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Author Topic:   Winterizing EFI 4-stroke Outboards

Disco Stu posted 11-03-2003 12:17 PM ET (US)
I am winterizing my Suzuki DF70 outboard. The process is simmilar to what I went through with my old carburetor engine, only I am spraying fogging oil into the air intake vent instead of the carbs.
The manual says to spray the fogging oil until the engine starts to smoke, and then immediately shut it off.
I tried that, but the engine didn't smoke, though it did start to idle roughly for just a second. In the end I was left with a frothy fogging oil foam oozing out of the air intake. I was using standard issue West Marine Fogging spray, but it seemed that there wasn't enough suction to draw the foam into the engine. I know several of you have simmilar engines and I am wondering if you could lend me some advice as to what went wrong.
Thanks.
JBCornwell posted 11-03-2003 01:26 PM ET (US)
Not on a bet would I spray that stuff into an EFI 4 stroke.
Red sky at night. . .
JB
Bigshot posted 11-03-2003 01:38 PM ET (US)
Don't need to fog like a 2 stroke. The purpose in a 2 stroke is to coat the crank, etc with oil for winter storage. 4 strokes are in oil to begin with. Run engine to clear out that snot. Remove the plugs and spray some fogging oil in the plug holes. Turn over a couple times but don't run it and install plugs again. This is what I used to do to my lawn mowers up north.
David Jenkins posted 11-03-2003 01:38 PM ET (US)
JB, If you lived in a cold climate, would you do anything to winterize your engine? I have the same engine but I bought mine second hand and it did not come with a manual. Thanks.;
JBCornwell posted 11-03-2003 03:28 PM ET (US)
Hi, David.
I think I might do as Bigshot suggests, but nothing more. Four stroke internals stay pretty well oiled compared to 2 strokes.
Red sky at night. . .
JB
Bigshot posted 11-03-2003 04:04 PM ET (US)
Don't forget to change the lower unit oil and grease all the fittings, etc.
David Jenkins posted 11-03-2003 04:22 PM ET (US)
I have changed that lower unit oil and the main oil, but I don't know a thing about greasing the fittings. How many fittings are there?
DaveNJ posted 11-04-2003 06:42 AM ET (US)
David -
Before you do anything else, buy a shop manual for your motor.
Dave
JBCornwell posted 11-04-2003 07:49 AM ET (US)
Suzuki pn# 99500-99E02-01E.
Red sky at night. . .
JB
jimh posted 11-04-2003 09:40 AM ET (US)
It is good advice and quite prudent to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer of the engine when performing winterizing procedures.
A copy of a manual only costs $20-$50, while a new engine cost at least one hundred times that much or more.
Lack of proper winterization can lead to rusting of internal components which can in turn lead to shortened engine life.
In fogging conventional two-stroke engines, I have noticed that it often takes twenty seconds or more after introducing the fogging oil into the carburetors before the engine will begin to produce smoke in the exhaust.
Tom W Clark posted 11-04-2003 10:58 AM ET (US)
This thread begs the question: "What does the owner's manual say to do?"
At least three contributors own the motor in question. Surely one of you actually received an owner's manual when the motor was purchased, no?
I’m truly just curious.
Bigshot posted 11-04-2003 11:31 AM ET (US)
I have one and a shop manual. He states that the owners manual told him to do what he did but it did not work. I dn't really worry about it being in FL.
How does everyone winterize their cars?
Ya don't?.....the DF70 is a Samurai engine on a pole with EFI, I would not sweat it.
jimh posted 11-05-2003 08:36 AM ET (US)
Nick's comment about the intended purpose of winterizing (to provide 2-stroke engines with a coat of oil on their crankcase and connecting rods) is a very good observation. I have not seen that mentioned explicitly before.
His observation that a 4-stroke engine will have good lubrication in this area is also a good point.
If a 4-stroke engine is going to be in lay up for a while, it is good advice to change the lubricating oil in the oil sump. Oil which has been in use for some time will be contaminated and may not provide as much corrosion protection. Potential contaminants include water, gasoline, and combustion by-products.
Tom2697 posted 11-05-2003 02:51 PM ET (US)
It is extremely important to get the water out of the motor. If it freezes, bye-bye engine. Tilt the engine up and down a few times until no more water runs out. I don't know of any other methods. I would not use compressed air in any fashion.

