile for whalerdude   Send Email to whalerdude  
I need some tips on caulking the floor joints on my Outrage such as;
What caulk to use?
Is a power caulk gun helpful?
Do I need to pull the panels up to clean underneath first?

Right now the caulk is coming off and looks bad.


Al_A_Buy posted 06-30-2003 05:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for Al_A_Buy  Send Email to Al_A_Buy     
Whalerdude - You should not have to pull the deck plates up, just spend the time to remove all of the existing caulking. I just finished doing this on my 1974 Outrage.

My recommendation would be to use the highest silicone content material you can find. I used the best grade GE door and window silicone available at your local home center (Lowes). I'm not sure how the marine grade stuff compares, as I didn't think about using the 3M stuff until the job was done.

As far as a power gun, if you have one, use it, otherwise a standard caulk gun should work fine.


peetmin posted 06-30-2003 05:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for peetmin  Send Email to peetmin     
There are a number of silicones offered by Starbrite...
Whaler part numbers are...
352443 for Almond.
751289 Beige.
1081694 Desert Beige.
I believe this is the product that the factory used. And I believe you can mail order it from Sue at Twin Rivers Marine.
I learned everything I know about this from my friend Kingfish.
whalerdude posted 06-30-2003 06:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalerdude  Send Email to whalerdude     
Thanks guys!! That helps me a lot.


whaler131 posted 06-30-2003 08:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for whaler131  Send Email to whaler131     
Thanks from me to. I have been getting a litle water on the gas tank . I found it when I took of the cover plate just to see what was under there. tank is still in good shape. if that does not work any other ideas? The floor is in great shape thanks
acseatsri posted 06-30-2003 08:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for acseatsri  Send Email to acseatsri     
I wouldn't worry about the water under there. Caulking won't stop it- it comes from the sump and is perfectly normal.
whaler131 posted 06-30-2003 08:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for whaler131  Send Email to whaler131     
Thanks for the info.
kingfish posted 07-01-2003 08:59 AM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     

Thanks for the recognition, my friend, but truth be told, everything I know about this topic I learned here also.

This site is an unbelievable asset, eh?


whalerdude posted 07-02-2003 06:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalerdude  Send Email to whalerdude     
Love this site!
When I post a new thread (question) I usually get help within the hour!!


logjamslam posted 07-08-2003 06:31 AM ET (US)     Profile for logjamslam  Send Email to logjamslam     
I just got through replacing the original aluminum tank in a 1987 22' whaler. The tank was badly pitted and contained water in the bottom third of the compartment; foam surrounding the tank smelled of gas. When I priced a new tank I asked for suggestions for keeping a tank from pitting. The manufacturer stated that the life expectancy of a tank was 15 to 20 years sometimes longer and gave no suggestions for corrosion prevention. The thickness of the metal was only .125 or 1/8 inch to start with.
My guess is that there are a number of older whalers running around with questionable tanks.

When I had everything torn appart I put in an aircraft float pump out fitting in the inspection cover so that I can pump the water out of the bottom of the compartment with a hand pump. I also put new connections on the bonding wires.

kingfish posted 07-08-2003 08:53 AM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     

Would you describe the "airplane float pump out fitting" in more detail, or reply with a url where I could look at a photo or sketch of one?



logjamslam posted 07-08-2003 03:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for logjamslam  Send Email to logjamslam     
kingfish- in the next couple of days I'll try to borrow a digital camera and photo the contraption.
logjamslam posted 07-27-2003 06:40 AM ET (US)     Profile for logjamslam  Send Email to logjamslam     
Sorry its been so long and I haven't got you a picture yet. My wife is out of town with the digital camera and I haven't found one to borrow yet.

An aircraft pumpout fitting is a small tapered cup about 1 3/4" at its widest inside diameter (at the top). The cup tapers slightly at the bottom approx 2 inches deep. A 5/8 male hose fitting protrudes out of the bottom of the cup. A hole is cut in the top of the aluminum floats and the cup is rivited in place under the hole. A 5/8 plastic tube is then run to the low point in the float compartment. A plug covers the pumpout when not being used. To use a hand pump (Same as most tubular boat hand pumps except it has a small rubber extention which fits the cup of pumpout) is jammed into the pumpout and the hand pump stroked as normal. Steady solid stream comes out of pump as long as water present. Eventually it starts sucking air and water turns to droplets, mist, and then just air. It is possible to remove most all of the water except for risidual drops which run back down the tube when pumping ceases.

In order to get this to work for the fuel compartment on a 22' whaler I had to modify the pumpout fitting so that it would fit in the limited space available under the deck. I moved the 5/8 hose fitting from the bottom to the side of the cup (at the bottom). I cut off the hose fitting on the bottom of the cup and JBwelded the hole to plug it. I drilled a new hole
on the side and jbwelded a new plastic 5/8" fitting so that the hose now attaches to the side instead of the bottom. I cut a hole in the aft inspection hole lid and jb welded the cup under the hole to attach it.

To install it I ran 5/8 tubing from the low point up the aft bulkhead of the compartment to even with the top of the fuel tank. I secured it to the fiberglass in 4 or 5 places with 5200 to make sure the intake stays where I want it. I angled the bottom of the tube slightly to make sure that suction doesn't pull the tube down and constrict flow when in use. I put in a 90 degree plastic fitting and then connected another 5/8" hose on top of the fuel tank from the 90 to the inspection lid pumpout fitting. I left extra hose so that I can pull the lid out with some of the hose and disconect the hose from the fitting If I wish to completely remove the lid.

I tested the unit and it removes all but a few drips in the bottom. The big question is how will the JB weld modifications hold up. They all seem secure and solid. It is important to remember to place a plug in the pumpout fitting cup or you could eventually fill the compartment with water.
Also use a stiff enough 5/8 tubing that it does not collapse and constrict the flow.

The pumpout fitting cost 15 bucks, the tubing 10, and about 50 bucks worth of JB Weld(just kidding).
Sorry about all the words -I was hoping to do it with pictures.
I'll e-mail pictures when the camera comes back if you are still interested.


DaveH posted 07-28-2003 09:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for DaveH  Send Email to DaveH     

One tip I read about is to install the new caulk with some heavy test fishing line so the next deck removal will be easier. Start in the corner and lay the fishing line all around the gap so when the caulking is placed down, the line is fully covered. When you need to remove the old caulk again, pull up the corner and the fishing line will help cut right through.

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