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Author Topic:   86 18OR Repair Questions (Long)
rayl posted 07-25-2003 12:12 PM ET (US)   Profile for rayl  
I am in process of restoring an 86 18OR. I have the console removed and floor up(to replace rotten wood). I am going to replace original multifunction instruments from Yamaha with Teleflex guages(speed, tach, volt, water start). I will replace all hoses( fill, fuel, water seperator, etc.). I will be reusing the original 704 controller and ignition switch(both cables appear to be in good shape). FYI, the motor is an 89 Yamaha 130.

Now that I have laid some of the background.My questions are as follows:

- I ordered a feul level guage with sender(Teleflex). Would the send be installed in place of the current sight guage on tank? It's the only place that I can see it would go.Or would I be just as well off by using the sight guage instead of a fuel leve guage? Probably just personal preference.

- I am new to this so this question may be a "non-intelligent" one. Do I need a new wiring harness from Yamaha to complete the install(as described above)? I'm thinking that I don't, but since I am new I maybe overlooking something. The whole idea of a wiring harness is odd to me. Isn't it just a group of wires required to connect electronics to a motor? Some wires are needed and others are not, depending on what instruments are added?

- With the floor off, there is a hole leading into the forward hull(resides in the cable tunnel) with a string threaded through it. I think that it is there to facilitate the fishing of wiring into that path, but there is no wiring there. What is it for? The bow lights? Any ideas? I hope this is what it is for as I would like to redo the bowlight wiring without removing the rub-rail(my understanding is the factory wiring is under there).

- Looking for recommendations on mounting points for both the water seperator and batter switch. The seperator was on the area that curves into transom in rear(I think this was common). But, there is no wood that I have seen in the diagrams in that area. How are these items best mounted with no wood backing?

Sorry for the lengthy post, but any help is appreciated. I have been reading and searching this site for quite a while now. There is a wealth of knowledge here and I am sure that these questions have been answered a hundred times or more.


JohnNorthEast posted 07-25-2003 01:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for JohnNorthEast  Send Email to JohnNorthEast     
As long as you are going this far why not replace the tank as well. I re did the deck and also replaced the 63 gallon tank on the same boat. Along with new wiring and new hoses I feel a lot more secure now that this work is done. By the way, I had no idea what the string was for,- I'm guessing it is not related to the bow lights
george nagy posted 07-25-2003 02:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for george nagy  Send Email to george nagy     
I'm guessing that the wirechase and string are there to run wires for abilge pump to drain the anchor locker.
rayl posted 07-25-2003 03:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for rayl    
Well, I was going to replace tank, but after inspection it looked sound. The boat was "kept" in saltwater at all times. Plus, the funds weren't there. :-) I'll probably regret my decision later...


Gep posted 07-25-2003 05:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
I think the sending unit goes in the same place as the sight guage, but I'm not certain because the tank, engine and guages were replaced on mine in 1992.
My sending unit is under the deck access cover that is about a foot back and centered on the helm side of the console.
Did you pull your tank?

The hole where my string went through was foamed in on the tunnel/deck side I couldn't move the string.
On the inside of the bow locker there is a about a 1" diameter hole in the gelcoat and that was also foamed in. Ia ssumed the wires came out there.
Like George, I figured it was to run wires for a pump or aerator for a live or something.
It's definately not for the bow lights, those are under the insert on your rub rail.
It's not that hard to remove the rub rail insert, replace the wires, and then put the insert back on.

My Fuel/water seperator is mounted on the starbord aft wall on the curve. Sounds just like yours.

My battery selector switch was mounted just forward of that.
I moved my switch to the forward splashwell wall. Just to the right of the sump opening.

I just got done with my restoration on my 1981 18' Outrage,
good luck on yours!
I don't envy you having to replace the wood on your deck. I've read that's quite a chore. are you doing it yourself?


acseatsri posted 07-25-2003 07:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for acseatsri  Send Email to acseatsri     
I'd stay with the idiot-proof mechanical gauge- why mess with perfection? And I'd move the batteries into the console, mounting the battery switch on the front wall inside the console. You'll need about 17' cables to do this. Cut a hole big enough to accommodate 2 battery boxes in the floor of the console as far forward as possible and lash them directly to the floor of the boat- you lose very little storage inside the console this way.
acassidy posted 07-27-2003 09:07 AM ET (US)     Profile for acassidy  Send Email to acassidy     
While you have the console off you could rewire the boat with new wiring if you want. I did this to my Montauk and it really gives me a piece of mind (Mainly with fires on board which are very bad.) The new gauges should wire in to the old gauge wiring(or new wires if you rewire). The only real wiring harness in a boat is the one that goes to the motor and hooks up under the cowling. Any other wiring harness in the boat can be left alone or replaced if worn with a wiring system of our own.
From your message it sounds like you are adding a new motor to your boat. If you are hooking up a new or used motor for the first time to your boat and is a different brand, then you must have the manufacture’s remote (ignition) harness and wire that plugs in under the cowling. You can sometimes get them very cheap on ebay. This harness hooks on one end to an ignition switch in the console and the other end to the motor via a plug. Now with a manual and your old ignition switch you might be able to hook up the new harness to your old ignition switch. I assume your old controls are universal should work. I hope this is not too confusing. And wish you good luck on your project.
rayl posted 07-27-2003 01:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for rayl    
Actually, I am just rewiring the boat, not repowering. Thanks...

I did want to follow-up on the mounting of your battery selector switch. How did you mount it on the splashwell? Did you mount it upside down(the cables exit on bottom of my perko), or did you simply mount it right side up and then curve cables around and back(assuming your batteries are located in rear of boat.


dreid posted 07-27-2003 02:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for dreid  Send Email to dreid     
If I understand the question, anything mounted on the splash well divider will inevitably and unnecessarily get in the way. A two- or three-battery separator switch fits nicely under the starboard gunnel, just aft of the haus-pipe and cleat.
rayl posted 07-27-2003 02:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for rayl    

That's where the original(previous owner I presume) was located. My wood locator drawings show no wood in that location(under gunwales aft of cleat). What is best way to secure? Just standard screws(about 1 1/2") and some 5200? Also, I would assume the same for new water seperator manifold.


dreid posted 07-27-2003 05:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for dreid  Send Email to dreid     
With no weight to bear, some stainless sheet metal screws sealed with 3M 4200 (just in case you ever want to remove them; 5200 is essentially a permanent mount) will do the trick for both battery switch and fuel/water separator. I believe the entire transom has imbedded plywood, so a separator mounted there will be into wood. More reason to seal the holes well.
Gep posted 07-27-2003 11:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
Thats where my battery selector switch was located also, just aft of the cleat.
The problem I had was that the gas line going into my fuel/water seperator had to drape over it and bend back down to get on the fitting. It was also hard to get at because of the wiring from the tunnel.
When I did my restoration I actually put it back in the same place, then I came across some pictures I had of a Montauk or Outrage (I think they were of Whalersman's)and his battery selector was mounted on the forward splashwell, so I moved mine and haven't had any problems.
I trailer my boat so it's easy for me to reach it when I'm standing behind the boat. Otherwise I would have probably mounted mine on the console.

No, I mounted it right side up.
I actually looked at it today and realized I mounted it just up from the sump opening not to the right.
I just bent the wires up.

I'll shoot you a picture tomorrow.

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