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Author Topic:   Rub Rail forming at Bow
TomNMiami posted 08-26-2003 10:15 PM ET (US)   Profile for TomNMiami   Send Email to TomNMiami  
I need some advice in a hurry. I am installing commercial duty reb rail this weekend, and need to know if it's possible to form the rail around the bow, or if it HAS to be mitred. I have looked at 5 boats (18s and 22s) with this heavy duty rub rail, and all had cut the rail at the bow and mitred it.

I was hoping to keep from doing this. I have seen anchor rode work it's way into the groove, and I would like to prevent this.

Any help would be appreciated.


doobee posted 08-26-2003 10:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for doobee  Send Email to doobee     
Warming up the rub rail will make it more pliable and easier to install. I'm not sure if that will save you from mitering, though.
Royce posted 08-27-2003 12:45 AM ET (US)     Profile for Royce  Send Email to Royce     
What is the size of boat you are installing the rub rail on? I tried to buy a 60 ft. lenght from Barbour Plastics so I could install it without the miter at the bow- they had precut all of their rail material and I had to buy 2 31 footers. I was installing the heavyduty rubrail today on my 25' Outrage Cuddy. Start at one of the rear miters and work forward. On mine the rear miter is not the same cut on both sides--the short piece is a compound cut at 45 degrees with a bevel of 6 degrees. You can then cut the long piece the same but in order for it to fit properly you have to remove a little of the lowerside of the miter with a sander(I used a 6x26 stationary sander). I used 1 1/2" stainless screws every 3 inches with 5200 top and bottom, to fasten it on(as per the Outboard Motor Shop). If you have to miter at the bow, precut two small (8 in.) pieces of rub rail and adjust your cut angle until you get a tight miter on these test pieces. Mark top and bottom on the bow where the actual miter comes together (this mark will be very useful when you are wrestling the big snake for the actual bow cut) The bow miter on my 25' is 14 degrees off of 90. If you bought a long piece of rubrail I would not hesitate to wrap the bow without a miter. Leave the rubrail in the sun on a blace surface(like a truck bed) so it becomes flexible. A buddy to help you manage the snake is a must. Good luck!
TomNMiami posted 08-29-2003 07:25 AM ET (US)     Profile for TomNMiami  Send Email to TomNMiami     

Thanks for te detailed reply. The rail is for a 19' Outrage. Your raised a interesting point, the rub rail may be supplied in 2 sections forcing a mitre at the bow. I am going to go digging through the BIG box later today.

One more question: how did you determine the proper compound angle? Trial and error or some other method.


Royce posted 09-01-2003 12:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for Royce  Send Email to Royce     
Trial and error. Actually 9 degrees with a 45 degree miter angle worked better than 6 on the two stearn miters. Good luck!
waayne posted 10-27-2003 05:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for waayne  Send Email to waayne     
Yes, I had to mitre mine, and then after about a year it shrank so that I now have a 3-inch gap in the bow section.
I'm getting ready to install a material called Gunnel Guard, a rubrail that the commercial guys put on the whalers for heavy duty work environments. It's much superior, and about the same cost.

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