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Author Topic:   Rub rail replacement instructions and Do's and Don'ts
whaler1968 posted 08-19-2003 03:14 PM ET (US)   Profile for whaler1968   Send Email to whaler1968  
I know this is an old topic but I need help. I have received from Whaler the new rub rail replacemnt. In the box is three different pieces of rub rail and one bag of pop rivets with no instructions. Also I do not see any type of end caps. I am trying to install this on my 1968 13' Whaler by myself as the railing is coiling around me.

I have several questions:

1. What are the steps to install this beast?
2. Are the pop rivets the right thing to use?
3. What about the ends?
4. What do you use around the transom area?
5. Does anyone have any instructions or pictures?
6. Do I put this beast back in the box and get a different after the market rub rail?
7. What will old this securely in place? Pop rivets ok?

The old Whaler is looking good and we are getting closer to completion each year? The bottom has been completely done and is now ready for the interior and rub rail before repowering.

Thanks, Allen

Bigshot posted 08-19-2003 03:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
Not a one man job.....period. What I did was I had one person holding the rubrail as straight as possible near the bow. Another holding it flush against the hull, and me drilling and pop-riveting it on about every 8" and closer on the bow and right at the stern. The white rubber piece goes on first to cover the seam, then the hard white piece(track) goes over it along the edge and you rivet that on which holds everything in place. Once finshed the black piece is just stuffed inside the track using a wide screwdriver or gasket scraper. The bowlight wiring can go behind the black insert. There are no transom end-caps. You make the white piece as flush as possible wth the end of the boat and then with a razor knife cut the track part off the black insert about 2 inches so it folds around the transom. Then drill the transom, insert the anchor and screw tight the last 2" of black insert.
Gep posted 08-19-2003 06:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
When I redid my rubrail, I did it by myself but it was a chore.
I used about 10 clamps to hold the hard receiver track, with angled top piece, in place while I screwed the track on every 3 or 4 inches.
I used my palm and a rubber mallet to get the rubber insert into the receiver track.
Make sure you leave about 2 inches or so at the starting end of the rubber insert so you can wrap it around the back side.
Like Bigshot said, I just used a razor knife and cut the track part off of the back of the insert part.

JimH wrote a great article on rub rail replacement.
If you go to this link it will help.

Or you can go this link and see some pictures of my rub rail replacement.

Hope this helps.


whaler1968 posted 08-19-2003 09:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for whaler1968  Send Email to whaler1968     
Thank you for the quick responses and additional information. I will be using all the information I can get before attempting this on my own.

Tell me more about the middle insert piece.Do you completely insert it in the railing than pull from both ends to tighten? What about trimming the ends for the transom what is the total length I should leave before cutting? I noticed it looked like the ends were also rounded. What size screws did you use on the transom and what size and type of screws used on the railing?

The rub rail I received is all black. I noticed on the other information they also had a different part number listed and stated a new improved railing. Whats up with that part? Should I use what I got or go for the other one?

Just trying to get the old Whaler back into the water here in Texas. This poor old boat has been through fires and motors knocked off by stumps and still is tough as nails.

It might only look like a Whaler from the outside but even with the interior destroyed and rebuilt again it as a heart of a Outrage.


acseatsri posted 08-19-2003 09:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for acseatsri  Send Email to acseatsri     
A heat gun will help immensely when wrapping it around the corners on the bow. If you have 4 clamps or so it's a one-man job. Make sure you push hard on the rivet gun when you are pulling them up. They usually won't pull the track up tight to the hull the way a screw will.
First Thought posted 08-20-2003 09:22 AM ET (US)     Profile for First Thought  Send Email to First Thought     
It's not a bad job, I've replaced two in the last year, my own and one for a friend. Two people can do the job pretty easily, one holding things straight and tight and one drilling and riveting. The one thing that can really help is to take everything out of the packs, and lay it out in the sun for a couple of hours, get it nice and warm and straighten it out as it gets more flexable.
Gep posted 08-20-2003 11:03 AM ET (US)     Profile for Gep  Send Email to Gep     
I rounded the ends of my insert when I wrapped it around the stern.
I thought it looked better. Purely cosmetic.

For the insert you want to start on one end at the stern and leave about 2-3inches and work your way up one side, around the bow, and down the other side.

I'm not advocating screwing the receiver track on, it's just what I did for mine.
My '59 didn't have as much meat on the edge of the lip as some newer Whalers and I opted to screw it on as opposed to using the rivets that came with the rub rail. It held pretty good.
I used something like 2-1/2" or 3" stainless steel flathead screws.

As far as the different part numbers, I don't know. I would think that if you have the three piece rub rail that is the newer style.
Maybe someone else will weigh in here for you.


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