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Author	Topic: Winterizing EFI 4-stroke Outboards
Disco Stu	posted 11-03-2003 12:17 PM ET (US) I am winterizing my Suzuki DF70 outboard. The process is simmilar to what I went through with my old carburetor engine, only I am spraying fogging oil into the air intake vent instead of the carbs. The manual says to spray the fogging oil until the engine starts to smoke, and then immediately shut it off. I tried that, but the engine didn't smoke, though it did start to idle roughly for just a second. In the end I was left with a frothy fogging oil foam oozing out of the air intake. I was using standard issue West Marine Fogging spray, but it seemed that there wasn't enough suction to draw the foam into the engine. I know several of you have simmilar engines and I am wondering if you could lend me some advice as to what went wrong. Thanks.
JBCornwell	posted 11-03-2003 01:26 PM ET (US) Not on a bet would I spray that stuff into an EFI 4 stroke. Red sky at night. . . JB
Bigshot	posted 11-03-2003 01:38 PM ET (US) Don't need to fog like a 2 stroke. The purpose in a 2 stroke is to coat the crank, etc with oil for winter storage. 4 strokes are in oil to begin with. Run engine to clear out that snot. Remove the plugs and spray some fogging oil in the plug holes. Turn over a couple times but don't run it and install plugs again. This is what I used to do to my lawn mowers up north.
David Jenkins	posted 11-03-2003 01:38 PM ET (US) JB, If you lived in a cold climate, would you do anything to winterize your engine? I have the same engine but I bought mine second hand and it did not come with a manual. Thanks.;
JBCornwell	posted 11-03-2003 03:28 PM ET (US) Hi, David. I think I might do as Bigshot suggests, but nothing more. Four stroke internals stay pretty well oiled compared to 2 strokes. Red sky at night. . . JB
Bigshot	posted 11-03-2003 04:04 PM ET (US) Don't forget to change the lower unit oil and grease all the fittings, etc.
David Jenkins	posted 11-03-2003 04:22 PM ET (US) I have changed that lower unit oil and the main oil, but I don't know a thing about greasing the fittings. How many fittings are there?
DaveNJ	posted 11-04-2003 06:42 AM ET (US) David - Before you do anything else, buy a shop manual for your motor. Dave
JBCornwell	posted 11-04-2003 07:49 AM ET (US) Suzuki pn# 99500-99E02-01E. Red sky at night. . . JB
jimh	posted 11-04-2003 09:40 AM ET (US) It is good advice and quite prudent to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer of the engine when performing winterizing procedures. A copy of a manual only costs $20-$50, while a new engine cost at least one hundred times that much or more. Lack of proper winterization can lead to rusting of internal components which can in turn lead to shortened engine life. In fogging conventional two-stroke engines, I have noticed that it often takes twenty seconds or more after introducing the fogging oil into the carburetors before the engine will begin to produce smoke in the exhaust.
Tom W Clark	posted 11-04-2003 10:58 AM ET (US) This thread begs the question: "What does the owner's manual say to do?" At least three contributors own the motor in question. Surely one of you actually received an owner's manual when the motor was purchased, no? I’m truly just curious.
Bigshot	posted 11-04-2003 11:31 AM ET (US) I have one and a shop manual. He states that the owners manual told him to do what he did but it did not work. I dn't really worry about it being in FL. How does everyone winterize their cars? Ya don't?.....the DF70 is a Samurai engine on a pole with EFI, I would not sweat it.
jimh	posted 11-05-2003 08:36 AM ET (US) Nick's comment about the intended purpose of winterizing (to provide 2-stroke engines with a coat of oil on their crankcase and connecting rods) is a very good observation. I have not seen that mentioned explicitly before. His observation that a 4-stroke engine will have good lubrication in this area is also a good point. If a 4-stroke engine is going to be in lay up for a while, it is good advice to change the lubricating oil in the oil sump. Oil which has been in use for some time will be contaminated and may not provide as much corrosion protection. Potential contaminants include water, gasoline, and combustion by-products.
Tom2697	posted 11-05-2003 02:51 PM ET (US) It is extremely important to get the water out of the motor. If it freezes, bye-bye engine. Tilt the engine up and down a few times until no more water runs out. I don't know of any other methods. I would not use compressed air in any fashion.