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Author Topic:   Yamaha 200 Power Head Removal
kurtgru posted 11-08-2003 03:34 PM ET (US)   Profile for kurtgru   Send Email to kurtgru  
The 1987 20’ Outrage that I am in the process of fixing up has a 1986 Yamaha 200 on it. Unfortunately, the shift shaft on it is almost completely rusted through. I am told it is a common problem, but it can be a real headache to repair as it can be difficult to remove the power head on these older Yamahas. I have made some progress and was able to remove 5 of the 8 bolts holding it on. Despite using lots of heat in my attempt to remove them, I broke three bolts off right at the head of the bolt. Since these are now broken off, I don’t believe they are still holding anything, but the power head still doesn’t want to come off. I assume it is just the power head gasket that is still holding it on. The bolts that broke are really long and I am afraid that these may preclude me from being able to rock the power head back and forth to break it free. I am pretty confident that if I can get the power head removed, I will still be able to get the bolts out. Looks like I have my winter project. Any suggestions?



Steve Leone posted 11-11-2003 11:40 AM ET (US)     Profile for Steve Leone  Send Email to Steve Leone     
You are in for some fun and games. I did the same job on a 1988 V-6 200hp Yamaha. The trouble is that the bolts are too narrow and long. They immediatly get siezed as soon as the Yamaha Product is dipped into salt water. The factory should have used Permatex or at least some good grease or cheeze whiz BEFORE they installed those powerhead bolts. The shift sahaft rot is a common ailment for pre 1990 Yamaha V-6`s. The replacement part is stainless. Here is my recipe for repairing your woe: First you will need to get a good 1/2 in drill. You will also need some various new carbide drill bits. Start with a 3/16th pilot, then to a 5/16, then to a 3/8. You will need to drill the bolts 1/2in from where the powerhead seperates. You are NOT trying to drill the bolts from the botom. Rather you drill them through the aluminum and through the bolts at a right angle. You may have to drill a few access holes in the lower outboard pan. You may also need a drill bit extention for a couple of the holes. This can be purchased at a good tool outlet. Once you have drilled through all of the bolts the powerhead can be removed. You will need to clean the remaing stubs on the powerhead real good with and electric wire wheel. You will need to heat up around these stubs with a good propane torch and remove them with a vice grip. Working back and forth is the solution. Now the fun part: To get the remaing bolt out of the intermediate (mid section) you will need to be patient. You need to continue the drilling process right down the remaining vertical length of the bolt. The holes should be at 1 1/2in intervals. Once you have performed this tedious operation you can heat and punch the reamains fron the top. You will need a good long punch to do so. An old stainless small horsepower (4hp Johnson) driveshaft is ideal. You will have to whack it down a bit but it makes an excellent driving punch. Good Luck and do not be in a hurry. You can`t rush sucess. Steve
kurtgru posted 11-11-2003 02:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for kurtgru  Send Email to kurtgru     
Steve -

Thanks for the info. I am in the process of pulling the engine off the boat so I can work on it over the winter. Hopefully I can have the boat ready for spring.


frank_king posted 11-11-2003 09:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for frank_king  Send Email to frank_king     
i have seen that the carbs and reed plate removed and pull the shift shaft up and out.

has anyone else seen this

Steve Leone posted 11-13-2003 12:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for Steve Leone  Send Email to Steve Leone     
Not on that Yamaha 200. It is impossible to split it without removing the powerhead. Some are friendly like that though. I had a buddy re-piston an outboard one time without removing the powerhead. The brand escapes me though. Most Marine Diesels have a window in the side of the block. You can remove a plate, rotate the crank, pull the wrist pin, remove the old piston, unpin the cylynder wall sleeve, pull it out and drop a new sleeve, piston, and rings in lickety split. Now theres a good design!!!
frank_king posted 11-13-2003 08:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for frank_king  Send Email to frank_king     
i didn't mean to split the block, i mean to take out off the reed plate.

i must have my wires crossed about what the guy removed/installed.

i have an 89 200 yamaha on my outrage i am going to work tomorrow and inspect.

i have seen the piston replaced with out the powerhead removed on a mercury 200. the problem was getting the rodcap out through the front of the intake. but it was done

Steve Leone posted 11-14-2003 12:18 AM ET (US)     Profile for Steve Leone  Send Email to Steve Leone     
I was talking about removing the reed block. It is impossible to do without removing the powerhead on that model.
frank_king posted 11-16-2003 09:40 AM ET (US)     Profile for frank_king  Send Email to frank_king     
okay, thanks for clearing that up
dfmcintyre posted 11-16-2003 05:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for dfmcintyre  Send Email to dfmcintyre     
Steve -

I'm reading this with interest, as I've got a 1999 Salt Water Series 200 Yamaha. Been a great motor so far, (aside from a surging problem while on plane....the rpm can vary 3/400 rpms without touching the throttle) and I want to keep it that way.

