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Author Topic:   rub rail rivets
83bws posted 07-23-2003 06:47 PM ET (US)   Profile for 83bws   Send Email to 83bws  
what is the best way to remove the rivets from my rub rail?
acseatsri posted 07-23-2003 08:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for acseatsri  Send Email to acseatsri     
Just drill off the heads with a 3/16 drill.
83bws posted 07-24-2003 12:35 AM ET (US)     Profile for 83bws  Send Email to 83bws     
what do i do after i drill the heads off. The problem is that some of them have been ripped out and are bent. and i cant pulle them out what do i do
Rob Cote posted 07-24-2003 06:30 AM ET (US)     Profile for Rob Cote  Send Email to Rob Cote     
83bws, I replaced the Rub Rail on my Montauk this winter. Using advice and instructions that I got by using the search feature on this fourm, the job was pretty straight forward.

After drilling off the rivet heads, just poke the reamining peice back into the gunnel.

I then filled the holes with West's epoxy, but others have used MarineTex.

Rob Cote posted 07-24-2003 06:31 AM ET (US)     Profile for Rob Cote  Send Email to Rob Cote     
make that,

...poke the "remaining" piece ....

Capt_Tidy posted 07-24-2003 05:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for Capt_Tidy  Send Email to Capt_Tidy     
Just finished installing a heavy duty black commercial monster rub rail on my 15 - very easy job (Kit # 500-05017 at around $158 plus shipping from Sue at Twin City Marine).

It took me about 25 minutes to install complete using self tapping screws... needed my wife for two holds - did it in full sun after the rail baked for a couple of hours...

The jobs looks very professional and clean - the boat looks better and actually looks bigger / meaner... hopefully will scare away some whimpy electric boats. The end caps look awesome... very very clean look.

The only negative - I switched out using the BW sealer (one week to cure) with 3M-5200 so I could wash the boat immediately. I actually sealed all old holes and sft spots (after grinding away some areas) with Marine Tex and then screwed into the old holes for the best hold - with Marine Tex the old holes are now the thickess part of the hull along the rail... I put extra effort into remming out the old holes to make lots of room for a good bond. Plus the heavy duty rail is slightly bigger than the original rail and it completely covers my sloppy fill job.

Thanks Big Shot - without your earlier post/ comment on installing an original style rail (5 hour installation with three guys) I likely would not have returned the original style rub rail and would be still working on the stupid thing... and likely divorced.

Whoever offered the advice to work over grass - thank you. The rail would be marked up working on a hard surface like my garage.

cheers
Ian

bluewater posted 07-24-2003 05:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for bluewater  Send Email to bluewater     
I visited the local BW dealer today and discovered that the only rub rail I could get is one with a gray receiver track and black insert. I am looking to match the receiver track that is my boat now, which is white with a black insert.

Does anyone know who manufactures the rub rails for whaler?

Where else can I get a rub rail to match my '78 Montauk (original rail, i think)?

Capt Tidy- what size screws did you use?

Thanks in advance.
bluewater

Capt_Tidy posted 07-25-2003 02:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for Capt_Tidy  Send Email to Capt_Tidy     
The screws came with the kit - approx 1.5 inches # 10's self taping - no pre drilling.

Call Sue at Twin City Marine.. her number is in the reference/rub rail page - evry nice to deal. The kit from her was almost $100 cheaper than here in CA.

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