posted 10-21-2003 07:16 PM ET (US)        

I'm having some work performed on the engine next week and want to have some ballpark figures in my head so I don't just nod and say "okay" when they give me an estimate.

The specifics:
Location - Michigan
1994 70 HP Evinrude with power t/t
Labor is approximately 90 bucks and hour (is this reasonable?)

Here's what they're going to be doing:

Install the warning horn *this is missing* - the part must be ordered from bombardier and costs approximately $50.

Replace the skeg - I hit a gravel bar this summer and "removed" much of the skeg - they will be putting a new one on.

Reforming aluminum propeller *this will become my spare propeller. it is mostly just bent (all three blades), but there is some missing metal as well on one of the blades. The prop will be re-pitched to 19".

Chasing down a "sputter" at Idle that I belive is a carburator issue resulting from non-treated gasoline in the bowls - I am hoping this is the cause, because it may also be a timing/ignition issue...the sputter is only at idle - at high idle and "at speed" there is no problem.

Any assistance with one or all of these tasks would go a long way to help me sound much more knowledgeable and avoid being taken by this mechanic.

Thanks.

posted 10-21-2003 10:43 PM ET (US)            

At my shop, in the Seattle area, the labor rate is $99.00 per hour.

The following are just guesses without seeing the motor.

Install horn .5 hr + parts
Skeg repair $200.00 +/-
Prop repair $80.00 to $100.00
Sputter 1.0 hr diagnostics, carb rebuild prox 1.0 hr per carb + parts, electronics problem ? without seeing the motor.

Every shop is different so these figures are only based on the boat being brought to us for service.

posted 10-22-2003 08:04 AM ET (US)            

Thanks for the "real world" numbers...it is about what I was expecting...so I think I can keep them in the ballpark.

The prop cost 110 bucks brand new, so I think I may just replace it rather than have it repaired- perhaps someone will purchase it on e-bay for scrap value + shipping.

Larry -

I know, I know....I'm just worried about hitting something with a SS prop and really messing things up in the lower unit - I'd rather lose an aluminum propeller than have to go in there and repair internal parts...I do too much "gunkholing" and exploring to risk it. Perhaps I'll buy a stainless one for regular cruising and an aluminum for when I'm fishing and exploring.

LakeLanier - sorry to hear about your troubles.

Thanks to all - I'll report back on actual costs so this thread may be helpful to others.

Dave

posted 10-22-2003 10:02 AM ET (US)            

I had a torn off skeg replaced on a V-6 merc replaced last year for $150 - also including the replacement impeller, which I supplied.

Admittedly, my prop shop is not much more than a barn out in the country, but they do good work.

Most dealers/mechanics farm this welding work out. They adds 50% to these prices if you have him arrange the work. Same 50% markup on the skeg repair. If you go to the source, you will save that 50%.

posted 10-24-2003 01:19 PM ET (US)            

Your indicated use profile is rough on the lower end stuff and incompatible with the perfectionist advice. You'll be proud of your self when you're finished. Use the savings to take a kid fishing or a lady to dinner.

All the horn needs is two wires. One from B+ and the other from the engine which is the ground.

posted 10-31-2003 09:40 AM ET (US)            

The sputter at idle is due to the #3 cylinder being scored, requiring an overhaul. (estimated at between 1,700 and 2,000 dollars)

Compression was 135, 125, and 75.

Now that the momentary hysteria has passed, I am willing to entertain your suggestions, observations and consolations.

Now - this is as far as they looked..should I be concerned about additional damage to the engine beyond a scored cylinder that they might find after any repair is made?

(aside to Gep...perhaps I should take up sailing! Engines don't seem to like me right now...)

Thanks.

posted 10-31-2003 11:17 AM ET (US)            

Yeah, yeah yeah...I saw that Larry is considering replacing the twins with 90's from Eds (on another thread). I wonder....

John - definitely *After*...perhaps you should have a certified mechanic look at it again? :)

As several of you know, I've been considering selling the 15 anyway to upgrade to an 18 (which is really my ideal boat for the type of boating I seem to be doing a lot of lately). Lately, I had been entertaining the idea of keeping the 15 too, but now I may reconsider that position - The hull is in great condition and the trailer is too.

Any thoughts on whether there could be additional damage?

posted 10-31-2003 05:57 PM ET (US)         

I would say your engine, running properly, could be worth $2500, so you're right on the line, including the skeg repair, for getting it repaired. Obviously not an easy decision, but probably the thing to do if you're planning on keeping the boat.

