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Author Topic:   stripped out screw repair advise
Cpt Quint posted 07-30-2003 12:24 PM ET (US)   Profile for Cpt Quint   Send Email to Cpt Quint  
bow rail. two screws were incorrectly repaired with rubber dowels prior to ownership. Holes are size of my thumb. I back filled with foam then dug out enough to rebuild the glass. I was going to sink nylon drwall mounts and bed them for a permanent hold. Would you use 5200 or marine tex for this. If i can get a positve hold then you screw right into the top of the nylon fitting, bed that, and it should hold for good.
triblet posted 07-30-2003 01:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
What you want to do is to build a plug of epoxy behind the
glass, then set the screws in that. The West System book
discusses this.

This has been discussed here at length several times. Do
a search on "nail" (you use a bent nail in a drill to clean
out the foam behind the glass) or "puck" (you are forming a
"hockey puck" of sorts).


Chuck

Cpt Quint posted 07-30-2003 02:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for Cpt Quint  Send Email to Cpt Quint     
I understand this method/whenever I have used the west system I am cautious about epoxy in an enclosed pocket anymore than 1/2 inch thick. it will generate extreme heat.The "puck" void I have. Was just looking for material that wouldnt heat up under the surface. I have some slow drying hardner so I wonder if that would stay cool enough.
dfmcintyre posted 07-30-2003 03:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for dfmcintyre  Send Email to dfmcintyre     
Quint -

The West 206 "Slow Hardener" or the 209 "Extra Slow Hardener" would work. Best way to try either is mix up a small test batch and pour it into a small container about the size of the void you need to fill. Check it for any signs of overtemp. The info at the West site (www.westepoxy.com) mentions a _very_ long setup time for the 209.

The size and shape of the void (or mixing container for that matter) can and does affect how fast the mix begins to setup and exotherm.

Don

lhg posted 07-30-2003 06:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
There should be a plywood pad where these bow rail screws are stripped out. Fill entire enlarged hole (at least 1/2" diameter) with white Marine-tex putty, sand and buff and re-drill, then use self-tapping screws. The Marine-tex is desireable because it will bond to the plywood backing under the glass, besides the glass itself. This will be a permanent repair, and is much stronger than then Whaler's original detail using plywood under the glass.
tully_mars posted 07-30-2003 11:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for tully_mars  Send Email to tully_mars     
I just did the Marine-tex repair on my Montauk bow rail this year and it seems to be holding up quite well.

Tully Mars

lhg posted 07-31-2003 03:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Two years ago I had to remover the entire one piece, welded bow rail on my 25 Outrage. Per instructions from a respected Whaler dealer, I did this white Marine-tex repair and the bow rail is solid as a rock ever since! Marine tex also prevents water from getting into the plywood pads and rotting them out underneath the glass. Marine-tex is an epoxy, but much easier to work with than West's. It is water soluable. The white color does not show under the fittings.
Cpt Quint posted 07-31-2003 03:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for Cpt Quint  Send Email to Cpt Quint     
Thanks for responses. My embedded wood was gone. I chose the slow hardner because although I think MarTex is great stuff, without a solid base to back it onto I just beleive nothing has the bonding qualities of WestSyt. Top of my repair leveled even with the deck and will be hidden by the mounting bracket.
Im pleased with the bored out style "puck" repair and am certain that it will hold period...I bet the rail bends before the West cracks. thanks for all advise.

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