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Author Topic:   Securing Bow Door

mrdrago posted 09-05-2003 08:16 AM ET (US)
My 1986 Montauk has a teak door on the bow compartment. In heavy seas it bounces because there is nothing securing it to the boat. Any suggestions or ideas for installing some type of fastner or hold down for it?
As a follow-up, my door also has a hole where the previous owner had a pole to support a chair. Does anyone know of stainless hardware that could be installed to close the hole? Or something to make it look a little nicer?
Thanks,
Mark
jameso posted 09-05-2003 08:36 AM ET (US)
Later model 15's used a bungee arangement to hold the anchor locker hatch in place. They also hinged the forward edge. The hole; go a local metal recycling yard and scrounge a small piece of stainless, file edges and polish if you want then attach with a couple of small stainless screws.
my 02 to you. Jim
ratherwhalering posted 09-05-2003 02:34 PM ET (US)
I toyed with this idea for quite some time, and came up with the following solution.

I took 18" of a bungee cord, and secured the ends to make a continuous loop. Using stainless washers (and rubber washers to protect the varnish on the hatch) and knots in the bungee loop, I created a loop through the finger hole. The bungee loop comes out of the finger hole, and is secured to the front of the anchor locker wall. To secure it there, I already has a pedestal mount, so no other hardware was necessary.
If I didn't have the pedestal mount, I would consider securing an appropriate length of bungee loop to the underside of the hatch, then mounting a retaining clip on the interior of the anchor locker wall, with just a reciever clip, like the one pictured here http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=30643 . You could use the finger hole to open the hatch enough to clip and unclip the bungee loop to the catch. I have not tested this, but it sounds like it would work. In addition, the hardware would be out of site, and not in the way of shins or ankles.
Cicada posted 09-06-2003 11:11 AM ET (US)
Flush mount pull rings are available that need to be inletted into hatch. Depends on how big the hole is and availability of a size that would cover the hole. Bungee cord on the inside sounds good. I thought about using some kind of magnetic or cabinet latching mechanism but decided against it. Wanted to keep the interior smooth and just too lazy.
Paul
Cicada posted 09-06-2003 11:14 AM ET (US)
Also toyed with the idea of having something in a bikini sit on it continuously. Nixed that idea. Would probably lead to some rather vocal objections and would be in the way when fishing.
bloller posted 09-06-2003 11:39 AM ET (US)
That's the best solution to that problem one could ever come up with.
jstachowiak posted 09-06-2003 04:30 PM ET (US)
Lowes has heavy duty velcro, which seems to be holding down mine just fine.

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Author	Topic: Securing Bow Door
mrdrago	posted 09-05-2003 08:16 AM ET (US) My 1986 Montauk has a teak door on the bow compartment. In heavy seas it bounces because there is nothing securing it to the boat. Any suggestions or ideas for installing some type of fastner or hold down for it? As a follow-up, my door also has a hole where the previous owner had a pole to support a chair. Does anyone know of stainless hardware that could be installed to close the hole? Or something to make it look a little nicer? Thanks, Mark
jameso	posted 09-05-2003 08:36 AM ET (US) Later model 15's used a bungee arangement to hold the anchor locker hatch in place. They also hinged the forward edge. The hole; go a local metal recycling yard and scrounge a small piece of stainless, file edges and polish if you want then attach with a couple of small stainless screws. my 02 to you. Jim
ratherwhalering	posted 09-05-2003 02:34 PM ET (US) I toyed with this idea for quite some time, and came up with the following solution. I took 18" of a bungee cord, and secured the ends to make a continuous loop. Using stainless washers (and rubber washers to protect the varnish on the hatch) and knots in the bungee loop, I created a loop through the finger hole. The bungee loop comes out of the finger hole, and is secured to the front of the anchor locker wall. To secure it there, I already has a pedestal mount, so no other hardware was necessary. If I didn't have the pedestal mount, I would consider securing an appropriate length of bungee loop to the underside of the hatch, then mounting a retaining clip on the interior of the anchor locker wall, with just a reciever clip, like the one pictured here http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=30643 . You could use the finger hole to open the hatch enough to clip and unclip the bungee loop to the catch. I have not tested this, but it sounds like it would work. In addition, the hardware would be out of site, and not in the way of shins or ankles.
Cicada	posted 09-06-2003 11:11 AM ET (US) Flush mount pull rings are available that need to be inletted into hatch. Depends on how big the hole is and availability of a size that would cover the hole. Bungee cord on the inside sounds good. I thought about using some kind of magnetic or cabinet latching mechanism but decided against it. Wanted to keep the interior smooth and just too lazy. Paul
Cicada	posted 09-06-2003 11:14 AM ET (US) Also toyed with the idea of having something in a bikini sit on it continuously. Nixed that idea. Would probably lead to some rather vocal objections and would be in the way when fishing.
bloller	posted 09-06-2003 11:39 AM ET (US) That's the best solution to that problem one could ever come up with.
jstachowiak	posted 09-06-2003 04:30 PM ET (US) Lowes has heavy duty velcro, which seems to be holding down mine just fine.