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Suggestions on Stainless Steel Prop finish
|Author||Topic: Suggestions on Stainless Steel Prop finish|
posted 11-12-2003 06:33 PM ET (US)
I have stainless steel props on my twin yamaha 130s. The original black finish was worn off and the props were getting rusty. I had them painted black and it started peeling and chipping off. They really look bad now. I am thinking of having them sandblasted, polished and then clear coated. Is this a good idea? Do you recommend a special prop shop to send them to. The local shop wants $80 per prop to do this.
posted 11-12-2003 07:23 PM ET (US)
Jack - I would take them to AirMarine, on Central Ave across
the street from Midway Airport. These guys are the resident experts on props. Whether they will be able to properly re-coat the Yamaha SS props, I don't know. Isn't it a teflon coating, like a frying pan has?
I have NEVER been able to figure out why OMC and Yamaha coated their standard line of SS props. Mercury has never done this. I'm sure that Airmarine can simply buff them up for you if desired. No clearcoat should be used.
Ask for Jerry. He's the owner.
posted 11-12-2003 07:51 PM ET (US)
One other (somewhat radical) view on a SS prop finish I picked up from a close friend, whaler owner and fellow poster, Walt Steffens:
Prep and spray them flat black. The reduction in performance would be minimal (if any at all), and you gain some serious advantages in theft reduction. SS props are a much higher theft item.
S3 - stealth stainless steel
posted 11-13-2003 08:46 AM ET (US)
FWIY: I was told by a dealer that Yamaha coated their SS props with black was to help deter theft, as shiny SS props advertise themselves....
posted 11-13-2003 10:42 AM ET (US)
I'm in on the anti-theft parade! Mine are sprayed black for that very reason.
posted 11-13-2003 10:48 AM ET (US)
It really depends on the prop. I have stripped oMC props to find out they rust without paint. I would hate to see a $80 polish job go to crap in a month.
posted 11-16-2003 08:20 PM ET (US)
Thanks for your help guys. I am looking forward to the off season to take care of the minor repairs that I did not have time for this summer. This was my first season for this rig. It's nice to have a full season of use under my belt. I have really enjoyed 22 Outrage this year.
I will call Jerry at air marine next week.
posted 11-16-2003 08:53 PM ET (US)
If i'm not mistaken, the painted props have a rougher finish & the teflon pain fills in the surface to make them smooth.
I don't think they can buff out the painted type prop & get the mirror type finish of the ones that already come shiny.
Real hard stainless is really tough & it's gonna be tough to get the swirls out of the blades & make them look like you want them to.
OMC Bombardier performance props come shiny from the factory but I think the painted props are a lesser grade [ including Yamaha stock props ] & wont come out as you want it to.
posted 11-16-2003 10:50 PM ET (US)
That's what I have also understood - there may be a theft deterrent factor in there, but it is secondary to less polished and less expensive stainless steel props.
posted 11-21-2003 03:12 PM ET (US)
I doubt clear coat will stay on any better than the factory black coating. I have polished Merc Mirages, but they will still get rust pitting if put up wet and untreated. After a freshwater flush, I just spray them with WD-40. No more rust, they look great, at least until I run them through mud and have to buff them out again.
posted 11-23-2003 12:16 AM ET (US)
Don't beat a dead horse.
Don't waste your time on powder coat, teflon, clear coat etc. Paint is sufficient, what ever the color. Flat black seems to be generaic, and you can't tell an aluminum from a SS, unless you are sufficiently smart to know that at least in OMC's case, LH props were not available in aluminum.
Why not powder, teflon, or clear? It will just boil off the blades under normal use. This is because of high and low pressure areas on the blades as they are similar to an air foil. For proof look at your existing painted prop. You will notice that the coating failure, other than impact is not on the leading edge of the blade but the trailing side of the blade (low pressure) usually around the hub to blade joint.
As for rusting of a SS prop, that is the result of the alloy being a 400 series SS not a 300 series. 400 series SS has more iron, is cheeper and therefore will rust; and is not a finish related factor.
|Tom W Clark||
posted 11-24-2003 11:32 AM ET (US)
I almost never bothered to repaint my props. They always ended up loosing their finish, but so what? I agree with Walt, just leave them be.
I used to use the OMC SSTII props which were supposedly Teflon coated. I think it was really just a marketing ploy. The Teflon was supposed to be slippery and make the props faster, but come on, how much difference does it really make? None would be my guess, especially after it wore off.
Yes, the painted or teflon coated props do not have as smooth a finish. I think it was just less money to manufacture a prop and them paint it instead of polishing it.
My props rusted just a wee bit. They really looked more like thy were slightly stained, that's all. This is in the Pacific Northwest around nothing but salt water. The tiny bit of "rust" was no big deal.
As to differentiating a black aluminum prop from a black stainless steel prop, just grab it and spin it. The difference in weight between the two materials is significant and it is very apparent which is which.
If you do want to repaint a prop, just use flat black spray paint in a can like Rustoleum. It's almost impossible to do a bad paint job and it does look good for a while. Ever notice how well the supposedly slippery Teflon finish will hold paint? Makes you wonder...
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