Anyways, I'm planning on trailering it down to the Keys this coming April, and wonder if you could share some insight on what I should protect / grease that I might normally miss, as she's only been used in fresh water. Already know about flushing the motor and trailer down.

Thanks - Don

kurtgru posted 11-16-2003 06:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for kurtgru  Send Email to kurtgru     
I was able to remove the engine today. Removing the Seastar hydraulic steering was a real bear. Doesn’t look like the previous owner ever greased anything. The manufacturer recommends removing many of the components on the outboard for greasing annually – I found out why… In addition, the bolts holding the outboard on where frozen to the engine bracket. I didn’t want to heat them that close to the transom so I used a hammer and punch. With a little coercing, they finally loosened up. I just bought a good set of drill bits and I’m hoping to tackle the power head removal next weekend. I have the outboard sitting on a wooden outboard stand I built last weekend and have attached a chain hoist to the power head. I will keep everyone posted with my progress.

Don – with your newer saltwater series outboard, you shouldn’t run into all of the problems that I am having. These problems were quite common on the 80’s vintage Yamaha’s, but they corrected it in the early 90’s.


frank_king posted 11-16-2003 09:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for frank_king  Send Email to frank_king     
i have worked on a FEW yamaha's, we have a guy that works on yamahas in our shop, so i stick to mercs

when i've seen surging problems the first thing the yamaha man does is change the fuel pump diaphrams (sp)?

what is going on is the fuel pumps are not keeping up with the fuel demand.

steve, anything you seen????


Steve Leone posted 11-17-2003 01:57 AM ET (US)     Profile for Steve Leone  Send Email to Steve Leone     
First off, I believe the Saltwater series Yamaha is a bit more forgiving in that element. If you would like to dress it out though you can perform a few preventive measures to stave off the drill and torch. First you can grease all of your zircs. Refer to a shop manual for the locations. If you have mechanical steering clean and re-grease the steering rod, liberally. Mercury puts out some wonderfull grease for this. Yamaha uses very long narrow main bolts to hold the power head on. If you can, remove the shroud that hides the bolts, remove them and goop them real good. Use Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket. Tighten them back up to torque. Now if you EVER need to take them out you will be able to get them out. If you want to protect your powerhead under the hood you need to put a "skin" on it. Corrosion X is perfect for this. It comes in a spray can and can be applied directly to the whole exterior of the engine. This stuff does not go away so easy as other corrosion inhibitors. I like it better than the any of the Franchise equivalents. It is somewhat sticky. It will keep the salt and corrosion from getting under your paint on the motor (agin, under the hood). It also keeps the insulation on the electrical wiring "alive". You can use this product once a year with gratifying results. Replace the zincs when they get worn. Do not grease the bolts that hold these zincs on. Do not paint over the zincs. Zincs (annodes) are sacraficial and are supposed to corrode (better them than your outboard). Use fresh gas and keep your fuel lines in good shape. A fuel/water seperating filter assembly is a must when running from an inboard "fixed" tank.
Steve Leone posted 11-17-2003 01:59 AM ET (US)     Profile for Steve Leone  Send Email to Steve Leone     
Frank, the surging could be the fuel pump(s) or may be the normal surging of the waves. Peticularly if this happens in a following sea. Or it could be a fuel restriction somewhere.
dfmcintyre posted 11-17-2003 06:57 AM ET (US)     Profile for dfmcintyre  Send Email to dfmcintyre     
Steve & Frank -

Thanks for the info and thoughts on the surging. To expand a little on the surging (I should have in the first post), I'll set the throttle, flat water, at say.... 2700rpm. After a while, the rpm will drop off to 2500, then come back up to 2700 and go beyond to around 2900 then back and start over again.

About a 400 rpm "cycle".



Bigshot posted 11-17-2003 01:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
Don....just about all engines will do that under say 3300-3500. They are not in their 'powerband' and do not really like to run there....just my experience.
Steve Leone posted 11-17-2003 11:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for Steve Leone  Send Email to Steve Leone     
Big is right. I did not think of that. It is a normal action in that rpm range. Surging can sometimes be caused by unseen tidal activity also. Here in SF you can get caught in a whirlpool type tidal movement and just seem to sit there at full thrttle. Ah, the dynamics. Wonderfull, wild ocean.

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