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Author Topic:   electrical connections

meb posted 09-19-2003 08:04 AM ET (US)
When adding console instruments to whalers, is the best splice connection (most lasting in salt water environment) solder with heat shrink tape? Any ideas?
tomroe posted 09-19-2003 08:11 AM ET (US)
My personal opinion, uninsulated butt connectors (crimp type) with dual wall heat shrink tubing. The dual wall heat shrink goes by different names, but they all have a sealer inside that makes the connection water tight when heated. Use a heat gun, not a torch.
BW23 posted 09-19-2003 09:26 AM ET (US)
Just like tomroe said....Ancor makes some of the best connectors and tinned copper wire.
http://www.ancorproducts.com/
Smallfrye posted 09-19-2003 10:37 AM ET (US)
If heat shrink is not easily available, use liquid PVC, avaialble at any Home Depot. This liquid flows easily into the ends of a butt splice and dries waterproof. This works well for insulating the rear of switches and other exposed electrical connections. I even use it to protect bus bars from corrosion.
good luck, Jim
jstachowiak posted 09-19-2003 11:28 AM ET (US)
Agree with everyone here, but I also spray everything with T-9 Boeing spray. Drys like a wax and protects against rust and corrosion.
jimh posted 09-19-2003 07:45 PM ET (US)
The ABYC standard on boat wiring requires that connections between wires not solely depend on solder.
Heat shrink tubing is probably preferable to heat shrink tape. It would have only two places (the ends) where water could enter.
alkar posted 09-21-2003 11:14 AM ET (US)
I use an anti-corrosive spray for electrical connections before joining the butt connectors. It makes the connectors easier to slip together, and it protects the contact surfaces completely. (Then I seal with heat shrink tubing).
Andy Holmes posted 09-26-2003 10:03 PM ET (US)
I suggest purchasing and installing a fuse block, and wiring the accessories through it. Continuing to splice item after item together under the console creates a real nightmare when trouble-shooting problems later. This is a real weakness in the factory configuration of the smaller whalers - not having a fuse block installed.

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Author	Topic: electrical connections
meb	posted 09-19-2003 08:04 AM ET (US) When adding console instruments to whalers, is the best splice connection (most lasting in salt water environment) solder with heat shrink tape? Any ideas?
tomroe	posted 09-19-2003 08:11 AM ET (US) My personal opinion, uninsulated butt connectors (crimp type) with dual wall heat shrink tubing. The dual wall heat shrink goes by different names, but they all have a sealer inside that makes the connection water tight when heated. Use a heat gun, not a torch.
BW23	posted 09-19-2003 09:26 AM ET (US) Just like tomroe said....Ancor makes some of the best connectors and tinned copper wire. http://www.ancorproducts.com/
Smallfrye	posted 09-19-2003 10:37 AM ET (US) If heat shrink is not easily available, use liquid PVC, avaialble at any Home Depot. This liquid flows easily into the ends of a butt splice and dries waterproof. This works well for insulating the rear of switches and other exposed electrical connections. I even use it to protect bus bars from corrosion. good luck, Jim
jstachowiak	posted 09-19-2003 11:28 AM ET (US) Agree with everyone here, but I also spray everything with T-9 Boeing spray. Drys like a wax and protects against rust and corrosion.
jimh	posted 09-19-2003 07:45 PM ET (US) The ABYC standard on boat wiring requires that connections between wires not solely depend on solder. Heat shrink tubing is probably preferable to heat shrink tape. It would have only two places (the ends) where water could enter.
alkar	posted 09-21-2003 11:14 AM ET (US) I use an anti-corrosive spray for electrical connections before joining the butt connectors. It makes the connectors easier to slip together, and it protects the contact surfaces completely. (Then I seal with heat shrink tubing).
Andy Holmes	posted 09-26-2003 10:03 PM ET (US) I suggest purchasing and installing a fuse block, and wiring the accessories through it. Continuing to splice item after item together under the console creates a real nightmare when trouble-shooting problems later. This is a real weakness in the factory configuration of the smaller whalers - not having a fuse block installed.