As for my interest in Merc 90's, there's nothing wrong with my 115's, as I'm sure you could tell. But I have a looming problem in 2006, with all these heavy weight mid-range engines now on the market. I either have to decide to go long term with the pre-mix in-line 6's, or find new Merc 90's (same weight as the current 115's) for 2004 or 2005 before they discontinue them. The lightweight Merc Four stroke 60's would work, but I'd be badly underpowered, the equivalent of cruising the boat in 2nd gear. I'd really like to get a pair of the new Optimax 90's, which they say idle as quietly as the 90 4-stroke, but the 375# weight is too much for the 18 in twin configuration.

posted 11-02-2003 02:30 PM ET (US)            

The boat is currently listed on the marketplace forum.

Thank you for all of your help and insight.

posted 11-02-2003 04:44 PM ET (US)            

Sorry - did not answer your question:

The mechanic did not say - he really did not pursue the matter further (at my behest) after he discovered the scored cylinder - he simply stopped right there and awaited my instructions.

I don't believe it was the VRO system, as the engine appeared to continue using oil at a "normal" rate (if you recall, the sputtering problem began during the North Channel trip, so I am afraid that it may have been a problem for "all this time").

The real difficulty I've had over the last two days is researching costs for all of my options. You hit the nail on the head with the fact that "estimated time of ownership" is the determining factor. I was really hoping to use the 15 for another season at the most while I searched for a replacement (18 - 22 foot Outrage), so that I could continue the rendezvous-type activity that I really got a taste of this season.

There are a lot of things about this situation that have been really frustrating for me, but I am sure that the sellers remorse I will feel after the little boat is gone will be the worst...at least until a replacement is found.

posted 01-06-2004 06:25 PM ET (US)            

Since no one made any reasonable offers on the 15, I have decided to pursue repairs myself and keep the boat (there is no way I was going to part with her for 2,500 bucks).

This means I will probably keep this boat at least for the next two years, and perhaps indefinitely.

Repairs are commencing this week, and for those of you who are keeping track, I will post ballpark figures for each repair in case you have the unfortunate occasion to need the information for similar repairs to your engine.

I spoke with the head mechanic on Saturday and he blamed the VRO2 oil pump. Even though this was a second generation pump, he said they still had problems with the alcohol content in many fuels (this is especially prevalent in the Midwest, where fuel is often 10 percent or more Ethanol). The newest pumps (after about 1998) are supposedly impervious to this sort of failure and are much better.

I am converting to a traditional pump and will now need to mix my oil in with the gas (*if anyone has a link to a conversion chart that is online, please make a link to it. Thanks!). This repair also removes the need for the warning horn, as that was part of the VRO2 system.

So! Repairs are underway and my checkbook is about to withstand the onslaught of repairs, however due to the time of year, I will benefit from a 15% discount, though I imagine that will not be much consolation to the folks down at the Credit Union who will no longer have use of my money.

C'est la vie!

More to come...I'll keep you informed.

posted 01-07-2004 05:18 PM ET (US)            

Try looking at www.boatmotors.com/motorparts/index.cgi

I think I saw $1031 for rebuilt powerhead, havent done any busness with them but II've heard that they do good work.
Good Luck

posted 01-15-2004 04:13 PM ET (US)            

Just FYI - rate quoted for overhaul includes water pump change and rebuild of all three carbs. In the mechanics words "this is to protect our work against claims." Kudos to them.

So, in my estimation, this is like practically getting a new engine.

posted 03-06-2004 11:06 PM ET (US)            

Just picked up the boat.

90 Day warranty for all work.

Here's what they did:
Reconditioned 2 propellers
Replaced the Skeg
Replaced cracked ignition coil
Replaced water pump/impeller
Replaced Fuel Pump
Rebuilt all three carbs
Rebuilt the entire powerhead (new pistons, new cylinder sleaves and new rods.
New thermostat

Things look great. Was a bit chilly today (35 degrees) so I did not take the boat out for a trial basis, but I'll have to run the break in coming up sometime soon.

Dave

posted 03-20-2004 09:32 PM ET (US)            

Finally got the repaired propeller today (there was a delay...don't ask).

Anyway, was able to put the first 2 hours on the engine at double oil.

Rain this morning...calm window of 3-4 hours of sunshine and low 50's. Got the boat onto the big lake.

By the time I was back at the ramp, there were whitecaps on the river...wind really picked up.. blown around the highway on the way back to Chicago this evening. Snow forecasted for tomorrow morning.

Welcome spring.

Motor ran excellent, and I am very happy so far (very smokey due to double oil).

I now have 8 screw holes from VRO tank and clips for VRO line. Was thinking Marine Tex for a fix?

Advice to the contrary is welcome, otherwise I'm gonna go ahead next weekend with that fix.

Thanks for all the advice.