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Author Topic:   Bow light wiring on 13'

whaler1968 posted 08-21-2003 10:23 AM ET (US)
I need some ideas and information on how to run the bow light wire on my 1968 Whaler. I have also read in this forum about running the wire in the rub rail. Please elaborate on how you do that because I do not want to have any loose wire anywere. Where do enter the rub rail and exit the rub rail? Does anyone have any pictures?
Allen
Drisney posted 08-21-2003 01:02 PM ET (US)
Allen, If you run the search on this site I think you will find a lot of info, Having said that; the wires run down the right side of the hull(facing the bow) and exit the hull in the sten. They come out approx 1 foot forward of the transom and in line with the rubrail. Usually there is a cover on the exit point. Dave
DaveNJ posted 08-22-2003 07:29 AM ET (US)
I assume you have the 3 piece rubrail kit ?
I had to do it this way because my Whaler inside hull wiring was not usable anymore.
If you have the 3 piece rub rail, you should have already installed the "L" trim piece, then the receiver track. Now you can 1/4" drill through the bow section of the receiver track to your light. Fish your wires through for your bow light. Next run it down the middle of your receiver track and then drill another 3/8" hole, angled down as much as you can for the console wires. I angled down so it would be hardly visible when the wires enters the inside hull. Then fish second set of wires from the console out of the 3/8" hole and back into the receiver track toward the stern for another entrance into the hull for stern light. Your battery wires are run inside the boat and get cable tied with your motor controls cable bundle.
Check everything out to make sure it is working, then install your rub rail into the receiver track. There is a channel inside the rub rail for the wires to fit in, but make sure the wires are not pinched anywhere.
For exact wiring, search the repair forum for the wiring to battery, stern light and console 3 pole switch. If you can't find it, email me. I can send you a graphic wiring diagram that I made up.
Hope this is clear. If not, keep posting.
- Dave
Chesapeake posted 08-22-2003 04:22 PM ET (US)
To add to Dave's post...
1) that is exactly what I did on a 1969 16' hull. Yours should be no different. You must install the 3-piece rubrail kit.
2) when you are done as Dave described, two things clean up the installation. I) Make certain you use a countersink bit to slightly enlarge the entry and exit holes you drill. This will prevent stress cracks from forming. II) fill the hole around the wires with a little bit of silicon caulk to prevent water infiltration - I think 3M # 105 might be the right stuff. III) get a small stainless steel clamshell and cover the hole on your gunnels where the wires exit. That cleans up the install. IV) Wrap the wires coming out of the hole and to your battery in small guage wire wrap. This also makes it look like a factory install. You can buy this stuff at virtually any decent auto parts store.
I will try to send you a picture of the finished application via e-mail.
BillB posted 08-25-2003 10:10 AM ET (US)
whaler1968,
I have emailed you a scan of Whaler's approach to the wiring problem.
Bill
capngeo posted 09-04-2003 08:49 PM ET (US)
whaler's way? is there another way? i'd sure like NOT to use the rubrail method.. If they have a better way, I'd love to know about it
jimh posted 09-04-2003 09:04 PM ET (US)
This is a frequently asked question. Everything I know about this topic is concisely presented in the FAQ section.
Please read:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q4
BillB posted 09-04-2003 09:50 PM ET (US)
Sorry capngeo, Jim's article in the reference section accurately describes "Whaler's way". I will forward copies of the scan to you both.
Bill

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Author	Topic: Bow light wiring on 13'
whaler1968	posted 08-21-2003 10:23 AM ET (US) I need some ideas and information on how to run the bow light wire on my 1968 Whaler. I have also read in this forum about running the wire in the rub rail. Please elaborate on how you do that because I do not want to have any loose wire anywere. Where do enter the rub rail and exit the rub rail? Does anyone have any pictures? Allen
Drisney	posted 08-21-2003 01:02 PM ET (US) Allen, If you run the search on this site I think you will find a lot of info, Having said that; the wires run down the right side of the hull(facing the bow) and exit the hull in the sten. They come out approx 1 foot forward of the transom and in line with the rubrail. Usually there is a cover on the exit point. Dave
DaveNJ	posted 08-22-2003 07:29 AM ET (US) I assume you have the 3 piece rubrail kit ? I had to do it this way because my Whaler inside hull wiring was not usable anymore. If you have the 3 piece rub rail, you should have already installed the "L" trim piece, then the receiver track. Now you can 1/4" drill through the bow section of the receiver track to your light. Fish your wires through for your bow light. Next run it down the middle of your receiver track and then drill another 3/8" hole, angled down as much as you can for the console wires. I angled down so it would be hardly visible when the wires enters the inside hull. Then fish second set of wires from the console out of the 3/8" hole and back into the receiver track toward the stern for another entrance into the hull for stern light. Your battery wires are run inside the boat and get cable tied with your motor controls cable bundle. Check everything out to make sure it is working, then install your rub rail into the receiver track. There is a channel inside the rub rail for the wires to fit in, but make sure the wires are not pinched anywhere. For exact wiring, search the repair forum for the wiring to battery, stern light and console 3 pole switch. If you can't find it, email me. I can send you a graphic wiring diagram that I made up. Hope this is clear. If not, keep posting. - Dave
Chesapeake	posted 08-22-2003 04:22 PM ET (US) To add to Dave's post... 1) that is exactly what I did on a 1969 16' hull. Yours should be no different. You must install the 3-piece rubrail kit. 2) when you are done as Dave described, two things clean up the installation. I) Make certain you use a countersink bit to slightly enlarge the entry and exit holes you drill. This will prevent stress cracks from forming. II) fill the hole around the wires with a little bit of silicon caulk to prevent water infiltration - I think 3M # 105 might be the right stuff. III) get a small stainless steel clamshell and cover the hole on your gunnels where the wires exit. That cleans up the install. IV) Wrap the wires coming out of the hole and to your battery in small guage wire wrap. This also makes it look like a factory install. You can buy this stuff at virtually any decent auto parts store. I will try to send you a picture of the finished application via e-mail.
BillB	posted 08-25-2003 10:10 AM ET (US) whaler1968, I have emailed you a scan of Whaler's approach to the wiring problem. Bill
capngeo	posted 09-04-2003 08:49 PM ET (US) whaler's way? is there another way? i'd sure like NOT to use the rubrail method.. If they have a better way, I'd love to know about it
jimh	posted 09-04-2003 09:04 PM ET (US) This is a frequently asked question. Everything I know about this topic is concisely presented in the FAQ section. Please read: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q4
BillB	posted 09-04-2003 09:50 PM ET (US) Sorry capngeo, Jim's article in the reference section accurately describes "Whaler's way". I will forward copies of the scan to you both. Bill